Dissasembling Acela engine aggravation

[Steam Freak]

It just seems to be impossible. How do I open up the damn thing without breaking something?

I even looked here: http://web.mac.com/msibnsf/iWeb/Acela%20Express,%20The%20Need%20For%20Speed/Modeling%20Techniques.html

And even with that, I still couldn't get it open. How do I do this???

Also, does the Acela require a decoder in the dummy engine as well?

[D.Harrison]

Since you've been to my site, I'll try to add some suggestions.

> ****Acela Modelers' Manual V **** Locomotive Disassembly
>Locomotive disassembly needs only a small thin screwdriver, blade type and a soft
>cloth to hold the model.  Gently spread the two sides of the body with your
> fingers. There are narrow tabs along both sides of the back plate. Carefully insert
> the scewdriver so as not to mar the finish and pop the plate loose.  The edge tab
> and the two holding clips of the back plate.

The end plate does several jobs including holding the sides in place.  Spread the sides (2) with your fingers to release the plate.  It is still held by hook latches, so you pull the plate straight back at the same time you spread the sides.  Hope that works.

>A gentle push forward on the front underbody piece also pops off the
>nose/coupler shroud.

This is easy...push the shroud under the front nose forward and the nose should pop off too.


>In the truck recess is room for the screwdriver to pry out the car sidebody
> without damage.
Should be rather easy.  Remember the assembly is upside down resting on the pantographs.

> Three sets of small tabs on each side of the shell hold the shell onto the chassis.
> Once the tabs are freed,the chassis lifts up and forward.

Of course up and forward means out the "bottom" and forward.

David Harrison

[SvFiat]

Yes it is a bit tricky.The body is mounted a bit like the Athearn F7's where you have to pry the sides at the bottom of the body and let the frame drop out. First remove the drawbar from the coupler box then slide the front skid plate under the loco forward. This will also remove the nose piece. Then remove the back panel with the door diaphram on it. Next you will notice small notches at the front trucks, take a small screw diver and gently pry the body out and up just about 1/4 inch on both sides at this point with the front of the frame hanging down below the body at a slight angle gently pull the frame out of the body.

As for the dummy Bachmann wasn't nice enough to use the same pcb so you could install a decoder for directional lighting.

Have Fun

[Steam Freak]

Yes it is a bit tricky.The body is mounted a bit like the Athearn F7's where you have to pry the sides at the bottom of the body and let the frame drop out. First remove the drawbar from the coupler box then slide the front skid plate under the loco forward. This will also remove the nose piece. Then remove the back panel with the door diaphram on it. Next you will notice small notches at the front trucks, take a small screw diver and gently pry the body out and up just about 1/4 inch on both sides at this point with the front of the frame hanging down below the body at a slight angle gently pull the frame out of the body.

As for the dummy Bachmann wasn't nice enough to use the same pcb so you could install a decoder for directional lighting.

Have Fun

So in other words, I would have to hot wire a decoder in the dummy to get directional lighting? So I'm guessing in DCC with only a decoder in the main engine, I wouldn't get the red lights in the dummy?

[Tylerf]

If you're up to the work there should be a open area to run wires through all the cars to the dummy loco.  If you installed micro plugs between each car they could be seperated and you could possibly add some other lighting.

[SvFiat]

Actually your stuck with both the white and red lights lit up in the dummy as it is in stock condition.