Loss of DCC Power

[WGL]

 A few days ago, I added a third track to my layout.  I was happily running my F7A-B (powered) DCC with sound on the 42' outer track, my SD45 DCC on the 39' middle track, & a DC F7 on the 36' inner track.  I use E-Z Command with the 5 Amp booster plugged into the outer track.
  Today, I received a replacement of my BLI Heavy Mikado DC with sound.  I installed a DCC decoder.  The good news is that it now has the chuff sound.  For a while, I was running the F7A-B train on the outer track, the SD45 on the middle track & the Mikado on the inner track, enjoying its chuff & blowing its whistle.  Noticing that the pull bar had come loose, I removed the Mikado & followed YampaBob's suggestion of winding a 1/8" strip of electrical tape around the bottom of the locomotive's connecting pin to keep it in the hole in the pull bar.  I began running all 3 trains again, but suddenly they stopped.  After pressing their address buttons & moving the throttle, I got the trains on the outer & middle tracks to run at their normal speeds.  However, the inner track does not work for DCC.  I tried my DC F7, in vain.  When I ran a locomotive across the switch from the middle to the inner track, it stopped on the switch.  I disconnected the inner track from the rest, connected my DC power pack to it, & tried the DC locomotive.  It ran. 
  I thought I was all set to run 3 trains simultaneously.  I need some electrical expert advice.

[Yampa Bob]

With all that track I think you need more power feeds. Do you have a test light or DMM to check for power on all the loops?

I know I sound like a stuck record, but you need one or both of these:

http://www.multimeterwarehouse.com/dt830bf.htm

http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/69134.html

The light tester is more expensive, but much easier to use. I keep one at the layout at all times.

[WGL]

Bob,
  I looked up your link.  I just dug into my toolbox & found a tester, but it is for 90-600 volts!  It did not light when I touched the two pins to my tracks.

  I have the power booster connected to the outer track.  I wonder how I could wire it to both the outer & inner tracks.  When I have an electrical problem, I call an electrician.  It's cheaper than electrocution.   

[Jim Banner]

A grain-of-wheat bulb from the hobby shop makes a good tester to see if your tracks are live.  As far as how to make connections to your inner loops, first please tell us what kind of track you are using.

Not too much chance of electrocution with the low voltage DCC puts on your rails, although a forearm damp with sweat may feel a slight tingle if laid across the track.

[Joe Satnik]

Dear WGL,

DCC track voltages shouldn't hurt you. 

An automotive tail light bulb with one wire soldered to the tip and the other to the metal base would work well as a test lamp.  (A tail lamp is a heavier load than a grain of wheat bulb, which is a better approximation of an engine under load.)

Touch one wire to one rail and the other wire to the other rail. 

Contact the "Happy Grandparents" train show people.  They should know some local train modelers that are skilled in troubleshooting track continuity problems and skilled in troubleshooting DCC.

You're welcome to call, I'm in the book.   

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik   

[WGL]

Jim,
I have Walthers PowerLoc track--except for where I connect my E-Z Command Power Booster to the outer track.  There, I have an E-Z Track re-railer flanked by PowerLoc adapters.   I couldn't use the cable from my E-Z Command, because the booster has just bared wires at its ends, instead of a jack & plugin connector.  My inner track has a PowerLoc rerailer with electrical plugs.  For now, I've disconnected the inner track from the rest & plugged my DC power pack into it to run my Spectrum S-45.
  I will try moving the E-Z Track rerailer to the middle oval of track.  Some of you can probably tell me whether or not halving the distance between the power connection & the inner track will work to serve all 3 tracks.
  Thanks for telling me how to test the track & make a tester.  I did not get a chance to check Radio Shack for a low-voltage tester today.
  Thanks, Joe.  I just checked the ad for the Happy Grandparents' Show here next April & found their address & phone number on the back.

[Jim Banner]

WGL, I think you are on the right track.  One or more power feeds to each of your ovals should cure your problem.  Relying on turnouts to carry power from one oval to another can be troublesome.  There are connections hidden inside turnouts to connect the power to all the turnout tracks.  These connections tend to fail, and I suspect that is the problem you are having. 

[WGL]

Bob,
I found a Sperry 5-50 low voltage tester at the local Fleet Farm for $5.  So, you have made a convert. 
Jim,
  I had suspected the switch between the middle & inner tracks.  The tester glowed strongly halfway through the switch but went dark on the rest.  I replaced the switch, & now I have DCC power through all 3 tracks!  You were right about the problem being in the switch.  The implication is that reducing the number of switches reduces the power failures.
  Is there something akin to a signal splitter into which I could connect the cables from the E-Z Command Power Booster & out to two locations?
Bill

[Yampa Bob]

Congratulations on getting a light tester.  Now for a few bucks you can have the other "tool" you need, a continuity tester, very handy for locating loose connections, broken wires, etc with track power off.

Pick up a standard 9 volt battery at Radio Shack, and a battery connector with wire leads. Wire the connector in series with one lead of your light tester with a wire nut and connect the battery.  If you touch the loose battery connector lead to the other lead of the light tester, the light comes on.  A continuity tester is very handy for tracing wiring and track connections. (again, with track power OFF).

Take the battery with you if looking for used locos at shows or auctions to verify a loco actually runs. (A tip from GG).

[WGL]

  Thanks, Bob.  I copied your instructions.