Coupler swaps

[siemer]

I'm trying to resurrect a supply of old Bachmann HO rolling stock but am having trouble converting the old, hook-style couplers to the knuckle type.  I think I have the right knuckles but they won't bolt to the cars.  Am I missing something?

[rustyrails]

First, you need a Kadee height guage.

Second, I assume that we're talking about replacing horn-hook (aka X2f or NMRA) couplers that are mounted directly to the trucks.  If that is the case, you need to acquire some Kadee 20 series couplers.  These include an adaptor that will allow you to install the coupler into the truck mount.  There are several styles (different shank lengths and offsets).  The #28 is a medium, center-set shank.  I actually used one of these once on a loco tender and, much to my surprise, it worked very well.

Third, if you want to ditch the truck mounted couplers and replace them with body mounts, the process is a little more complicated but not much.  You need a package of Kadee #5's, or the coupler of your choice as long as draft gear boxes are included.  Cut the coupler mount off the trucks.  Use the Kadee height gauge to measure the height of the bottom of the car floor.  You may have to make a shim to lower the coupler mounting pad to get the correct height.  Mark the center line of the car.  Use the lid of the coupler box as a template and mark the location of the mounting hole on the center line.  Drill a #50 hole and tap for a 2-56 screw.  Kadee sells drill and tap sets as well as metal and nylon 2-56 screws.  Shoot a poof of powered graphite into the draft gear box.

This sounds much more complicated than it really is.  Don't be afraid to try it.  Hope this helps.

Rusty 

[Yampa Bob]

Instructions for upgrading Talgo trucks.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,4917.0.html

Suggest members put the above thread (and other informative threads and  tutorials) in your favorites folder for reference, saves a lot of explanation.

Regards

[OkieRick]

Last year when I rediscovered the fun & joy & headache of HO modeling one of the first things I had my buddies do for me was resurect some 35 year old rolling stock by changing hook-horn couplers to Kadee knuckle couplers.  One of tool sets I had - a Dremmel and the Rotary Work Station - made drilling holes in steel bottomed cars a lot easier.  The Station is a holder for your Dremmel that positions it like a drill press.  The Dremmel is a high speed tool - I had grinding tips to make the holes - the Dremmel turns to many RPMs for a drill.  We tried the Craftsman CS3 cordless drill & Kadee bit but positioning the boxcars below the grinder & pulling the arm down was more accurate for the guys helping me.

                 

It's a nice tool for small work areas.  Check it out next trip to Lowes or Walmart.  It sells for $40 to $50.

Rick

[CNE Runner]

Definitely get rid of those Talgo trucks. Modeling in the late 19th century, I have to use (rehabilitate?) many older Bachmann, AHM, and Pocher cars...most of which have either X2F couplers or both X2F and Talgo trucks. A drill press is an essential tool for accuracy in this procedure. Harbor Freight has a nice one (from our good friends in China) that is designed to be placed on a bench and retails for $79.99 check it out at http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=drill+press and see what you think.

As I have said, in past posts, these cheaper old timers can be made into very nice rolling stock with some changes. Rick is correct in saying a Dremel (or die grinder) revolves too fast for this type of application (although Dremel does offer a variable-speed model that might fill the bill).

Ray

[jward]

while not exactly s coupler swap, the trucks on these cars are also something you should consider upgrading. most if not all have wheelsets that don't conform to nmra rp25 standards. they are often out of guage, sometimes out of round or other flaws. remember, these were cheaply made cars for casual train set use. you should definitely replace these wheelsets with something conforming to rp25. many manufacturers make these as aftermarket upgrades, and most have metal wheels. you can usually pop these into the existing truck sideframes, but sometimes you have to use a reaming tool on the trucks to get them to fit.

replacing the wheelsets only is especially helpful for those cars by tyco, and others that have the clip on trucks. it is a major job to convert those cars to the modern standard of screw on trucks.

[CNE Runner]

Good one Jeff...I had forgotten about the wheelsets. By the time you remove the Talgo coupler arrangement (usually by cutting the darn thing off), and install new wheels (metal of course), you might just as well can the old wheelsets and install new Kadee (or whatever) units...check the discounters for sales on these items.

Usually the old wheelsets are held in place with a huge plastic pin. After removal, I glue in its place a piece of dowel. This is drilled (via a drill press) for a 2-56 screw. Since you are screwing into wood, there is no reason to tap the hole. Now you have wheels that meet modern standards, are truly round, and are in gauge.

Ray

[Yampa Bob]

I use 3/16" and 1/8" styrene tubing to fill the bolster hole, no drilling required. (see my thread above) For replacement trucks/wheelsets I use these:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWN06&P=SM

The metal wheels roll great out of the package, seldom need reaming.

[CNE Runner]

Tubing...tubing...Bob, I never thought of that! The use of tubing would save a considerable amount of time - removing the need for centering and drilling. I usually check out my favorite discounters, and Micro Mark, for good prices on Kadee wheelsets (I prefer sprung bolsters); but I will check out the website you provided.

Once again Bob you have given me valuable advice....my prayer rug is again facing west.

Ray

[Yampa Bob]

There is more information about using the tubes in my thread. I have upgraded over 50 old cars.  The cars were freebies, I figure it was worth about $4 a car to upgrade them, even less if you modify the old trucks and add metal wheels.

Also, Mantua cars at $8 a pop make great fixer uppers. They are nicely detailed, even have window glazing. I bought 20 of them last year at $7.29 each, when the supply was better.

If the old trucks are too narrow for the new metal wheels, then I just replace with the Model Power sets. At first I tried spreading the journals, but didn't work, they either broke or would tend to tighten up again. For free rolling, the wheelsets need a tiny bit of side play.

I don't recommend filing off the axle points if the wheelset is too tight, doing so will increase rolling resistance. A properly tuned car should require only .07 to .1 ounce of pulling force.

In case you missed the link or tuned in late:
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,4917.0.html

[jward]

i reuse the trucks where possible. most of my talgo cars are actually my son's, and i replaced the wheels with surplus athearns, when i replaced the wheels on the athearn cars with metal ones from nwsl or jaybee. i tried kadees, but was unimpressed by the thin bendable axle.

i bought a truck reaming tool, which is a much better solution than spreading sideframes hoping things will work. the reamer tool actually will drill out the journals so that the new wheelsets fit, and roll free.