feeders to buss wire

[SteamGene]

I've found on this forum that one can get good answers to a lot of questions.  I've also found that a lot of people do well with one technique that another finds awful.  Trtack clealing, track fastening, and sub-roadbed are just some of the areas where there are 20 correct answers.   
What about fastening the feeder wires to the buss wire?  Strip and solder, or use a suitcase clip? 
Why?
Gene

[Nathan]

Gene,

Yes, this is going to be another hot topic.

I solder when there is very little chance of having to make changes and use 'crimp' connections where there is a good chance for changes.  I have also soldered 'crimp' connections and had very little problems.

If you can solder properly, it takes time to learn, you generaly get a good solid connection.  I myself have problems quite often getting a good 'crimp' connection, but then I use a low cost crimp tool.  When I have had access to a 'professional' crimp tool I generaly get better connections the first time.

All of our club's trains show layouts use 'crimp' connections, quite often makeing them as we need them.

Nathan

[brad]

SteamGene,

   I'd have to tell you to solder. It makes a very positive connection with no chance of corrosion or oxidation affecting the conductivity of the wire, which could lead to signal degredation on large DCC layouts. I HATE suitcase connectors and cringe everytime I crawl under the dash of a car to see an alarm, stereo, or remote start hacked into a vehicle using them. While I agree they are easy(?) to use, cutting a feed wire and stripping the bus somewhere else to make a connection isn't that hard. Soldering is a very easy thing to learn with some wire and a roll of solder, my Dad taught me when I was 10. I have a very ggod pair of crimp connectors for work (they are expensive to buy) and use them a lot in areas subject to vibration/flex but i solder all critical circuits no matter where they are.

Just my opinion, brad

[NelsOn-30]

Mechanical connections are prone to corrosion and
inadequate physical contact. Either of these can create
trouble shooting nightmares.

Soldering, if done correctly, provides a permanent
trouble free mechanical and electrical connection.

The following tips should help.

The wires to be soldered should be as clean as
practical for the solder to flow.

The wires should be joined together to provide a
good mechanical connection. Do not rely on a
blob of solder to hold things together.

Hold the soldering iron against the connection
and test the temperature by applying rosin core
(not acid) solder sparingly to the junction between
the iron and splice. When the solder starts to flow
add only enough extra solder to completely fill the
contact areas between the wires.

Important â€" Do not move the connection while the
solder is cooling. Movement can crystallize the solder
and compromise the conductivity.

All that remains is to insulate the connection to
prevent unwanted shorts. Tape, shrink tubing (plan
ahead) or brush on thick liquid all work.

I hope this helps.


                                          

[Hunt]

Solder is best… if your soldering skills are up to doing it right.

If your soldering skills are questionable, then use the proper size "suitcase clip." (a.k.a. suitcase connector.) If you are trying to buy and the person helping does not recognize what you want then ask for Self-Stripping Electrical Tap Connector. Tap connectors come in different sizes depending on the wire gauge being connected. Be sure to get correct size.

When using tap connectors, if you can, use them with solid wire not stranded.

The AWG of the bus and the feeders is as important as the type of connection. Be sure to match the feeder’s AWG to its length.

[Jim Banner]

I have to agree with Brad and others - solder is the way to go.  If your soldering skills are not up to par, spend some time and practice until they are.  Over all, you will spend less time learning to solder properly than trouble shooting non-soldered joints.

[SteamGene]

My soldering skills are not great.  My club uses suitcase connectors.  One formal electrical chairman noted "If suitcase connectors are good enough for the Space Shuttle, they ought to be good enough for CB&W." 
This is why I'm asking.
Gene

[brad]

I noticed that he is the "former electrical chairman" I doubt that there is a suitcase connector anywhere in NASA They do not provide a weather proof seal and if the small fold over clip holding the thing shut should come undone the wires can come out and ...................

I forgot to mention that when soldering the feeder to the bus, strip about a 1/4 inch of  insulation off the bus, then strip about 1 inch from the feeder. Twist the feeder around the bus good and tight and then solder. It is a very good joint and you don't need 3 hands to hold the two wires, a soldering iron and the solder.

brad

[SteamGene]

Brad,
I comment only on what I know.  I will pass on things sent to me.  I know several members of the club who know far more about electronics than I do who hold the "former chair" in awe. 
As I said, my question may well set off a storm.
Gene

[the Bach-man]

Dear All,
I was never happy with my soldering ability, but I found out that my problem was using the wrong materials and equipment. When I built the two display laypouts, I bought correct solder and flux from Micro Mark. I now have no problems, and even actually enjoy soldering!
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[Hunt]

Gene,
Most of the folks I know who have built new layouts or modified wiring of a layout in the last five years have used the suitcase connector. All have been in model railroading for decades and have excellent soldering skills. None have had a problem due to the connectors to date.  All the layouts are in air conditioned rooms.

This type of connector makes needed wiring changes very easy and convenient when working in small space.

[Seasaltchap]

..... and what do you do when you become proficient?

Move on to Etched Brass/Nickel Silver Kits for some really unique items on your layout.

[daveb]

 A "Suitcase Connector" is what is known as an IDC or Insulation Displacement Connector, which principle is used for all ribbon connectors used in computers and other electronic equipment and has been proven to be reliable over many years. Although the suitcase is a simple form of this type there is no reason for it to be any less reliable, provided it is from a reputable manufacturer. I believe that 3M were the originator of this type of connector. NASA may not use the suitcase type but I am sure they must have many connectors using the IDC principle.

Dave

[Seasaltchap]

What is the consensus for layouts that need to be knocked-down for transporting viz. to exhibitions?

Is the Bus to still be continuous wiring?

Are the connections between the boards to be soldered. or are there acceptable connectors for the job?

[Nathan]

You might check the N-Trak web site, they have several good items on wiring 'portable' layouts.  The new connector they are now using could even handle large scale trains.

Nathan