Question about wood for HO kits

[lanny]

Hello all,

I am in the process of putting an 'older rolling stock kit' together. It is comprised of white metal detail parts, extruded aluminum shell (it's an old Holgate & Reynolds ('Three Brothers') bi-level commuter car) which has a wood base/underbody ('basswood', I am pretty sure).

I need to use 'sanding sealer' on the wood in order to get a smooth metal finish to the underbody. The LHS did not have any when I went there yesterday. Any suggestions for something that would be a good substitute? I need to seal the wood and sand it a couple of times to get a good, metallic look.

Thanks for any advice!

lanny nicolet

[Woody Elmore]

Wow - Holgate and Reynolds - haven't heard that name in a while.

Does your LHS sell flying  wooden flying airplane model? You can
use " airplane dope" to seal the wood.

I believe Scalecoat paint made a sanding sealer (they produced Quality Craft models) you might be able to contact them and have ship some out to you.

I have also heard of people using "Testor's dull cote" spray on bass wood. It will fill all the voids. Then use some fine sandpaper or 000 grade steel wool. Another thing I've heard used on wood is artist's acrylic matte medium. Thinned out it should work.

Good luck and enjoy the challenge. I have built many wooden kits over the years and there is always a feeling of satisafaction when you put the completed model on the track!

[LD303]

woodys suggestion to spray or brush coat the basswood with testors laquer is a good one, ive used both dullcote and glosscote to seal wood and it does work well,  you might need to use several coats even on the basswood, ive also tried the model airplane dope but i didnt get a very satisfactory result, you might also try painting on a primer coat and then sealing it with laquer...providing that you plan to use a finish coat that is compatiable with the laquer.  sanding in between coats will help make the wood ultra smooth.
    good luck and let us know how it turns out.

[Nigel]

Lanny;

You may also want to check with some wood stores, like those that supply cabinet and furniture makers.

[Rich R]

Lanny;

You may also want to check with some wood stores, like those that supply cabinet and furniture makers.

Lanny,

Nigel is right on. I used a lacquer based sanding sealer on wood ship models as a sealer to prevent warping. Also the first coat raises the "fuzz" on the wood and then a light sanding removes it. The second coat seals the wood.. If the model is not to be used in water you can use a clear lacquer sanding sealer as a final finish. It dries fast and can be sanded lightly between coats in about 30 minutes.
It's almost the same as clear model airplane butyrate dope, the real stuff. Pactra still makes it.. Smells as bad too and you should use it outdoors if possible.
Model AP dope is just much thinner and highly refined lacquer sanding sealer. Use any enamel or water based paint over it. Then again you could spray Floquil or Scalecoat with an airbrush but be careful with a rattle can unless you are really good with those. Too much could melt the lacquer and then you have a mess on your hands.
You should be able to locate  clear lacquer sanding sealer at any Home Depot, Lowes or Ace hardware store. Bad news? I could never find it in less than one quart cans. Lacquer thinner is the best thing to clean the brushes with by the way, Acetone works well but  it's nasty stuff to have in the house.
Another thought would be to try Krylon primer in a rattle can. I like the ruddy brown or the gray , the white seems a little too thin honestly.

Sorry to go on so long.
I know, Too much information.

Best
Rich R

[lanny]

Thanks all for the very helpful information on 'sanding sealer'. The advice is great.

Rich R., I don't agree with your comment: "Sorry to go on so long. I know, Too much information"  :-)  It's not "too much information" ... all of it and all that has been posted in answer to my question is very helfpul advice. Thanks all!

I will post a photo when I get the commuter car done ... I'm creating a Metra train for my son who used to live North of Chicago and often commuted to downtown work on the Metra. These are the last two cars that I need for the six car set pulled by a Spec. F40PH. The "Three Brothers" kits were evidently bought from 'Holgate & Reynolds' when they stopped producing kits ... but I don't think "3 Brotehrs" is in business anymore, either.

Anyway, the extruded aluminum shell is very nice, the white metal detail castings are 'so-so' as is probably pretty common with white metal castings. The kit does have Intermountain metal wheel sets for its delrin trucks ... a plus. And all of it sits on or is attached to the bass wood base. I used to build Ambroid and Quality Craft, etc, HO wood kits years ago and this kit's materials kind of reminds me of those.

Again, thanks all for very helpful information.

lanny nicolet

[Stephen D. Richards]

Outstanding suggestions here!  And (as the old folks say, that's me!) if push comes to shove, try linseed oil.  Can be coated as much as you want.  Just make sure it is dry and sand smooth between coats.  I use that process on fancy gunstocks.  Nice hard, durable and smooth finish!  Stephen

[lanny]

Stephen,

Wow! That's another one I hadn't thought of. When I used to paint houses during summer break from teaching, whenever I was confronted with bare, dry wood surfaces 9specially old window frames), I used lindseed oil to seal the wood before painting over it. It worked beautifully on the houses I painted. Never though about that for modeling!

Thanks!

lanny nicolet

[Woody Elmore]

Pardon my ignorance but doesn't linseed oil come in two forms - raw and boiled? Which is better to use on wood?

[Stephen D. Richards]

Either one but boiled is easier to use.  Just make sure it is dry then take four ought  (0000) steel wool and card (rub the daylights out of it) until smooth.  Use a chamie (Appalachian for Chamois) cloth or cotton with vey light mist of water to remove dust.  Let dry.  Works great on the wood I work with!  Takes several coats but you just have to judge the results by eye!    Stephen

[lanny]

Woody,

Stephen's reply is helpful to me as well.

In terms of what I did when painting a house was to buy a gallon of 'boiled linseed oil' to prime and seal old, cracked wooded frames, siding, etc. Some professional painters told me to 'cut it' 30 - 50% with mineral spirits. But I used it 'straight' and I can garuantee it gave really great and lasting results.

Now ... back to model railroading  ...  :-)

lanny nicolet