Cutting Filler Pieces

[EJELen]

Hello all you experts!!!!

This sounds pretty basic, but do any of you have experiece cutting filler sections out of stock 9" Bachmann EZTrack? Out layout is in need of three sections that cannot be made out of any existing filler sections. I've done this before on standard Atlas track, but not EZTrack.

Any sage advice? Thanks in advance for your input.

Len S.

[jayl1]

How long must the filler sections be?  If they are very short you could use regular track & put a styrene base under it to raise it to the level of the EZ track.  Also you could pop the EZ track off the base, cut it to length & cut the base as well.  Since there would not be a "joiner" on at least one end, you could super glue the short pieces to the EZ track.

[bevernie]

 :DGREETINGS!! I've also cut a piece of EZ TRACK and fixed it so that I could incorporate it into the layout with regular track, and thereby use both of them together.       Hope this helps!!!
                                                                                                THANX!!
                                                                                               Ernie
     

[EJELen]

jayl1, the pieces are about 7.5" long. I didn't realize the rails came off the gray roadbed. I'll have to take a look.

[Jim Banner]

For odd lengths from 9" down to about 2" you can cut a section out of the middle of a 9" length and fit the end pieces together, using track joiners for the rails and styrene glue for the base.  If you feel it needs it, you can add scraps of styrene inside the base to reinforce the joint.

For odd lengths less than about 2", you can cut a 9" section in half and add in a scrap of the desired length, making the two joints as above.  Or you can join two lengths cut from 9" sections so that the total length is your odd length plus 9".  This way is a little more expensive as you have to cut up two sections, but on the other hand, you have to make only one joint and it works even when the short straight is between two curves.

If you have never worked with flex track, there is one other thing you need to know.  When you join the rails of cut pieces, you need some space between the bottoms of the rails and the tops of the ties.  This can be cut with a fine tooth saw, such as an Atlas Hobby Saw.  The same saw does a fine job of cutting the rails and the plastic base too.

One last comment - don't throw away the cut off pieces.  You never know when future changes in the layout will require some more custom sized tracks.  (My wife says the only problem with my being a model railroader is that I never ever throw anything away because it might someday be useful on the railroad.)

[jayl1]

Since they are 7 1/2" long, why not cut a 1 1/2" section out of the middle of the roadbed & glue it back  together?  That way you would have the large plastic "clips" on each end of the roadbed.  You would also cut an equivalent section of rail & replace the metal rail joiner.

[EJELen]

All excellent ideas! Thanks for sharing your insight and experience.

Len S.

[Terry Toenges]

How about using a 4.5" and a 3"?

[Yampa Bob]

Terry has a good solution.  EZ Track is made in 2.25", 3", 4.5" and 9".  Using various combinations will also give you 5.25", 6.0", 6.75", 7.5", 8.25", 9.75", 10.5". (Note the .75" increments).

Imagine the other possibilities, if we only had the 2" straights. Of course, an assortment of 3/4", 1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2" and 2-1/2" would also be handy.

Free the 2's....

[Jim Banner]

Perhaps Len's local hobby shop, like mine, doesn't stock the small pieces.  Then cutting and joining are quicker and cheaper than ordering on line, paying a deliver charge, and waiting.

For example, 3 pieces of 9" from the LHS is 3 x $4 = $12.00, available now.
4 pieces of 3" plus 4 pieces of 4.5" plus delivery = $30.25 plus 2-4 weeks delivery if I order from a well known supplier who sells only in packages of 4.

[Joe Satnik]

Bob,

Glad someone reads my stuff. (I believe I've said that to you before.) 

Note that 2" is the practical lower limit of the length of HO EZ-Track due to the tab pockets underneath. 

Any idea what type of glue or cement works on the roadbed?

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Free the 2" Straights !

[Yampa Bob]

Joe,
I thoroughly read all your posts, usually several times. I'm beginning to think that some just skim my posts and miss the details, or don't read them at all. 

I think you're correct about the minimum length to preserve the locks. The pockets are not staggered enough for shorter lengths.

I just tried some Testor's #8872 on the back of a piece, seems to dissolve the plastic, so it must be some form of styrene.

As for separating the track, The Bach-man stated the ties are permanently bonded to the roadbed.  I tried removing the track from a damaged piece, and the result was not a pretty sight. 

Wish we lived closer so we could visit in person, I would enjoy that. 

[Joe Satnik]

Bob,

Have you ever tried to replace a rail connector with say, an Atlas 170?  Yeow.

Joe

[Joe Satnik]

Gee, Bob, I almost forgot.  It's getting late.  (CST)

Thanks for the kind words.

You do many interesting things and are becoming quite proficient at many more.

A scholar and a gentleman. 

Good night.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[bevernie]

Joe,
I thoroughly read all your posts, usually several times. I'm beginning to think that some just skim my posts and miss the details, or don't read them at all. 

I think you're correct about the minimum length to preserve the locks. The pockets are not staggered enough for shorter lengths.

I just tried some Testor's #8872 on the back of a piece, seems to dissolve the plastic, so it must be some form of styrene.

As for separating the track, The Bach-man stated the ties are permanently bonded to the roadbed.  I tried removing the track from a damaged piece, and the result was not a pretty sight. 

Wish we lived closer so we could visit in person, I would enjoy that. 



:DGREETINGS!! BOB, I agree with you... I wish a lot of us lived closer! For their own reasons, I guess, the local club seems to just snub their noses at me. It's much like what was said in another post about some hobby shops that don't want anything to do with you because you are "financially challenged"! I'm sorry, but I can't afford to do DCC (can you imagine what that would be with over 100 engines??), but I still enjoy playing with my trains! 
                                                                                     THANX!!
                                                                                    Ernie
                                                             (western)   North Carolina