Please help a new person at this with track securement.

[corey9212]

Hello, I have a model railway laid out and up untill now I was useing it with the track just lieying on the surface. But after a few problems with the track moving when the train goes over it I decided to TRY and secure the track to the board. I went out and bought some cork to lay under that track (cause that was what I was told that I would need) cut it and laid it under the track, I go and start nailing the track down and after a while I found that the track was starting to get uneven (it would go up and down, and lose it's original shape) plus I was having trouble when the nail head would become flesh with the top of the rail (and could bairly get it to go in the rest of the way.) Can someone please give me step by step instructions on how to secure the track to the base or point me in the right direction on how to do it.
BTW I also checked around and unfortunately there is not model rail club around where I live, so I'm pretty much on my own here.

Thanks in advance.

Corey.

[pdlethbridge]

Corey, welcome to our group. Its always a good idea to secure the track. What track are you using? If its atlas, each piece has three nail holes. If your using cork roadbed under the track, a 1/2" nail will be good enough to hold the track on the plywood base. Carefully use a nail set to put the nail almost touching the tie. The track should float a bit. I don't nail down switches but I make sure that each piece of track connected at the switch is nailed. Use a straight edge to keep straight sections straight, and use a compass to mark the radius for your curves. If your track is bumpy, make sure the cork is flat and no nails sticking up in the cork. Check to make sure each rail joiner connection is made correctly or you'll have a dead spot or a bump. Many of use have had this problem, I had it the other day.

[Rangerover]

Hello Corey, the track is the most important part of trouble free model railroading so take your time and then you only have to do it once. I don't know what you have your layout on, plywood, styrofoam, homasote, etc. I used homasote roadbed glued on plywood and I merely pushed the spikes through with a pair of pliars. If your using styrofoam I would think a water base adheasive or some use latex caulking compound for the track and roadbed. On plywood with cork roadbed I would use contact adheasive to glue the cork to the plywood and then use the track nails with the nail set as the above poster stated. All track sections should be soldered on the outside of the rail. Depending on the size of your pike you may have to install a buss line to carry the current to the further reaches of your track. Also temperature and humidy must be taken into consideration especially in areas of hot to cold climates. You must allow a gap where the rails join each other to allow for expansion and contraction, cause they will move.

[corey9212]

Hello and thanks for the welcome, First yes it is Atlas tracks, under that is the cork, under that is artificial turf (the fake green grass.) then under that is plywood for the table.  I have the right size of nails for it. How many nails do I use for each track section? I was putting one at each end of the track, the cork is perfectly flat. My problem is comming from where each track joins it makes a dip cause of it being nailed down. I am going to solder the tracks after I get them assembled. If you have 'The Atlas Beginner's Guide to HO MODEL RAILROADING' Book #9 the setup I'm useing is the one on page 40 and 41 (also called 'The Yardmaster') But I'm thinking about modifying it so there is two yards and a mainline.

[Yampa Bob]

The dip at the joints is probably caused by overdriving the nails. The problem with plywood,  it is difficult to pull the nail up a bit if overdriven. You might want to invest in a spike puller, flush end nippers will also work.

As mentioned above, the rails should float a little up and down.   

[pdlethbridge]

It may be that the nails holding the track are too tight. They shouldn't bend the tie or it will change the gauge of the track and cause derailments. If the track is laid correctly, you'll have years of trouble free operation without having to solder the joints. When we built my brothers layout 20+ years ago, Most joints were left unsoldered and the layout works great today. We only soldered joints on curves where we used flex track. The nails should hold the track down but let it float a little. I  use a piece of paper folded in half to check the nails. If I can slide the paper under the track, and the nail is firm but there is a gap between it and the tie, its fine. Overtight nails will distort the track. Also use the center hole to nail into, Just don't make them too tight.

[corey9212]

so should I use all 3 holes or just the middle hole?

[pdlethbridge]

use what ever it takes to keep the track down. Just don't have the nails too tight and don't have the track so loose that they become separated.

[SteamGene]

You are using sectional track, right?  Do make sure that each section is joined.  After sliding the pieces together, run your finger over the joint, both ways.  It should slide smoothly back and forth.  Otherwise you have a rail resting ON the joiner and not IN the joiner.
You mention plywood, grass mat, cork roadbed, track.  If you have the cork roadbed on top of the mat you may have created a problem.  I'd lay the cork on top of the mat, then cut the mat so the cork lies directly on the plywood. 
Gene

[corey9212]

Thank you guy's so much for the information, I just have one more question. I did some research and found out I can do my layout (a little bit modified) useing EZ track from Bachmann, how easier would it be to use that and then nail that to the board? and what size of nail would I use? Advantages and dissadvantages about useing EZ track  compaired to the track I'm useing now? Yes I'm using sectional track, I found that (and this was before I even started to nail the track down the first time) the connections were not smooth, I checked, double checked and even tripple checked all the connections were laying in the joiners (not on.) I was told all the track was the same guage, what could cause that.

Thanks a bunch again.

Corey.

P.S. It's guy's like you that make a new person feel welcome to model railroading and feel like we can do it even if we are totally beginners. I just hope that in the future I will have enough knowledge to help new people as well.

[pdlethbridge]

Price wise, stick with Atlas.

[grumpy]

For the ease of laying track for your layout EZtrack is the quickest to get you running with fewer start-up problems. My whole layout is EZTrack . It was done for the ease of installation. Accessories for flextrack are easily adaptable to EZTrack. I think you will find more and more modelers are using EZTrack. If you are a rivet counter it would be hard to justify using it.
Don

[chuff_n_puff]

corey9212, I know exactly what you are going through and it can be a real headache. I also went to EZ track, but it didn't matter whether it was screws or nails, it was a warped up mess and a derail nightmare. I finally ripped out everything and started over. But this time I used a hot glue gun to secure my EZ track roadbeds and I have had no more problems, except with crossovers, and that was another nightmare. I finally done away with all crossovers, as all "opinions" I tried just didn't work. There seems to be not enough depth in the frog for a smooth transfer. Plus you are asking for a short out nightmare with blown decoders, if you are running DCC. Also soldering joints can create problems with continuity, as expansion will break soldered connections. I developed a horse shoe shaped bronze wire connection I soldered at each joint. It allows the joint to expand and keep it's continuity. I just soldered the legs straddled the joint. You just have to experiment what works for you. I also used a continuous 18 gauge jumper wire around track, but it was a soldered mess at each connection. I finally cut it all loose and went with the horse shoe wires. They are about the gauge of a human hair, easy to solder and practically invisible. The main thing is don't get aggravated. Quit, calm down, go back and try again. Happy railroading!

[Woody Elmore]

Corey - i have mentioned several times that I have friends who use silicone caulking to secure track. It doesn't take much, just a bead done the middle of the track and since the silicone never hardens it is possible to reposition track.

Bachmann EZ track has the advantage of coming with ballast so it looks a lot more realistic.

Some modelers prefer Atlas sectional track, others use long three foot sections. There are even people who hand lay track.

My advice is to find one kind that you like for appearance or price. Just remember that Atlas track should be mounted on road bed. You can buy cork roadbed.

[Rangerover]

Corey....visit a Local Hobby Shop and purchase a basic "how to" magazine for beginners on model railroading.