Spectrum 2-10-2 Light, Spectrum 2-10-0 Russian and Steamer pigtails

[Yampa Bob]

Rick
Please refer to the following thread:
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,8263.0.html

To plug directly into the 8 pin socket in your tender, you have to obtain an adapter harness from JST 9 pin female socket to 8 pin male plug.  The adapter is made by Digitrax, comes in 1 inch and 3 inch harness lengths, cost about $5.00 for either one.  In most cases the 1 inch harness will work ok. 

Part number for the 3 inch harness:
http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=264&products_id=87588

Part number for the 1 inch harness (the "S" stands for short)
http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=264&products_id=87589

[OkieRick]

Yampa and all-

I ordered the Tsunami TSU-1000 S (for Heavy Steam Locomotives), two JST to NMRA wiring harnesses and two speakers.  The 2nd harness and speaker is for my Spectrum 2-10-0 Russian Decapod Light Steam that's "DCC Ready."

The 2-10-2 with DCC Onboard waiting on a TSU-1000 S and Digitrax JST to NMRA wiring harness:



Black DCC decoder at the left:





More when I finish up here and start with the 2-10-0 Russian.

Thanks for all your help,
Rick

[SteamGene]

Okie, I'm not sure that the USRA light 2-10-2 qualifies for "heavy steam."  It might really be at the top of "medium steam."  Compared with later 2-10-2s it's quite small. 
Unless Tsunami has changed in the last few months, you will have to buy a nine pin to eight pin converter to plug it into the NMRA socket. 
The spare wires are for certain accessories - don't worry about them. 
Gene

[OkieRick]

Right, I'm putting a Heavy Steam decoder in the 2-10-2.   The Russian 2-10-0 at Medium Steam will be a later project.

This weekend will be spent shopping for an EZ DCC Command Controller, getting some fresh track layed and researching some EZ Command compatible switchable turnouts.

Okie

[pdlethbridge]

or here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/BACHMANN-DIGITAL-COMMAND-FOR-N-HO-ON30-TRAIN-SET-44902_W0QQitemZ200302356687QQcmdZViewItemQQptZModel_RR_Trains?hash=item200302356687&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14

[OkieRick]

Yampa & pd,

Looking at this it appears to be 100% push button.  If I was going to select something by pressing 1 would I:

press once to latch down, press again to unlatch (#1 key stays down and releases on a second press or tap) or is it more physical.

Remember - I'm playing with the end of a mouthstick.  Like one finger poke at a time.


Rick

[grumpy]

If you push no.1 the bell will ring until you push it down again to turn off the bell. Some commands are push to run and then push to stop. Other commands are push to start and shut off automatically. You should be able to operate 90 % of EZ command with a mouth stick in my opinion . The push buttons are fairly large . You may have to do some adapting the speed control which is a dial and fairly large.
Don

[OkieRick]

I'm looking for speaker wires.  Tsunami says use two purple wires for the TSU-1000 S (Heavy Steam) Sound Decoder.  I have 3.  Two purple and a white coming out the capacitor end (left hand end) and one purple, one green coming out the JST to NMRA harness end (right hand end).  (note JST to NMrA harness is installed in this photo).



Which wires to use?

Thanks-
Rick

[Yampa Bob]

Use the two purple wires that are on the left in your picture for the speaker. (same end as the capacitor).  The white wire will not be used unless you add a dynamic exhaust cam, so disregard the white wire.

[OkieRick]

I didn't have any help today but will have some helping fingers tomorrow.  I have a list of stuff to be picked up in town tomorrow before my help arrives.  I need a new low voltage iron and some small diameter solder, rubber cement, heat activated shrink-type insulating material and a smaller drill bit than I have if there is one.  I need to get the speaker housing beneath the coal load ready for it's install and perforate the coal load.  It's made easy by Bachmann on this tender.  It flips up to reveal the working space.

I did run across one thing I need to clear up on the wiring of the tender.  Examining it tonight I found a red wire which appears as though it should be soldered to a screw tip but has come lose.

In the photo below there is a lone Red wire on the left hand side looking towards the front of the tender that appears to end right at the shiny nut and screw.  Without my magnifying glasses on I can't tell if it has ever been soldered to the screw.  My help yesterday said it looked like it did.  I'll post this elsewhere and/or call Bachmann but I need that information for sure.



Once I find that out, perform a bit of surgery and place an audio implant in I'll be ready to test it on a DC track.  I've learned a lot of "what to do" and "what not to do" in this little exercise.  I purchased the EZ Command DCC Controller System today.  I'm ready for stuff to get noisy in here.

Thanks-
Okie Rick with a mouthstick

[Yampa Bob]

Hi Rick
I answered your question about the loose wire in the other thread.  Be sure to seal the speaker frame to the bottom of the coal load, so the sound waves from the speaker back can't "leak" through to the front of the speaker.

Perhaps that's why you said you needed rubber cement. A very thin coat of silicone sealer will also work.

Good luck

[OkieRick]

The 2-10-2 tender has a chamber below the coal load.  I don't know if this was by accident or design but my 1" round speaker is going to fit very well in the enclosed area below the coal load.  I got re-supplied today in solder and cement as well as getting another very small drill bit to perforate the coal.  When I hear from you email I'll hope to be most of the way done.

Inside tender, back side of coal load chamber.  Hole needed to run speaker wires.





Rick