CA Adhesives

[HHRR]

I have used CA adhesives to assemble laser cut wooden buildings etc., and also to glue items on my trains, and scenery for years.  I have apparently developed an allergic reaction (irritation) to the adhesive in that my sinuses become plugged tight as if I have a cold.  It takes about 4 or 5  days to get over it. I have tested this many times, with the same results and all I can figure out is that it's the CA in the "super glues" that causes this. It affects me even with very good ventilation. Does anyone know of similar glues that cure rather quickly that do not contain CA?  I realize that the CA is probably what produces the fast cure time.  I'm willing to settle for a longer cure time as long as I can breathe.  Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks, Joe

[BIG BEAR]

   Hi Joe,
  I have used hot glue in areas that are not going to be seen. I would try a craft or hobby shop for a smaller, more controlable one to use in small areas.
   Good-luck,
        Barry

[grumpy]

For a quick setup and good strength try Gorilla glue .A small bottle goes a long way.
Don

[Yampa Bob]

Joe,
When using Cyanoacrylate glues, it is imperative that you have adequate ventilation.  A small fan by or on your workbench will help. I always wear a disposable mask when using CA. (the "paper" type with elastic head band)

You might try the foam safe CA, odorless and non fuming, yet still compatible with activator. It is slightly slower to set, but much safer.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKAV8&P=7

[Jim Banner]

For wood buildings, I use Weldbond.  To apply it in tiny amounts, I fill a 3 cc syringe and use a 16 gauge needle with the tip ground flat.  To keep the tip from plugging, I keep the rig in a glass of water.  Then I keep a Kleenex next to the glass to dry the tip of the needle before applying the glue.  A quick touch on the Kleenex is all that is needed.  If you will be staining the wood, wash off any errant glue with a damp Kleenex or a Q-tip.  For me, this is reason enough to use Weldbond instead of AC.

I also use Weldbond for gluing down cork and track, then later (with lots of water) for fixing the ballast in place.  I have even used diluted Weldbond in a pump sprayer to fix ground foam ground cover, and for applying ground foam to furnace filter armatures for making trees.

For plastics, I use various plastic glues and cements.  My favorite adhesive for Styrene, acrylic, and polycarbonate if Weldon 3 with lacquer thinner being a close second.  These I apply with a small brush.  For ABS, I use plumber's ABS glue applied with a Q-tip.  Messy, but it works.  Same for PVC, except plumber's PVC glue.  These is a hobby shop cement for PVC and it is neater but not as strong.

For those jobs where multiple materials are involved, there is Epoxy in various working times from 3 minutes up and Walther's Goo.  Where Goo is unobtainable due to shipping regulations, Plyobond is an excellent alternative.  It is not quite as easy to apply (comes in a bottle with a brush instead of a tube) but is more permanent than Goo.

And as already mention, hot glue.  With different sizes of glue guns and a variety of temperatures, it is a lot more versatile than it used to be.

[grumpy]

Try Gorilla Glue , it will glue anything to anything with a strong joint, no fumes and a little goes a long way. I find that hot glue does not give a strong bond. If you want a strong bond with epoxy use the longer set times and even warm it up a bit to thin it out for a longer set time and a stronger bond. You can thin out epoxy enough to paint it into joints. This is from years in industrial plastics.
Don

[Jim Banner]

Joe, if your stuffed up sinuses are from a asthmatic type reaction to AC, you need to be aware of the following caution concerning Gorilla Glue found on Amazon.com:

Individuals with chronic asthmatic conditons should consult physician prior to using product.




Grumpy, I believe you meant to say that you can warm epoxy to thin it out for a stronger bond and a shorter set time.

ref: http://www.epoxymethods.com/faqs.htm

[CNE Runner]

CA adhesives are wonderful and can really speed up the assembly of a structure however they are very susceptible to changes in temperature. My layout is currently a fold-up variety in one bay of our garage. When the weather cooperates (which is fairly often in Alabama), I leave the layout folded down and arrange my buildings. Over time I noticed small parts falling off the structures (drain pipes, trim pieces, etc.) and couldn't figure out what was happening. As a result of some research, I found out that CA adhesives dramatically loose their chemical bond as the temperature drops.

I have begun storing my structures inside the house rather then on shelves in the garage. The result is that I no longer have to spend time re-gluing parts back onto my buildings. While you probably do not have the environmental conditions of my layout - keep this drawback in mind when selecting adhesives.

Ray

[Rangerover]

Am I the only one who still uses regular old testors glue in the red and white label ?

I tried 2 different CA adhesives sold to me 4 years ago when I first came back to the hobby from a hobby shop. I couldn't get it to work. I have buildings I put on my layout that I built, plastic, over 30 years ago and they are still together in spite of extremely hot and sub zero temps in attics using the red and white regular old testors, course I apply it with a tooth pick and have no problems using it. I'll be one that will stay with what I found out works for me.

[Yampa Bob]

I use these glues for styrene, both "non-toxic". The first is the old standby in a tube, good for large areas and laminations. The liquid with needle applicator is great for small detailing, slightly longer set time allows more time to position parts.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHE38&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHE41&P=7

[SteamGene]

CA does not work well for plastic to plastic bonding, as a general rule.  I, too, use tube Testors a great deal - but puddled and toothpicked as a general rule.  I really prefe the Testors in a bottle to most of the really thin glues which seem to vanish before setting for any other application than osmosis.
Gene

[RAM]

The plastic cement is much better than glue or CA.  At least that what I like.

[grumpy]

Jim . that is my error , I did mean to say ( shorten the set time ). My wife has a severe chronic asthma condition and in the quantities I use Gorilla Glue does not affect her. The application should be in small drops . On my bench I have most glues , TitE Bond Testors liquid and tube plastic and model cement waterproof exterior carpenters glue . Each of these have a specialized application wheras Gorilla Glue will bond anything to anything and in small quantities does  not irritate my wifes asthmatic condition. All solvent based glues or cements and ca have a warning label to use in well ventilated areas. Thank you for allowing me my 2 cents.
Don