Making a Jig for Cleaning Locomotive Wheels

[BradKT]

I am clear on the need to keep the wheels of a locomotive clean, but my question is what is the best, most efficient and easiest way to do it?

One of the ideas that I have in mind is to make a jig as follows:

1.  Take a 4" wide piece of wood (14"-16" long x 1" thick) and, using  my table saw, cut two grooves with the same width between them as the rails of an HO track about 1/4" deep (this would be for the wheels to fit om and the wood surface would be covered by a piece of cloth like an old white T-shirt).

2,  Using two wires with insulated alligator clips on either end, connect one end of each wire to the rails of the track and the other end to the posts of the power trucks.  I would then be able to adjust the speed at which the wheels turn by using the transformer.

3.  Fit the engine frame (with the motor and wheels into the grooves that I cut) that would have the cloth over them, with a little alcohol or some other clearing fluid that would remove any gum deposits on both the edges and the inside of the wheels.

4.  In theory, this would seem that it would work and should be able to clean the wheels really well.  I wouldn't be scratching the locomotive wheels and I got the idea of using a piece of an old T-shirt from a Model Railroading article.

It would probably take about one hour or less to make this jig. 

Another thought that I had would be to do the same as above, but, in addition, on one end, glue down  4" length of track that I would connect the wires with alligator clips to (the other ends being connected to the track rails).  The track section (not E-Z track, probably Atlas) would be aligned with the grooves cut into the wood so I could just press the power truck wheels on one end of the engine against that piece of track and get the electrical power to turn the wheels on the other end (that would be resting in the grooves).

The only reason that I am a little hesitant about the second approach is wouldn't the power truck wheels that are being pressed against the piece of track on the jig (which is connected by the alligator clips to the main track for power) be turning also and wouldn't there be a possible problem with  the gears if I pressed them against that piece of track in a way that restricted the ability of those power truck wheels to turn?

Am I on the right track here (if you'll pardon the pun) or does anyone have any better suggestions)?  If you have any comments, suggestions or alternative ideas, they would be welcome.

[Yampa Bob]

Hi Brad
Everyone has their preferred method of cleaning drivers, mine is simple but very efficient. I support the loco upside down in a foam cradle, then jumper from a DC controller directly to the motor wires or drivers with what I call a "power stick".  I fastened two lengths of .015 phosphor bronze wire to a wood stick, with wires to the controller.

The wires can be bent in or out as needed. On a Bachmann steamer, the .015 wires fit into the connector plug at the rear of the loco.  For diesels I just hold the wires against a set of drivers with one hand and clean with the other.

With the motor running full throttle, I use Q-tips dipped in alcohol to clean the wheels. If there are any nicks or burrs on the wheels, I use a fine emery board or file to smooth them out, then polish with 1 micron cerium oxide film. I also clean/polish the backs of the drivers for better contact with the wipers.

It's very handy to check driver/pickups, lubricating, adjusting and general tuneups, and there is no strain on the motor or drive gears as with conventional cleaning methods. It's also very convenient as I can do the job comfortably at my bench under a bright light. 

[BradKT]

After considering your reply, and after what I read in Model Railroading Magazine, I found something much easier to do.  It was very simple and worked beautifully.

Just lightly spray some WD-40 onto a paper towel and lay it across a straight track near a rerailer.  Put your locomotive on the track and you can just run it half way right upon the paper towel (make sure the coupler clears the paper towel...hold own one side and just set something on the other side [like another engine] to hold it down) and clean the wheels by just holding the engine in place and powering the wheels by using the transformer.  The paper towel conforms to the shape of the track and cleans the part of the wheel that comes in contact with the inside of the rail as well.  WD-40 is great for dissolving dirt and grime.  I was really surprised at how much dirt and gum came off and how clean it got the wheels.  It's great for older engines whose wheels haven't been cleaned for a while.

You wipe off the WD-40 by just turning the paper towel and doing the same thing on a dry spot.  I found that when I wiped off the wheels like this, even more dirt that had been dissolved by the WD-40 came off. 

Turn the engine around and repeat the procedure for the other set of wheels. 

All of my engines perked up an ran better.

Simple and inexpensive.  You can do the same thing with alcohol or some other cleaner.

[jsmvmd]

Dear Bob,

Nice idea.  I will have to try it.  Do you wear shades when your wheels are done and squeaky clean?

Too,  I thought WD-40 was NOT compatible with plastic, and leaves a residue.  I seem to misremember other posts where Goo-Gone or similar was recommended.

Best Wishes,

Jack

[rustyrails]

Hey, Guys,
The paper towel method is the easiest I've ever found.  I use either alcohol or head cleaner (getting hard to find since cassette tape players have disappeared).  I  experienced a general decrease in track/wheel grime by getting rid of plastic wheels on rolling stock.  I'm not exactly sure why this is, but my supposition is that the plastic is naturally "oily" and attracts crud.  I've used mostly Kadee wheel sets for years,  but lately I've used some Proto wheels and am satisfied with them as well.

For you N-scalers, someone (?Kadee?) makes a loco wheel cleaning tool that looks sort of like an electric suede brush.  The metal bristles carry current to run the engine and while the wheels are turning the bristles scrape the junk off.  Nope, I never owned or tried one during my period of "N-sanity".   (LOL) 

Rusty

[James in FL]

When cleaning loco wheels and drivers, I use a foam cradle similar to Bob's.
I make it a good practice to remove the shell first.
I've used the Q-tip, 91% isopropyl method for decades.

As far as WD40, this is a quote from their website -
http://www.wd40.com/faqs/#q8

"What surfaces or materials are OK to use WD-40 on?
WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40."

WD-40 is an excellent loco wheel cleaner used as described by BradKT. It's also great for cleaning metal and plastic rolling stock wheels.

It works equally as well, as does Wahl clipper oil, for those who oil their track to retard corrosion.
When applied properly the track will be soon dry. The lubricant will penetrate into the micro sub-surface structure of the railhead stopping corrosion where it begins, in minute scratches, scuffs, pits, etc.
There is no need to remove the "residue".
The residue is what protects.
Just like the Wahl clipper oil, WD40 is not "conductive" oil.

I personally do not use WD40 to lubricate locomotive drives, as I find it too light, and prefer something a bit heavier for bearings/bushings. I find it's far to light for gears.
When first applied to a clean cloth it's hard to beat as a degreaser/cleaner/ corrosion inhibitor for wheels and track.

I am a Normal scaler and am somewhat familiar with the energized Brass brush cleaners.
Several manufacturers make them.
Some, down at the club, swear by them and use them religiously.
I don't own one.
I don't like the idea of a brass brush against a rubber traction tire.

When I clean the loco wheels in the method BradKT described, I substitute a used dryer "anti static sheet" (Bounce or Cling Free) for the paper towel.

[Jim Banner]

One advantage of cleaning wheels with the locomotive upright is that the crud and cleaning liquid go down onto the paper towel or cotton cloth (T-shirt.)  I sometimes clean wheels with the locomotive upside down if I happen to have the shell off for internal lubrication, but I use an open canvas cradle after damaging a locomotive by having packing foam drag against a flywheel.  This should never happen with a Bachmann split frame design, but (and this is a deep, dark secret that I hope you don't tell the Bach Man) I do sometimes work on locomotives that were not built by Bachmann.

I too like my locomotive wheels to be mirror shiny on the treads.  It improves traction and pickup, and helps shed dirt.  That is one of the reasons I oil my rails (very, very lightly.)  The other reason is that I hate cleaning tracks.

WD 40 should be fine for cleaning metal driving wheels, but you should probably keep it off your tracks.  It attacks styrene butadiene plastic ("clear styrene") and acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) which is what some H0 car wheels, and some of the plastic centers for metal rimmed locomotive wheels are made of.  Like other oils that are not guaranteed to be plastic compatible, the damage is not obvious after the first application or even the tenth application.  It might be ten years before your car wheels start feeling rubbery on the surface and you find them leaving sticky, black deposits faster than you can clean them up, or before your locomotive wheels start bending out of shape just from the weight of the locomotive.  Replacing the car wheels with metal or Delrin ones is an option but what do you do about the locomotive wheels?

Anybody know what plastic ties are made of?  I would sure hate to have any tracks go over gauge because the ties softened up.  I recently discovered a couple of lengths of flex track on my layout that have gone under gauge from the ties hardening up over the last quarter century.  Perhaps that would be a good place to use WD 40   

[James in FL]

Pray tell Jim,

Why in the world would you put oil on the wheel centers or the rail ties?

What is your need to do so?

I would suggest to you, to be careful with your application.

[Jim Banner]

Jim, I wouldn't put WD40 on my wheels, my ties, or any other place on my railroad.  I don't even allow it in the train rooms.  That part of my posting was cautionary to others.

I am sure you know that the normal way of applying WD40 is to spray it on, with or without an extension tube in the nozzle.  If one were to carry this over to model railroading from other usages of WD40, one might spray it liberally on the wheel treads to clean them, unaware of the possible long term harmful effects of the over spray.

Likewise the tracks.  Over the years, I have seen people use various non-lubricating contact cleaners in spray cans to clean track.  Spray it on, wipe it off, and the rails are clean, shiny and dry.  Works like a charm, as long as the spray doesn't blow the crud all over your carefully painted buildings.

I have also seen what happens when you pick up a can of contact cleaner with lubricator by mistake.  Spray it on, wipe it off, and the rails are clean, shiny and lightly oiled.  The ties, unfortunately, are well oiled, and all but impossible to clean, especially if they are ballasted.  But most control lubricants are plastics compatible, so the damage is usually only cosmetic.  With a spray cleaner/lubricator known to attack some plastics, I for one would not take a chance on it.  And especially I would not advise anyone to spray it anywhere near the railroad.

I suppose a person could spray some WD40 into a container and use it from there.  But that could mean WD40 in the air in a room littered with plastic buildings.  With the $$ and time investment I have in buildings, I wouldn't take a chance on it not attacking styrene when the manufacturer tells me that it damages a co-polymer of the same plastic.  For myself, I find it easier to use a cleaner that is available in unpressurized containers to start with. (Yeah, I know, WD40 is available as a liquid too, but not one hardware store or industrial supplier that I know of stocks it.)

Having said all that, it has recently been suggested to me that the major ingredient in WD40 is Stoddard's solvent, and that this solvent is the reason for the attack on certain plastics.  I don't know whether this is true or not.  I have used Stoddard's solvent for years to clean wheels and rails, but certainly not by spraying it on.  A few drops on a rag or Q-tip goes a long way in N and H0.  I use it in much larger quantities in restoring old Lionel and Marx locomotives, soaking metal parts in it for days, but that is another story.  And yes, it does attack ABS wheels, softening the surface of them, which while not confirming the presence of Stoddard's solvent in WD40, does not preclude it either.  Bottom line, Hunt's suggestion of using isopropyl alcohol is probably still the best.

Jim

Edit:  Stoddard's solvent is commonly sold as paint thinner and Varsol.

[BradKT]

I certainly can appreciate the caution of anyone who has a substantial investment in this hobby and for those who aren't comfortable with the idea of using WD-40, you can use alcohol or some other cleaning agent instead.  The only reason that I tried WD-40 was that it was specifically referenced in Model Railroading Magazine.  The paper towel wheel cleaning method (as opposed to making some kind of cradle or jig) was what I was really focusing on here.  The method appears to be simple, inexpensive and effective.  You are not spraying anything on your layout, nor are you saturating a paper towel.  All you are doing here is lightly spraying some on a paper towel which is laid across a track next to a rerailer, running your engine halfway up on it and using the transformer to power and clean the wheels.  The weight of the engine gives you the pressure against the paper towel to clean the wheels and the rail conforms the paper towel to the shape of the wheel which gives you the ability to effectively and completely clean that part of the wheel that comes in contact with both the top and inside of the rail. 

[pdlethbridge]

 Brad, I'm glad you clarified the use of wd-40. Ever so slightly dampening a paper towel is good. Getting it soaked and dripping is bad.

[BradKT]

That is also true of whatever cleaning agent you choose to use if you try this method.   If your cleaning agent of choice does not come in a spray container, I would recommend the use of a small spray bottle to apply your cleaning agent on the paper towel.   The paper towel does not need to be completely wet...nowhere near so...you just want to lightly coat the surface.  Spray it on about 1/3 of the surface of the paper towel going to the edge of one side of the paper towel.  This is the part of the paper towel that you are going to be running the engine up on. 

To dry off the wheels (or to wipe off the cleaning agent), either use another paper towel or just turn the one you are using to a dry spot and repeat the procedure.  I let the engine run for about 1 minute on the damp spot and about 20-30 seconds on the dry spot...moving the engine slightly every 5-10 seconds as the wheels turn.  If necessary, move the paper towel a little and then repeat the procedure 2-3 times.  After you finish, you will see a couple (or a series) of blackened tracks on your paper towel.  That's all the dirt that came off the wheels.  One paper towel can be used to clean the wheels of at least half a dozen engines.

I would also use a double or triple ply paper towel (like Bounty).  It is soft, strong and has impressions pressed into a pattern on the paper towel and the edges of the impressions of the pattern act like a series of soft scrub brushes against the surface of the wheels as they turn.

You can clean the wheels of 20-plus engines in an hour.

[CNE Runner]

I guess this subject has been covered quite well. I subscribe to the school that promotes the use of nothing on the rails (who wants to attract more dust anyway?). I never understood the reasons behind oiling track as there isn't any such thing as an oil that effectively conducts electricity. The conduction of electricity, through an oil, is a function of film thickness and applied force...and can be researched in most physics texts. To clean my locomotive wheels I use isopropanol and used dryer sheets. The dryer sheets have more abrasion than paper towels - are tougher - and, given the amount of laundry we generate...readily available.

I clean the metal wheels, on my fleet, once a year using isopropanol and Q-tips. During the cleaning phase I also check wheel and coupler clearances. All this information is kept on a 3x5" card for reference. Plastic wheels are banned from the N.D.& C. (do some reading in your high school physics book for the reason). Strangely, I have found that my track stays cleaner the more often I run my trains (another bonus to enjoy running trains more often).

Ray

[James in FL]

Hear, hear!
It appears that CNE Runner and I are of the same camp.

I subscribe to the school that promotes the use of nothing on the rails (who wants to attract more dust anyway?). I never understood the reasons behind oiling track as there isn't any such thing as an oil that effectively conducts electricity. The conduction of electricity, through an oil, is a function of film thickness and applied force...and can be researched in most physics texts.

Unfortunately, many are mislead by the "old school hats" dictating of how to properly model.
What is and isn't the "Right way".

I surmise Jim has never used WD-40 for model railroad application, yet he dismissed it as being something bad to do.

That's OK.

I also surmise, Jim models the way he knows, the tried and proven way through his personal experience, that works best for him in his personal application.

I am not in the camp of oiling tracks, however I have my test track out on my back screened porch. Living just a few miles of the gulf coast, it is subject to what many would term as extream conditions ( salt air, direct morning sunlight, moisture, rain mist,  etc.

So far WD-40 has proven excellent as a corrosion inhibitor on the railhead and on the wheel sets.

To anybody reading this;
Please do not take what either Jim or myself posts on this or any other forum as being gospel.

I am of the camp of trying it for yourself and then making your own personal decision if it works best in your own application.

Times change.

No doubt, Jim knows what he speaks,
but there are many other ways to get the same, or better, results using different means.

[Yampa Bob]

I live in a region of low humidity so corrosion is not a problem. My pre-operation tune-up of a new locomotive includes cleaning and polishing the drivers. Plastic wheels are not allowed on our layout.

After almost a year of frequent running on the current layout, the railheads are now polished to a mirror finish. As Ray mentioned, the more we run our trains, the cleaner everything stays.

I'm also a member of the "dry rail club", no oil, just an occasional wiping with a Scott shop towel and isopropyl alcohol to pick up any airborne particles that may settle on the rails. For our small layout, that takes about 15 minutes.