F-7A Diesel Shell Removal

[waynewhitlow]

How does one remove the shell from a Bachmann F-7A unit.  I have removed the four screws on the base at the fuel tank and the front coupler and still could not get the shell to come off.  What is the secret?  I need to replace the rear coupler pocket and need to get to the chassis.

[Yampa Bob]

Hi Wayne
I have the F-7A and the exploded diagram doesn't show squat. I have the same question.  You might call Bachmann service, see if they know.  If you find out the secret, please post here to help the rest of us.

This issue of the factory not providing shell removal information is ridiculous...no it's downright intolerable. 

Good luck

[waynewhitlow]

I have contacted the Bachmann service department.  No answer yet, but whatever I get I will post.

[grumpy]

Everything comes apart with a big enough hammer.
Don

[waynewhitlow]

I finally got the shell off, with no help from Bachmann.  I sort of modified Don's suggestion.  My rule is: "don't force it, use a bigger hammer."  First I removed the front and rear couplers by removing the clip that holds the coupler to the pocket.  Then I removed the four phillips head screws in the chassis at the front and back of the fuel tank.  You will need a small phillips head screwdriver.  Then I spread the sides apart with my fingers and a thin ruler, lifted the back up as far as would go and pulled and pushed until it came out.  I believe the front coupler pocket was the culprit that was holding the shell in.  Hope this works for others.
Wayne

[Yampa Bob]

Thanks Wayne.  I'm not particulary fond of the way the couplers are retained, and I have a couple questions.  First, is there any trick to removing the clips without breaking them?  Second, are you planning to replace the couplers with Kadee?

You mentioned replacing the coupler pocket, and would be interested in how you will achieve this. I would like to replace both couplers with Kadee 148 assemblies, but there doesn't appear to be anything to screw into. 

Thanks

[waynewhitlow]

Bob,
Kadee #452 is a replacement coupler pocket for the Bachmann F-7 A and B units.  From the picture on the Kadee web page, it looks like a direct replacement for the Bachmann pocket that pops out the chassis.  I plan to use one of these if my LHS has them in stock.  I do not know which Kadee coupler the #452 uses, but it is supplied with the conversion kit.  I suspect that it is one of the #6, 7, 8, etc. series.  I do not know much about the #148, but it may not work in the Kadee pocket.  The F-7 I am repairing belongs to a young friend of mine and he does not care what type of coupler is on it, all it needs to do is couple.  His grandmother knocked the loco off of his table and the coupler pocket broke when it hit the floor.  I will post the type of coupler when I find the #452.
You can remove the Bachmann coupler by slipping a small screwdriver under the coupler clip and snapping one end off.  The plastic is derlin, I believe, and not easy to break, except when dropped on the floor.  Hope this helps.
Wayne

[Yampa Bob]

I only use one type of coupler replacement, Kadee #148 with matching draft box assembly.  I haven't seen a loco or car yet that I couldn't use the 148 box, but the F7 might be a challenge. 

I went to the Kadee site, but the instruction PDF for #452 replacement box is not available. It just says a special coupler is included, probably a very short shank. That's good, as I like my cars close coupled.

Please keep us posted how the replacement boxes work out, I may consider using them instead of the 148.

When I first joined the board, several members beat me on the head and said "You will use Kadee couplers or else!"   

[waynewhitlow]

Bob,
Picked up the Kadee #452 today at my LHS and spent two hours installing it, which included cutting my finger with the exacto knife.  You need to cut some material off the front of the front of the front truck and the back of the rear truck.  You may also need to file the metal openings where the coupler pocket adapter fits.
The coupler is a Kadee #35 which is not easy to assemble, but can be done with nimble fingers.  It is a short shank, center mount cover.  Luckily I assembled the couplers before I cut my finger.  There are two options for coupling, 5' and 3'.  Putting the wavey spring behind the coupler pocket is the hardest part of the assembly outside of cutting away the material, and finger, from the trucks.
If you have never assembled a Kadee series 30 coupler, read the instructions first.  Kadee's instructions for the whole installation are good.  I did the 5' spacing so I did not bother with the 3' instructions.  However, the front coupler on the A unit is really tight when you use the 5' mounting hole, so I doubt if the 5' mounting hole would work.  It would be fine for the real of the A unit and both ends of the B unit.
I do not see any way you can use the Kadee #148 and its draft gear box on this unit.  Not enough room or any place to mount the box, especially on the front.
If you have any questions, let me know and I will try to answer them.
Wayne

[Yampa Bob]

Too bad about cutting your finger, those Xactos can be brutal at times.

I really enjoy my F-7 AB, hopefully the factory couplers will last a long time. If not then I'll take it apart and explore possibilities. I think the back coupler box can be adapted, but as you say the front could be tricky.

[SvFiat]

Hi, The Kadee #148 or #153 works well as a direct replacement for the F7 if you don't want to go thru the hassle of replacing the coupler pocket.

Have Fun