Track length.......

[English Muffin]

First post here, hope i get it out right.

I want to put a HO train set around my son's room (on a shelf near the seeling). His room is 9' X 10' so the track will be about 40' - 50'long . I am looking in to buying a set to start that comes with train, track, controller etc..... and then buying additional track to make up the lenth. My question is.... will the transformer a speed control put out ehough power for the whole track or will I have to get every thing seperate.

Any help would be great

Thank you

Andy

[the Bach-man]

Dear Andy,
A bigger power pack than the one in a starter set will be a good idea, but you will still need to run feeders to various points around the loop.  The loco will then pick up power from the closest feeder.
Happy Holidays!
the Bach-man

[English Muffin]

Thank you for the quick response. I am new to the hobby so if you could point me in the direction of some products that you talked about. Are the feeders actual track  sections with a terminal a connecter.....

Thanks in advanced

Andy

[English Muffin]

After posting my last comment I searched for feeders and found this thread......

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,6405.0.html

Is this the sort of thing you are talking about. I kinda like the idea of the buss wire for neatness. What are your thoughts on using terminals and wiring them to a buss/extension cord.

Can you suggest some bigger power packs please.

Andy

[Mike]

One of the best HO around the ceiling layouts I've seen had mirrors mounted at 45 degrees from the ceiling/wall joint to allow those below to see things better. It really worked well- Mike

[SteamGene]

Andy, there are three ways to connect feeder wires to tracks.  As expense goes down, complexity goes up!    The first is a piece of terminal track like you get in a train set.  It's a nine inch piece of track with what looks like a grade crossing and you run the wires to the terminals.  The second are sets of rail joiners with a wire attached.  Slip in the rail joiners, then join the wires to them to your feeder wires.  The third is to solder your feeder wires to the INSIDE of your track. 
With a room that size, you might want to consider flex track.  There are two reasons for flex track.  One, it's a lot less expensive than sectional track, even without roadbed.  Second, you may make the corner curves as broad as you want.  The broader the curve, the less chance of a derailment.
BTW, my standard for the feeder wires is one set of feeders every nine feet.  In other words, the center section of every three pieces of flex track or equivalent gets a feeder.  If, for some reason, I have several areas where, because of turnouts or something, I have many small pieces of track, I add additional feeders.
Gene

[Joe Satnik]

Dear Gene,

If you solder to the inside of the track rails, you run the risk of having a solder/wire blob that interferes with the wheel flanges, bouncing the car or de-railing it.  I suppose you could file the blob until the wheel flanges cleared.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[SteamGene]

Joe - I have no idea why I made that mistake.  OUTSIDE of the track.  OUTSIDE.  (And below the railhead.)
Gene

[the Bach-man]

Dear Andy,
MRC makes excellent power packs.
Most local hobby shops carry them.
Happy Holidays!
the Bach-man

[English Muffin]

First, thank you Bach-man, Joe, Mike and Gene for the great tips and suggestions. I have learnt so much in the last few days. I can't believe how much cheaper the flex track is than the EZ track. Will be posting some pics as I get building.

thanks again.

Andy

PS Merry Christmas to all. Allthe best for 2009

[English Muffin]

The link below shows how I would like it to look. My only concern is wiring the feeders. Is it best to wire them in order (MT to T6) or MT to T2 and them MT to T3.

www.hidesertbikes.net/toppage1.htm

Andy

[Joe Satnik]

Dear EM,

Consider doing your siding as a ladder instead, as it eliminates the "S" curve formed by the divergent route and the curve to get the siding back to parallel.  As an added bonus your siding will be longer.   

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Sorry it's backwards from your drawing.  The straight route of the turnout leads to the "siding" close to the wall.  The divergent route of the turnout leads to the main route far away from the wall.

Using 18" radius-30 degree (regular) curve sections, the Atlas "snap switch" or Bachmann "EZ-Track" remote switch would replace the last curve in the 90 degree corner.  It's a little more complicated with numbered switches.

What are the turnouts that you are using in your diagram?

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Edit: fixed ascii drawing, added "bonus" sentence      

[English Muffin]

I was planning on using Atlas 284 and 283 turnouts and then connecting them with flex track.

[Joe Satnik]

Dear All,

Just as a reference, the 283 and 284 turnouts are the left and right Atlas code 100 custom line #6 turnouts, 9.5 degree frog angle/angle of departure.  Metal frog can be powered.  Black ties, Nickel silver rails. 

EM,

You may have to change your corner shelf pieces if you use the ladder configuration..

Watch the parallel spacing between tracks.  At least 2" centerline to centerline.  (see nmra.org website.)

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik   

[English Muffin]

I want a part of the track to be 'parking spot' (right side of the diagram) for a train that im not running. I only want the spot to have power when I want to move the train on to the main thack (left side of diagram)

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Can the turnouts get power from the mian track when it comes into contact with it. I have heard some thing about 'frogs'. Can some one explain what these are and any other help with turnouts.

Thank You

EM.