more questions on #6 crossovers

[hunter2115]

I know that this topic has been "beat to death", but I wanted to ask the question one more time before abandoning the idea of using crossovers to link my 2 ovals in DC. Here's what I want to do: I currently have 2 separate ovals that run two trains independantly (via twin power pack). I wanted to add a pair of crossovers and a siding so I could "park" one of the trains and be able to occassionally run the other train thru the crossovers and both ovals. I decided against going DCC at this time because I have engines and cars that I want to keep using. I bought a pair of Bachmann #6 "non-dcc decoder" crossovers thinking this would work but after reading the postings, it appears it will not without modifications (cutting gaps to isolate, ect) that I'm still not sure would result in what I am shooting for. Plus I'm not confident that I could do the mods without wrecking the crossovers. My question is, if I successfully do the modifications to the crossovers that are shown on the commonly linked to page, will I be able to run my trains as I want? Or, better yet, is there any other way to accomplish this without all of the modifying of the crossovers?
Thanks for re-visiting this issue yet again!

[Joe Satnik]

Yes, hunter,

You must do (or have someone else do) the cuts and mods.  The only other way is DCC (or MTH DCS).

If you could return the crossovers and buy two #6 rights and two #6 lefts, (or #5's), you would use insulating rail connectors between the pairs of turnouts.

The cuts and mods accomplish the same thing as the insulating rail connectors, ie separate the two ovals electrically. 

If you are afraid that making the cuts/mods will destroy the crossover's ability to go back to DCC, fear not.  Simply connect both ovals to the DCC unit while observing rail polarity.   

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[hunter2115]

Thanks. I'm gonna give it a try. I only need to cut the gaps and the one wire on each crossover unit, correct?

[Jhanecker2]

Hunter2115 : Breakdown and buy the Kalmbach Book Titled : Railroad Wiring Made Easy ,which gives you all the information you need to wire your layout in either DC or DCC it has very good diagrams and is well written. John 2

[Joe Satnik]

Hunter,

http://web.mac.com/msibnsf/iWeb/Acela%20Express,%20The%20Need%20For%20Speed/Modeling%20Techniques.html

Scroll down to bottom of page. 

The photos and diagrams (as well as my discussions) reference a left crossover. 

A right crossover would need a "mirror image" modification.   

Make the rail cuts as shown and described, simple enough.

Dave only shows one spot to disconnect the "feeder" underneath.  (A Large orange "X" marks the spot on his overhead diagram.)

Since he cuts both rails, I assume he also wants to disconnect both underside feeders for complete isolation.  (No common ground.) 

If my assumption is correct, then you should rotate the crossover 180 degrees and disconnect the feeder for the other side (now under the orange "X" after the rotation).

I'm not sure what he means by "Four farthest connections will be severed in turn".  Hold off on that for now. 

Using an Ohm-meter and visual inspection,

Check lower track connections:

The lower main track north rail (left side) should be (or remain) wired or connected to
the north points rail,
the north closure rail,
and the lower main track north rail ending on the right.  (No connection to the frog.)

The lower main track south rail (left side) should be (or remain) wired or connected to
the south points rail,
the south closure rail,
and the south rail to the left of the cut gap.   (Again, no connection to the frog.)

The closure rails are the non-moving rails between the moving points rails and the frog. 

The frog is where the north and south rails cross each other.

For now, the frog power wire should be insulated (wrapped up in electrical tape) and taped to the underside of the crossover.

Check uppper track connections:

Rotate crossover 180 degrees and repeat "Check lower track connections".

Using an Ohm-meter,

Check for Isolation:

Check that there are no connections between any of the four rails on the right.

Check that there are no connections between any of the four rails on the left.

Check that there are no connections between the four rails formed by the 2 cut rail gaps.

Check that there are no connections between the upper frog and any other rail.

Check that there are no connections between the lower frog and any other rail.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[hunter2115]

Thanks for the info. I'ts getting me to understand what needs to be done. I'm still leary about which wires get cut. Can anyone who has actually made this mod with the # 6 crossover (to DC) tell me exctly which wires need to be cut? A picture would be worth a thousand words!

[Len]

You mean after all this time Bachmann still doesn't include instructions for converting these things for straight DC power in the box? Sheesh!

Len

[D.Harrison]

Thanks for the info. I'ts getting me to understand what needs to be done. I'm still leary about which wires get cut. Can anyone who has actually made this mod with the # 6 crossover (to DC) tell me exctly which wires need to be cut? A picture would be worth a thousand words!

DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES...DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES...DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES

The cuts are made to the copper connecting strips..NOT THE WIRES.  There will be four cuts in all.

I've edited the website a little hopefully to make things clearer. Thanks guys for the recommendations.

David Harrison

http://web.mac.com/msibnsf/iWeb/Acela%20Express,%20The%20Need%20For%20Speed/Acela%20Express,%20The%20Need%20For%20Speed.html

[regnew]

David

i am another new comer trying to modify Bachmann #6 crossovers for DC use with two concentric ovals and two power packs.  I have followed your instructions on your website making each cut in the same location for each copper strip but after severing each of the four copper strips disconnecting the outermost parallel rail there is still connectivity between corresponding rails.  There is even continuity across the gaps in each crossover rail.  What did I do wrong?  I can reconnect any cut made using a small piece of wire and solder so that I can make any corrections as necessary.  Thanks for any other advice you may have to offer.

regnew