HO couplers

[pdlethbridge]

more info here about knuckle couplers in a pdf form
http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=a&id=2089

[Michigan Railfan]

Well, now I have a question. I read on another topic that you could'nt just drop in a Bachmann E-Z mate coupler into the same coupler box as the Horn Hook couplers. I have many cars and loco's with Horn Hook couplers, and I want to replace them. Anyone know anything about this, and what type of coupler I should use?

I changed all but 4 of my hook-horn cars to knuckle couplers using Scenemaster Couplers:

10 Pair
Walthers Part # 433-1427, p. 259 Walthers 2009 HO Scale Reference
HO scale, $7.98, currently in stock at Walthers

* Works with All Other Knuckle Couplers * Constructed of Tough Engineering Plastic * Magnetic Action * Easy Upgrade for Older Life-Like Train Set Cars

They're cheap and work.  Fish out your Hook-Horn & slip these in. 

luck-
Rick

Just incase those Scenemasters dont work, what kind of Kadee coupler could I use, #5?

[OkieRick]

I used the Scenemasters couplers on my old rolling stock that wasn't worth a truck & metal wheels and coupler update.  Some of these were also cheap plastic ebay stock that no doubt came with train sets.  I haven't had to buy any Kadee yet - the time is getting close though.  I need one coupler in a screw on box for the tender of my 2-10-2 Steam locomotive.

But if you do have quite a few hook-horn couplered cars and want to save them these are inexpensive and do work.  If your hook-horn has a plastic whisker holding it in these will work.  Magnets will uncouple them - I tried this on the first two box cars they were put on.


Luck-
Rick

[Yampa Bob]

Kadee #148 comes with snap together boxes.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNLF1&P=SM

If you can snip out the factory box and smooth the floor, position new box and coupler assembly, drill a hole with 1/16" or #50 bit, tap the hole 2-56 and install with a 1/4" long machine screw.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRTJ6&P=SM

Assembling the coupler and box before trying to install makes it a lot easier by hanging onto the coupler.

I buy my machine screws from Fastenal in 100 quantity, keep on hand 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 9/16".
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=28513

Check phone book for a regional outlet near you.

[Michigan Railfan]

Thanks for the replies. Since I'm only 12 years old, I don't know how to replace the coupler boxes and all that, so I guess I'll just use the Scenemaster.

[rallygsc]

Hello Everyone:

most of the newer bachmann trains that have the screw on covers for their couplers accept a kadee coupler, just like a few of the other board members stated.

as for rolling stock, bachmann 1998? and up , have screw on coupler covers, athearn cars have snap on covers, proto 1000 ( most of them ) have snap on covers,

where a lot of your older HO scale cars have a truck assembly where a horn hook coupler is mounted, kadee makes an adapter kit that works well if you don't want to chop up the trucks.

also if the rolling stock has plastic wheels, you will want to replace them in the near future, bachmann sells metal replacement wheels, as well as other companies, you jut have to remember 33" or 36", most of your freight cars use 33" while the passenger cars usually have 36".

IHC made a wierd knuckle coupler that works with horn hook and knuckle couplers, they work, but they are a pain to uncouple at times.

as for the bachmann e-z mate couplers, they are the same thing as mchenry couplers,  just make sure you get the ones with the springs on them, the ones without the springs are junk, they don't last long and have a bad habit of uncoupling when they go bad.

hope this helps
take care
George

[Michigan Railfan]

...as for rolling stock, bachmann 1998? and up , have screw on coupler covers, athearn cars have snap on covers, proto 1000 ( most of them ) have snap on covers,...

Yeah, I hate Athearns snap on. It always comes off on one of my boxcars.

[Guilford Guy]

Most athearn cars have the coupler boxes attached to a skeletal frame which screws onto the floor of the car. Using a demoted rail cutters (any sharp object should do), I snip off the coupler boxes at each end. I then CA a kadee coupler box in its place. I've done the same with Athearn Talgo mounted passenger car trucks. CA holds fine for my purposes, and have held up in consists of over 40 cars.

[Stephen D. Richards]

Indianiajones12,
               try using a small pair of needle nose pliers and gently squeeze the sides of the Athearn snap on clip in.  Just a bit.  It will greatly improve the holding ability.  These are light spring steel so go slow and easy.  Stephen

[rallygsc]

One thing I did to some of the athearn coupler covers is this.

drill a tiny hole in the center and run a screw through it,

I never glue coupler boxes, I use screws on all of them, force of habit thanks to a coupler box failure on a rivarossi challenger

but most of the time I have never had problems with the athearn coupler covers, I usually use a jewelers rod, basically a metal rod with plastic ends, same idea as one member mentioned with the pliers, and they work.

I have had problems on some of the alco pa's, that's where drilling a hole and adding a screw comes in handy

[peri]

thank's to all ,
for your (unexpectable ) great help.


Perikles

[SteamGene]

With the Athearn metal coupler box covers - I take a pair of needle nose pliars and gently bend the long sides of the cover INWARDS - JUST A BIT!!! before snapping them on.  The couplers go on before the frame is attached to the carbody, and it takes first finger and thumb to PUSH to seat the cover.  Then it stays there. 
Gene