Spectrum 2-10-2 DCC

[WGL]

Bob, examined under brighter light, the dust looks black.  It wouldn't stay in the tender long, so I'll just leave it in its bag.

HO-Ron, after several months more seasoning in the hobby since I made those comments, I now agree with you.  With 3 connected ovals, I think the 5 amp booster is essential.

Pacific Northern, your information that the 2-10-2's prototypical top speed
is 55 mph will reconcile me to the top speed of 64 mph my Spectrum gets pulling 6 cars, & it should have pulling power for the maximum cars I would use. 

[Yampa Bob]

I'm always amused at Model Railroader's testing results. They define "easy rolling cars" at .07 ounce.  I tune the heck out of my cars, and most are around .1 ounce.

I just referred to my previous tests on a Spectrum 2-8-0, made with 3 different accurate force gauges, 2 of my own design.  Drawbar force was 3.5 ounces If I used MRs definition, that would equate to 50 "easy rolling cars".

Of course my Connie has over 30 hours of run time so it's well broken in. As for speed, I seldom run over 1/2 throttle.

[OkieRick]

I have the same bag of stuff.  I assumed it to be graphite for lubrication.  I know I'd trust someone lubricating my 2-10-2 with graphite more than I would someone squirting 30 weight on the drivers and wiping 'em down with a greasy rag.

I *hope* Bachmann had the foresight to put that in there to protect us from ourselves!

Rick
-

[WGL]

OkieRick, your suggestion sent me on a search of this forum for graphite.  It seems mostly for lubricating couplers.  That leaves me still wondering why it accompanies the 2-10-2 & not the 4-8-4 or my SD45s.

  Something squeaks when I run my new 4-8-4.  Could it be wheels on a new tender?  What is the remedy?  I have IHC passenger cars that squeak when run, also.

  Bob, in regard to free-rolling cars, I just discovered a "clinker" on one of my trains, a Bachmann GN flatcar with load of logs.  One or more of its plastic wheelsets is binding.  I'm thinking of getting metal wheel sets for it.

[Yampa Bob]

I also suggest getting the small tool for reaming / smoothing the journals. Then change out the plastic wheelsets with Kadee metal ones.

Some suggest using graphite in the coupler box, but I never do. Kadee has graphite in a tube, called "Greas-em".

Truck tuner:
http://www.micromark.com/HO-TRUCK-TUNER,8241.html

33" wheelsets for most freight cars:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNLF9&P=SM

Greas-em:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNLK8&P=SM

Coupler height gauge:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNLH6&P=SM

For complete truck/wheel replacements I use these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWN06&P=SM

[pdlethbridge]

I have never replaced the plastic wheels on my cars. Having metal wheels on all cars could give you a problem if you are using an auto reverser on a short track.

[Yampa Bob]

I have about 100 plastic wheelsets you can have. All you have to do is fly out here and pick them up.   

I threw out about 200 because the axles were rusty.

[pdlethbridge]

They are on the real ones

[WGL]

Thanks for the links, Bob.  I bookmarked them into my Model Trains folder.