REVIEW Balast Regulator - Spectrum 16947

[lbss09]

This review is of Bachmann Spectrum 16947 - HO Track Ballast Regulator

I couldn't find any information on this item when I was looking into buying it, but now that I took the chance and bought it, I wanted to post this review so a few more people can find some info on this item, which is a great addition to any collection.

I purchased my Ballast regulator at www.modeltrainstuff.com for $39.99 easily more afordable than most other hobby sites.


***PROS***
This is a great addition to any layout. This ballast regulator from Bachman Spectrum is crafted with fine details including separately applied hoses, horns, exhaust and track equipment. Both cabs also have properly painted seats and floors and even include smaller details like windshield wipers.

***CONS***
On the down side there are no working lights on the inside and outside of either cab. There are only painted on lights. There is room to add them in later if you chose. You will have to drill the holes out, but there is room in each cab.

***MOTIVE POWER***
Power comes from a single, half inch diameter can motor that connects to the two axels on the front truck under the smaller of the cabs. The motor sits in the compartment beneath the exhaust stacks. Power pickups are on all four axels and current travels from the rear truck to the motor via two copper connecting rods. When removing the motor, note the position of these connecting rods, as you must weave them back into place when you put the motor back, although it is not hard to do at all.

***WEIGHT***
If you decide you want to pull or push something keep in mind that the ballast regulator weighs in at just under 84g or 2.9oz which is not a lot compared to a six axel diesel which is about 700g or 25oz. It's best to keep loads for this piece of equipment under 100g or 3.5oz. Consider just one flat car or gondola car. If you want to try running it with two cars, or if it struggles to pull the car you chose, you may need to remove weights from the cars. Also, consider adding weight into the front cab of the ballast regulator or under the motor. You can cover the screws that are beneath the chassis, as these do not need to be removed to pull the motor and truck assembly out.

***REPORTING MARK/ROAD NUMBERS***
There are no road numbers, road names or other reporting marks on this piece of equipment, which in this case is good as it will fit into any modern railroad and still look great. I added a set of Microscale's CSX logo and a road number decals to the crew bus and it looks great.

***DISSASEMBLING***
To gain access to the motor, DC DCC decoder connection plate, gear box, and front trucks:
1. Remove the front coupler.
NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE ANY SCREWS, THEY HOLD THE MOTOR TO THE FRAME, NOT THE FRAME TO THE BODY
2. Using a mini flat head screw driver or modeling tweezers pry the chassis away from the black frame with the SPECTRUM logo until the clip holding it in is free, then gently pull the black frame down, and back until the coupler is clear, then pull it forward and down until the brass connecting rods are cleared.
3. If you need access to the motor, remove the two screws on the underside of the frame, and the motor will come loose. It is hardwired to the circuit board, but is not permanently connected to the gearbox. The drive shaft will pull apart as you pull the motor away.
To re assemble:
1. Line up the two halves of the drive shaft and push them back together; at the same time line up the motor with the holes on the frame and screw the motor in place.
2. Using a small screwdriver, guide the brass connecting rods back through the frame. They should go above the Y frame, bend down after the hydraulics, and pass on both sides of the V shaped support. Push the rods back into the guide holes and then pressing down on the contacts on the rear truck, slide the connecting rods into place. When looking at the truck upside down, the copper connecting rod should be on top of the contact plates. Push the frame back into its spot. Re attach the coupler, and you're done.

***DCC***
This is a DCC ready locomotive. All you need to do is attach a decoder with bare wires to the connector plates using the plastic clips provided with the locomotive. Just remove the metal clips which are already installed prior to installation of your decoder. I'll update this with instructions and a recommended decoder when I get my decoder in the mail.

Here are some pictures of the Ballast regulator working on a section of track in my layout (the CSX logo and roadnumber were added after purchasing, and are not included in the package)

CLICK FOR LARGE PICTURE

[BestSnowman]

Great Information! I especially love the pictures.

If you get any of the other two Maintenance vehicles (Speeder with Work Crane & Cart and Ballast Vehicle with Crane) I'd be interested in the same type of review.

[richG]

Working ballast regulators.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_type=&search_query=ballast+regulator&aq=f

Rich

[CNE Runner]

Really outstanding review by someone who sounds like he knows what he is talking about...thank you! This looks like a nice piece of equipment and would solve the drinking problem we have with our ballast regulators on the Newburgh, Dutchess & Connecticut RR. Here is a picture of our unit:

As you can see they don't come equipped with lights either.

From the 1890s,
Ray

[Yampa Bob]

Excellent review, thanks for sharing.

Ray,
That looks like a typical crew, one worker and four supervisors.   

[CNE Runner]

Well Bob, you know how it works with government jobs. BTW: I'm the good looking one in the picture.

Ray

[Tylerf]

I own one of these, and I agree it is a very nice model. I just wish there was more room for a decoder without taking up the cab. So mine is still on display until I find a small enough decoder

[Santa Fe buff]

It looks very nice. I'll consider it when my layout may need some prototypical maintenance on the mainline. After all, you do see new tracks, and new fixes added to railroads, and equipment like this sounds perfect to use. I like the fact you can add your choice of decal. Perhaps I'll print one out on decal paper when I get decal paper.  A little ahead of myself. Overall, I believe it was a thorough, expert, and very useful review. I believe you sound just like the people working for Model Railroader. Perhaps better.

Here's something out-of-the-blue,
I like the weathering on your CSX hoppers, it looks nice, very nice. Also, your layout seems from this perspective that your doing it right, and professional too.

Welcome Aboard to this Board, which I hope you'll find to your likings.

Joshua

[lbss09]

Hey all! Thanks for the comments!
BestSnowman, I'm not sure if I'm going to be getting the other equipment yet, but if I do get anything else from Bachman I'll certainly make a review for you all. Keep an eye out!

Santa Fe, It certainly is a great addition. There are plenty of decals to chose from if you can't find a suitable decal paper and printer. I used Microscale decals meant for CSX diesel in the merge scheme. Go for the custom decals for sure though. If you get one soon, let me know what you come up with! And thanks for the comment on the hoppers! I love doing custom weathering, so I'm glad to hear you like it!!

[Santa Fe buff]

   I can't believe this! I printed out some fine FGF logos last night. I brushed Testors Liquid Plastic Cement (A light cement I believe) to a general area on the outside of an undecorated GP9 shell. After carefully cutting the 'decal' from the printer paper, I then put it in place on the model. Then I coated Testors Decal Set (A basic seal that provides a nice finish and is needed to apply decals.) After working it with a rounded hard rod (Okay, I used a simple toothpick) but you must be extremely careful not to rip or damage the decal. After I had it perfectly on there, and overnight period gave way to me waking up and finding the paper stuck on the locomotive; just like a decal!

Ibss09,
I think we can consider ourselves friends.  Anyway, how big is your layout? Mine is under construction, and it's a simple 4x8. (Curse room restrictions.)

I have another tip on adding more realism to a Bachmann Standard removable 'coal load'. After all, flat black embedded plastic is nice, but not for me.

Joshua

[CNE Runner]

Hi Joshua - I was in the process of cleaning out some of my older saved posts when I had the occasion to read (reread?) yours. If I understand you correctly, you printed a logo on standard computer printer paper (probably 20 lb?), then (using Testor's plastic cement) glued it to the side of a plastic engine shell? Didn't the plastic cement "craze" the engine shell? What did you do about the thickness of the printed logo? I find it hard to believe your logo came out as good as a decal/dry transfer...if you say it did - then it did.

I use a technique, on the sides of buildings, that are in need of "painted on" signage. I print a sign on my printer (you can find lots of signs on Google Images), and after carefully cutting out the image with a fresh Xacto knife blade, I turn the image over. Using 150 grit sandpaper, I carefully "sand" the reverse side of the image until it is almost through to the printed image...do this in one direction only and take your time. Using a glue stick (on this reverse side), I glue the sign to the building. A final step is to use a narrow blunt instrument, like the back of a dry transfer burnishing tool, to snug the sign down into the brick/siding lines (do this step before the glue dries). The result is signage that looks like it has been painted on. A little weathering (or a lot of weathering if that is your choice) will make the sign appear as if it has been in place for years.

As for coal loads: Some time ago, we were visiting some Yankees up north and I was able to "rescue" some pieces of real coal. Some pounding with a hammer on the cloth-covered coal (don't ask me how I learned about the cloth covering the coal; but the wife is still steamed), I ended up with essentially coal dust. Carefully spray some matte medium on the plastic coal load and immediately sprinkle on some of your powered coal dust...voila!..a realistic coal load! BTW: Trust me, a little coal goes a long way (I still have a couple of pounds left).

Thanks for your suggestion Josh. I think I would rather try the plastic cement trick on your plastic engine shells rather than mine.

Cheers,
Ray