New layout design

[ThomasLloydGuy]

yes i am aware of the polarity of the tracks leading into the turn table, do any of you know of a way or wiring this with dcc so that it can work, if not i can remove it. With the round house it will be the last thing i add to my layout, i have the turntable and roundhouse already from my current layout so i was gonna play it by ear for what fits.
so definitely im gonna haft to mess around with the positon of the turntable.

[Tim]

Thomas

If you are using DCC then wire all the perimeter tracks the same.

Insert an auto reverse module in the power feed to the bridge,
the polarity will then take care of it's self.

DCC Specialities  OG-AR will do the job.

Tim Anders
Souderton, PA

[ThomasLloydGuy]

~Tim

thanks, i'm still learning about dcc

[Tim]

Thomas

If you are using a starter set with less than 5a output the
OG-AR will not work, it requires 4a to trip.

Use the PSX-AR it can be set to trip as low as 1.27a.
Both units are made by DCC-Specalities.

Sorry I keep forgetting that not everyone is using 5a+ systems.

Tim Anders
Souderton, PA

[Joe Satnik]

Tim, TLG,

Tim said:

"If you are using DCC then wire all the perimeter tracks the same."

I'm guessing you mean "as you approach the turntable from any direction, DCC controller wire 1 always on right rail, DCC controller wire 2 always on left rail."

I disagree.

In this specific layout your two lead-in tracks are naturally the opposite polarity (as defined above) of one another. 

In general, lead-ins and/or stalls directly the opposite from one another are naturally the opposite polarity (as defined above).

Wiring (polarizing) the turntable lead-in tracks, stall tracks and bridge to their natural polarities (good for DC) will minimize the number of "trips" or "toggles" or "cycles" or "wheel pitting and arcing shorts" the reverser, controller and engine would go through. 

What if you want or need to temporarily run DC?  Flip a switch and you're ready to go.

I recommend Atlas book #12, "The Complete Atlas Wiring Book", which details the DC operation and wiring of the turntable.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

[Tim]

Joe

You,re correct on the wiring I should have said "same as DC" it's what I was
thinking just not what I wrote.

I do disagree with you on the wheel pitting.  The items I specified switch in milliseconds
thus do not pit the wheels.  I have had two of them working on my railroad for several
years (4a version) no sign of pitting on any of my equipment.

I understand that there are several devices on the market that can cause pitting, but
not the ones from DCC - Specialties.

Tim Anders
Souderton, PA

[jward]

one thing i would do that i haven't seen anybody else mention is i would add a small yard for your cars. it would go rather well with your turntable and roundhouse

[ThomasLloydGuy]

jward, i love yards but i find with 8' tables it really hard to fit in a nice one.

[mikec069]

Please forgive my ignorance, but from what I can tell strictly from the picture, that layout is 8x8 not 4x8.  I have 5x8.5 of table space and actually attempted to do part of the layout and the "center tracks" came closer to edge of the second table then the middle of the two tables.

Like I said, it's probably my ignorance, but how does that layout fit on a rectangular table when the picture looks awfully square.

Last question, Are you using ALL sectional (ie Bachmann) or are you mixing in some flex-track?

Mikec069

Remember 2 + 2 = 5
for sufficient values of 2

[Terry Toenges]

Mike - I think he's upgrading from 4x8 to 8x8.