Returning to HO

[patzwaldb]

Hi,  I am considering returning to HO after many years of Lionel.  I still have tons of brass track and rolling stock, structures and some engines.  I am considering a 12' x 5' layout. 

I know lots of things have changed and I am not sure where to start.  My concerns are.....

1.  What type of track to use
2.  I definitely want to go with a remote control system but don't know what.
3.  I don't know how the new scale couplers work.  I played a bit with the old systems but never had much luck.
4.  Can I convert my old engines to dcc?

Lots of questions I know but that will get me started.

Bob

[SteamGene]

1.  Sell your brass track for scrap.  For a 12 x 5 layout either sectional or flex track will work, but make sure it's nickle silver.  The advantage of sectional is that it's perhaps a bit easier for somebody getting started, but flex track is less expensive and - well, more flexible.  Those who use sectional track with an attached roadbed seem to think that the Bachmann track is better. 
2.  By remote control, do you mean DCC?
3.  The knuckle couplers work the same way the real ones do to couple.  Back one car to the other and the car will couple if the couplers are even and centered.  Uncoupling can be done either by magnets or by hand - many use a small bamboo skewer. 
4.  It is apparently possible to convert any HO locomotive to DCC, but some are just not worth the bother.  The single most important thing is to insure that the motor is completely isolated electrically from the frame.
Gene

[OkieRick]

EVERYONE told me to scrap my brass and buy 83 or 100 Nickle Silver track.  I have enought NS for one 8'x4' layout using 3' long Flex Track.  You know, I put together a 4'x8' Brass DC layouts using switchable turnouts and it worked.  It was all Tyco stuff, too!

Go with brass till you gather some NS track.  Stay with one "type' - track on ties or track & ties on a formed base.

Get some HO 'stuff' and get your feet wet.  Too much will come all to oon...the more you do, th moe you'll want to do.

Have fun!
Rick

[Rangerover]

Hello and welcome back to modeling. I retired 3 years ago and knew I wanted to build a layout after being away for 35 years. I was astonished, dumbfounded on the new DCC system.  Not only that the beauty and detail of the loco's and rolling stock, even the buildings laser cut wood and sharp detail even the plastic resin kits are far superior to some of the older kits from the 60's. But the lingo or the way some try to explain all that's new in modeling had and still has me scratching my head. Some talk to newcomers as tough they should already know what they're talking about. It's best to lurk for a while just so you can understand the terms they use.

The DCC systems and choices from the simple Bachmann, less expensive than most others to elaborate and pricey systems. I bought the EZ Command to learn on 3 years ago and the 5 amp booster, I still have it and use it. some of the other systems are too complicated and expensive for me at this time.

Read this and other model train forums, do searches on forums too that's how I got up to date. Visit, if you can, a club in your area to get recommendations on the newer stuff and possibly hands on with DCC.

I used some of my old track too, brass, steel and NS. I did replace some of the brass with ns, some of it, even the NS was out of spec, wide between the rails when I  checked it with a gauge. I just don't  want any problems once I get all the scenics and ballast done.  I used both code 100 mostly and some code 83. What I found out was that code 83 can be a sort of a problem with old rolling stock that have deep flange wheels, they roll on the plastic tie plates. I had to replace with newer wheels. Code 83 looks more in scale to some, but what I found out is after it's ballasted, it's really hard to tell the difference. I like the code 100 in the areas where it is hard to get to for maintenance and little more reliable as far as a possible derailment in the mountains or tunnels.

Some folks still use all their old stuff, such as myself and even stayed analog (DC). Me too I still run part of mine in analog sometimes. The old tyco, bachmann, ahm, cheap rolling stock from years ago sure does look great with a little weathering and new couplers and trucks and wheels. a little work involved, but I'm having a good time and enjoying it.

[Rangerover]

3.  I don't know how the new scale couplers work.  I played a bit with the old systems but never had much luck.
4.  Can I convert my old engines to dcc?

If you are going to use the new couplers, knuckle, I highly recommend Kadee. If you have old rolling stock you can buy a test kit for about $25.00 they are all different possible couplers for most rolling stock and engines. Kadee #5 is the most popular though.

Some aren't really worth it, you can't beat the price of a Bachmann DCC loco with DCC installed. I recommend Atlas too for detail and quiet performers and the price is right.  I bought 26 DCC loco's from all different  manufacturer's, some with sound. When you put one of the newer loco's be it steam or diesel on the track, they are so smooth and nice, from just creeping to ho scale speed. it's just great. Most have flywheels these days and can motors, which are far superior to the open frame motor of days gone by.

As another poster said it requires a lot of work to convert to DCC, especially noted is making sure the motor is isolated from the chassis which in most cases you have to remove the motor and insulate with plastic and use nylon screws to replace the metal screws. Fun to do, and a challenge, but can be very rewarding when it works and you did it right. Best to buy yourself a cheap meter for testing continuity and voltage when installing motors and decoders and stall speed.

[PhilipCal]

Welcome back to the wonderful world of HO. Being retired now for about three years, I have come to appreciate our hobby even more. I'm going to leave the "technical" stuff to those more qualified than I am to advise you. I agree with the advice concerning nickel silver track. It's more prototypical in appearence, and far easier to keep clean than brass.

What you're going to discover, if you haven't already, is the amazing detail that now  goes into most locomotives and rolling stock.To be certain, the prices have increased, but basically, there is ample value in the HO marketplace. It's very enjoyable to simply browse, the wide variety of locomotives, rolling stock, and accessories available to us.

Once again, glad you're back. Believe you'll be glad as well.

Phil

[RAM]

Hello Bob, what we need is more of us Bob's.  Nothing wrong with brass track, other than the fact that it doesn't look as nice as NS and you need to spend more time cleaning  it.  I wouldn't use it myself.  I do have one rerailrer that is brass.  The scale couplers is the only way to go.  Just make sure that you take time to have them ajusted correctly.  We don't know what kind of locomotive you have.  Most are not that hard to change over.  Now the question is do you want to run DCC or DC.  DCC is wonderful if you are going to move more than one operator.  With DCC you do not need to wire in controls for each block.  You can have walk around controls.  Be where is action is.  There is a lot of information on the internet.  Just do a search for DCC.  If there is a club near you, take time to visit them.  Is there another model railroader near you.  I found out from this board that there is a modeler just six miles up the road from me.  Good luck and have fun.

[trainmaster971]

Bob,

As you are just getting restarted in the hobby it would be best to use the track and turnouts that you have now.  It would be very expensive to replace them all with nickle silver.  This would allow you to enjoy the new found bug and as time and funds allow you could replace sections of track.

I have several Athearn, IHC and Rivarossi locos from the late 70's and they still run fine.  You will need to make sure that you clean and lubricate them before running.

I also thought about converting to DCC from the older DC block control system. I operate the layout by myself and only rarely have company over to operate a second train so I have decided to stay with the old block system.  The new locos that are available will operate just fine on either system.

If you want to be able to walk around the layout to follow your train there is a cab control handheld unit that was made by MRC that is ocassionally listed on ebay.  I have one on a long teather and it works great.

As Bob said, Kadee couplers are the best. You can go to their website for information on the type that are recommended for locos and cars. Again, changing all of them at one time would be costly. A pair of "change over cars' with a kadee on one end and a standard hornhook on the other will allow you to change the others as funds and time permits.

Enjoy and have fun.

I think it would not be a bad idea if repliers included the city where they are. I would welcome visitors with a lilttle advanced notice.

Ben
Montgomery, Alabama

[jward]

i find the comments on brass track to be interesting.......

i have found that on dcc the brass track actually ran cleaner than the nickel silver. perhaps dcc has an ultrasonic cleaning effect on brass but not nickel silver? at any rate, even if you decide to go with nickel silver, which i think is a good investment anyway, you can use your brass track for sidings and yard tracks where your locomotives most likely won't venture.

does your brass track have fiber ties? if so, you may run into problems with the rails staying in guage. definitely replace any fiber tie track.

there is a third option of steel track. this will rust on you, and is very hard to solder to, much worse than either brass or nickel silver.

depending on how old your brass locomotives are, they are probably marghinal runners at best, especially if they have the old open frame motors. those motors also have a high current draw. if you convert them to dcc you may have to use a higher current (O scalemaybe) decoder, in addition to whatever modifications you may have to do to the locomotives. you might want to consider replacing these motors with a can type with a low current draw, at the same time you are isolating the motor from the frame in your locomotive.

as for scale couplers, i don't like them. sure they look good, but they tend to come uncoupled easier on rough track. better to use a srandard size knuckle coupler such as a kadee #5 or #148. since most new rolling stock comes with knuckle couplers i usually retain these unless they fail. any replacements i do are kadee which are metal and alot stronger than the other plastic types.

as for dcc systems, after much research i am using the zephyr by digitrax. i was impressed by most of the entry level systems capabilities. nce in particular has customer support second to none in the model railroad industry. but the digitrax unit i am using has the unique ability to use your existing dc power packs as additional throttles. i wish other manufacturers woudl realize how much of a selling point that is. for under $200 you can convert your dc layout into a 3 cab dcc system. other systems need dcc throttles for additional cabs at about $100 a pop.