I THINK FORNEY DIED

[rghcowner]

I RECENTLY ADDED SOUND TO MY DCC DECODER EQUIPED On30 FORNEY AND IN THE EXCITEMENT OF THE MOMENT I OVERELOOKED A COUPLE OF BARE WIRE COMING OFF THE REAR TRUCK.
WHAT GREAT SOUND UNTIL ALL OF A SUDDEN NOTHING!! NO LIGHTS, NO SOUND, NO MOVEMENT.
I'M THINKING I FRIED EVERYTHING BECAUSE EVEN WITH THE DC PLUGS REINSTALLED IN THE FACTORY BOARD THERE IS NO SIGN OF LIFE.
ARE THESE BOARDS AVAILABLE AS REPLACEMENTS AND IF SO HOW DO I OBTAIN ONE OR SHOULD I JUST TAKE IT OUT AND HARDWIRE A NEW DECODER?
THANKS FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN OFFER.

[Yampa Bob]

Well, first it would help if you didn't use all caps.  In internet jargon, that's referred to as "shouting".

You need to provide more information, such as brand of controller and sound decoder.  Just because the loco quit is no reason to suspect the board is "fried".

Unplug the controller power supply from the AC wall socket to let it reset. Remove all locos, check the track wiring and all connections.  Power the controller, try running another loco.  You mentioned "bare wires", check all the loco wiring.

Power the track with a conventional DC controller, then check for track power with a digital voltmeter.  Use an ohmmeter to confirm continuity of all connections, wipers, motor wiring, etc. Systematic troubleshooting should isolate the problem.

For model railroaders, a multimeter is not a luxury, I consider it an absolute necessity.  This may sound a bit snobbish, but I believe that if you don't have a multimeter, you shouldn't be running trains.  A $20 or less investment will save a lot of frustration and headaches.

[pdlethbridge]

I think the same way Bob, if you don't fly fish, you ain't fishing

[Jim Banner]

When somebody asks me to come over and help them with their railroad, there are three things I slip into my pocket:
- a track and wheel gauge,
- a coupler gauge, and
- a test light.

With these three I find I can diagnose about 90% of the problems.  And yet the majority of model railroaders don't have any of them, let alone all three. 

I will admit that I keep a low cost DVM in my tool box and several more at home.  But in most cases, I reach for a test light first.  A #53 bulb from the auto store with two wire leads soldered on is the most basic form.  Add a couple of insulated alligator clips and shrink some clear tubing over the bulb to insulate it and protect it from rough handing and you have the deluxe version for about two bucks total.

Such a test light (or a meter) would allow rghcowner to know whether or not he needs a new board or if cleaning up a contact somewhere will solve the problem.     

[rghcowner]

Thanks for all the basic info. Rather than boring all to tears I omitted detailed explanations about all the tests made prior to posting the question "Does Bachmann sell replacement boards for decoder ready On30 forneys and if so does anyone know where to obtain them?
Thanks again for you time and input.

[Yampa Bob]

"Owner",
I assure you that Jim, I, and others never get bored with detailed explanations.  We don't know your abilities or knowledge of electronics unless you tell us, so we often have to fill in the blanks, starting with the basics.

There is one item I don't have, but intend to obtain one, and that is a decoder tester.  I've not had it happen, but I imagine it is frustrating to hard wire a decoder only to discover it is defective from the factory.

If you think the decoder is ok, you might want to hard wire it as you suggested.  That would probably be quicker than trying to obtain a new board.

[Jim Banner]

For both rghcowner and Yampa Bob:

A decoder tester is simple to make and will probably take less time to assemble than the time it otherwise takes to solve one of these mysterious decoder problems.

To build a decoder tester:

Start off with a 12 point strip, either solder points or screw terminals.  Mount the strip on a board or a small box.

Terminal 1 - connect a red wire from terminal 1 to one output of your command station/ booster.

Terminal 2 - connect a black wire from terminal 2 to the other output of your command station/ booster.

Terminal 3 - connect an orange wire from terminal 3 to one side of a small 12 volt dc motor (could be one from a wrecked locomotive.)

Terminal 4 - connect a grey wire from terminal 4 to the other side of the small motor.

Terminal 5 - connect a blue wire to terminal 5.

Terminal 6 through terminal 11 - connect one side of a 12 - 16 volt grain of wheat bulb to each of these terminals.

Connect the other side of all 6 grain of wheat bulbs to the blue wire.

To use your decoder tester:

Connect the red, black, orange, grey, and blue wires of your decoder to terminals 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5 of your decoder tester (match decoder wire colours to the colours already connected to these terminals.)

Connect the decoder function outputs (e.g. white, yellow, green, violet etc.)  each to a grain of wheat bulb terminal.  If your decoder uses pads, temporarily add wires.

You can also permanently wire an 8 pin and a 9 pin socket to the terminal strip so that you can conveniently plug in decoders equipped with matching plugs.

With decoder and command station/booster connected, you can program and "run" your decoder just as if it was installed in a locomotive.

Some command station/boosters, for example the Zephyr, have separate track and programming outputs.  For these, add a double pole double throw switch to allow you to switch the red and black wires either to the track outputs or to the programming outputs.  This is the only area where I have had problems with my own decoder tester - after programming a decoder, I sometimes forget to throw the switch and sit there wondering why the decoder won't run the motor and the lights.

One thing I really like about my decoder tester is that when I buy a bunch of decoders, I can test them one after another to make sure they actually work.  If one does not, it is pretty hard for the manufacturer to claim I damaged it by mis-wiring it, particularly if it is part of a batch of identical plug-in decoders.

[Yampa Bob]

Jim
That's a great idea.  However I have reached a point in life where I have to weigh the money saved against my time (and nerves/eyes), so I am considering one of these:

http://www.ulrichmodels.biz/servlet/the-273/Decoder-Testor/Detail?sfs=519e0e54

There is a common mistake on the page regarding the JST adapter harness. It refers to a decoder with a JST 9 pin "female" connection.  It may look female, but it is actually "male".  Anyway, I already have several adapters left over from DH123, and a bunch of "hook on" probes with wires I can solder onto a 8 pin plug. All that will save me about $25.

The first installation note in the Tsunami manual is "Test the decoder first". I have spent a lot of time visiting with their tech support, they are very patient and helpful and gave me some "inside" information many may not be aware of. 

Thanks

[Jim Banner]

The Ulrich tester looks like a good option for those that prefer a ready-to-run unit, and the price seems reasonable.  My gut reaction is to test a motor output with an actual motor but my head says that the Forward and Reverse LEDs on the Ulrich unit should let you know that the outputs are working just as well.

[rghcowner]

Thank you gentalmen for some great and thoughtful information. It is the people, not the activity, that makes a hobby great.
Thanks again.

[Yampa Bob]

You're welcome.

We hope you solve the problem.  Please keep us posted with an update.