4-8-4 Northern Locomotive

[Ntrain]

I am having a terrible time getting this engine to pass through switches.  I tried to lower the rear 4 by spacers.  Also tried to do the same with the front 4.  I got to the point that the main drivers weren't making contact.  I have adjusted back to get the drivers in contact, and it still can't handle the Bachman EZ switches.  Any suggestions would be appreciated!

[Franz T]

The first think I do when I get a new loco is get out the trusty old NMRA gauge and check my wheel spacing. (I found Bachmann is notorious for having out of gauge wheels - an easy fix and otherwise their locos are great, at least the Spectrum line.)  So check if all your wheels are in correct gauge. I have no experience with EZ Track switches, but I have found the the regular EZ Track is a little under gauge...I would recommend using Peco or Micro Engineering track. If you prefer sectional, Atlas isn't bad and if you want track with roadbed, I would go with Kato....

[James in FL]

Very interesting reply.

You made me go check mine.

I'm not seeing it.
Considering the tolerance of most massed produced punch pressed parts, would be generally +/- .005.
Take into consideration what your NMRA gauge actually measures.

+/- .005 is nothing.
Considering the tolerance would naturally spread (open) proportional to die use (number of parts produced).
Add to this the number of miss-feeds in the production run.
Miss-feeds damage the die's cutting edge furthering opening the tolerance.
The process for finishing die punched parts is mainly "tumbling". This process removes burrs and can further open dimensions by removing base material. The longer in the "tumbler" the more material removed.
All of this said assuming an "operator" has strict conformance to requirements.
Basically in it's in the operators' discretion.

What does yours actually measure?
Enough said about the NMRA gauge.

I am interested in knowing how you found under gauged track age?
De-railments?
Passing a NMRA gauge through the rail?

But I have found the regular EZ Track is a little under gauge...

This is what I find interesting
Using an NMRA gauge or by checking it with calipers?

The only EZ track I have ever found to be under gauged (with a NMRA gauge) was three sections of 10in. straights passed over by a child's tricycle.

As both your, and my, posts, the casual reader should take with a grain of salt.

I could have, and probably should have just dismissed your claim

But I have found the regular EZ Track is a little under gauge...

Anybody can post whatever they feel and attempt to get others agree with them.
It's what the "A" forum is all about.
I'm not one of them.
It would be futile, at this point, to ask what your EZ-track measured with calipers.

We have a poster here insinuating Wahl oil is conductive.
Many will not attempt to find the truth about such allegations.

Please do not regard this as a personal attack, I'm just trying to dispel rumor, or if you will, urban myth.


I'm not sure what you are saying about "lowering the rear" by "4 spacers".
The loco does not to be "lowered"

Check the gauge of both the pony and trailing trucks.
The gauge of the drivers is deliberately narrow to traverse 11.25 r EZ track.

[Ntrain]

What I mean by lowering is to place spacers (washers) on the attachment screws between the carriages (front and rear) and the engine body.  I can add enough so that the driver wheels don't touch the rails.  I have backed off that extreme condition to a place where there is little "rock" fore and aft on the engine.  The gauge sounds like something I need to get and use.

[James in FL]

OK Ntrain,

What I understand you to be saying, is that you are shimming both the pony (lead) and trailing trucks (aft) with spacers (washers).
You are attempting this procedure to help get the loco to traverse "switch tracks" without de-railment.

Please correct me if I am wrong.

If this is in fact the case, then let me offer this advice.

As previously stated, first check the wheel gauge on both the leading and trailing trucks. An NMRA gauge is a good place to start.
Make sure those wheel sets are in proper gauge.
Adjustment can be tricky as the wheels must roll true without wobble.
What I am saying, is that the wheels flanges are perpendicular, to their respective axles, throughout their rotation.
Out of gauge pony truck wheels will severely mess with the picking of the points.

The loco should not "rock". It should sit firmly upon the rail to have the correct weight distributed on the drivers.
The pony and trailing truck are merely along for the ride and do not carry any weight of the loco.
Sometimes it may be helpful to spring the pony trucks with downward pressure to help hold the rail.
Some attest to this procedure, I, personally, have not found it necessary with any loco.

Once you have confirmed the "pony truck" and "trailing truck" wheels are gauged properly, let's leave the drivers gauged as they are from the factory.
We can adjust, as necessary, later.

Look to the switch points now (track)
Are they moving, and holding to the desired path?
They should hold tight and not move as the loco passes over.
Are they firmly against the rails?
Is there a gap, between the rails, whereas the wheel flange can pick the points?

Look to the outside of the points against the inside of the rail.
Some fine work with a file can bring this as close as possible. The inside of the point can also be filed (sharp) to achieve proper closure, and a smooth transition.

Generally, most big steam loco's have their drivers to the bottom of the gauge, even sometimes slightly under-gauged to traverse the tight radius on the curve.

Check these things and report back. Maybe we can offer further advice.

P.S. Please excuse my misinterpretation of your use of the term "Carriages". Proper English differs from American English, and sadly so.
My mistake.
My apologies.