Convert hook and loop to knuckle coupler

[BestSnowman]

I have some passenger cars (hogwarts express) that I would like to convert to knuckle coupler as the engine  that is meant to pull it is in the shop for a while and I would like to be able to resume passenger service with one of my other engines.

It is using truck mounted couplers and there is a small screw that holds it onto the truck (not the greatest picture as the lighting I have to work with is terrible right now http://www.flickr.com/photos/93301102@N00/3450817843/in/set-72157616219386607/).

I found this: http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=474 but I'm entirely sure how it would mount on these trucks and at $20 I don't want to order one of these on a whim without knowing for sure it would work.

I also looked around the kadee sight but didn't know what I was looking for. I would certainly appreciate any advice any of you could share with me.


Also I only really need one replacement coupler (as the passenger cars can connect to each other via hook and loop)

[jward]

i am assuming that the hook and loop couplers on the hogwarts set are the same ones used on the thomas cars? if so, i don't think that the coupler you  linked to would do the job. however, you may be able to take a standard HO car and add a hook and loop coupler to one end of it. i don't have any of the hogwarts cars to look at but you mentioned they are truck mounted couplers. the thomas cars i have are all body mounts, and it would be difficult to add a knuckle coupler to one of these.

it would also appear that the coupler height on the hook and loop type couplers is not as critical as it is with knuckle couplers, so i would use a standard ho boxcar modified with one of these:
http://store.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=30

you will have to carefully cut off the original coupler mounting, and drill new screw holes for the hook and loop but with a little patience you could get it to work. we used cars like this with a horn hook on one end and a kadee on the other before knuckle couplers became standard. they come in handy when you need to mix your equipment

[BestSnowman]

I'd like to avoid an extra car if possible given its current length. If it isn't feasible to put a replacement coupler on one of these cars I'll just have to remove one of the passenger cars and add a baggage boxcar or something.

Thanks for the tip.

[rustyrails]

Cut the hook and loop off a truck.
Use a kadee coupler gauge to determine the correct height to body mount a kadee in its draft gear box.
Shim down from the car floor using pieces of styrene  (make a stack of pieces) until the shim just clears the Kadee gauge.
Position the draft gear box and mark the location of the center hole.
Drill a number 50 hole into the shim where you made the mark.
Tap that hole for a 2-56 screw (Kadee sells a drill and tap set)
Attach the coupler to the car with a 2-56 screw.
You're back in the passenger business.  Eventually you can replace all the original couplers.

[Jhanecker2]

To  BestSnowman :  Good Morning .   The Hook-loop coupler on the hogwart passenger  car are not the same as the hook and loop couplers of the "Thomas" line of cars .  That said  ,  they will  work .  The  Bachman    NEM  coupler  converter  works fine but only on European type cars that have the matching receivers .  Hogwarts Express Cars do not have matching receivers.   They worked fine on   Marklin's Hogwart Express  Cars but those are Made for  AC  operation  .   rustyrails is  right about the kadee conversion . I lucked out and  now have three hogwarts express  locos and tenders .  One is straight original for hogwarts express ,  one is modfied  for knuckle couplers  , and the third for
"Thomas" type cars .  It has been an adventure .  John  II

[bobwrgt]

I have several Hornby engines with hook and loop as well as Spencer. Trying to add hook and loop to American car is not easy.
You can take a Hook and loop car and remove the hook only. Glue a coupler box centered on the loop and you are off and running. Glue it above or below loop for correct heigth.

[BestSnowman]

I finally got the Hogwarts running again as a DC engine (ironically it runs a little bit better than when it came out of the box) and have just settled that it will never be DCC. Maybe if bachmann makes another hogwarts express for the next movie it will be DCC-Equiped or at least have the socket for much simpler upgrade... then again I would probably be a couple of the Thomas trains right now if I knew I wouldn't have to go through the hassle of wiring them up for DCC.

John,

Which set(s) are your hogwarts locos out of? It appears there was at least two. Mine is from the set that corresponds with the first movie. If one of yours is from a later set I'm wondering if the build quality is better. This one just seems pretty cheaply made and as a result isn't the best runner, I'm wondering if I should bother keeping an eye out for a newer model on ebay.

bobwrgt,

Since I got the engine running I don't need it right away but I will probably try your trick as I'm not a huge fan of the hook/loop. I haven't measured it out yet but at a glance it appears the loop is the same height as the knuckles meaning it would be too low are too high... but I haven't had a chance to measure it out yet.

[Jhanecker2]

To  Best Snowman :  to the best of my knowledge  all the hogwart express trains  were from the original  movie . The only variation I could see was the addition of the flying Anglia Auto  and  the train  9- 3/4  track number as additions to the first set . I doubt the second set was upgraded the components looked to be the same . I was looking for more cars to add to the train when I came upon the Maerklin additions to their Hogwart's
Express Trains and bought them.  I found they were designed for AC operation . They were a different Shade of red , had their own form of horn and loop couplers , and metal wheels .  The wheels were changed to  DC type  42" wheels , the couplers were swapped out to Bachmann   NEM  conversion couplers , that part was easy due to the receivers on the cars . I left the cars the original shade of red , and still haven't figured out how to diassemble the car to look at the internal electrics. The cars do have a full interior .  When I get a chance to set up some tracks , I will have to see how well the conversion went . Did I get a functional unit or not  ?