e-z track layouts

[acemanjay]

hi im planning on building a new layout and the space i have is 6 1/2 by 11 1/2 feet and i was hoping somebody could help me with a layout plan i would like to beable to run atleast 2 trains at once and have 2 different levels

    thanks for everybodys help

[WoundedBear]

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=1921



Sid

[Jhanecker2]

In addition you might also consider " 101 track Plans " published by Kalmbach  Publishing .  Also additional track plans are available in several Track Plan Books published by Atlas Model Railroad . Good Reading .

[acemanjay]

i just got the new e-z track book and im not that happy with the track plans that it comes with since i run mostly passeneger trains im looking for some layout plans for that

[acemanjay]

does anybody know of any online sites that show different layout plans

[Paul M.]

If you run mostly passenger trains, you might just make an oval with several stations, a passing siding, and possibly a small passenger yard. You could also do what I did, and just lay down the main line, and work out the sidings later.

[acemanjay]

well i wanted a lil more then just an oval and sidings

[pdlethbridge]

you could use this, its free and modify to fit your space
http://www.atlasrr.com/righttrack.htm

[Jim Banner]

acemanjay, you haven't given us much to work with.  Size 6-1/2' x 11-1/2' - is that table size or room size?  If it is room size, then you are looking at an around the wall layout to give you longest running length or a small table layout.

Two levels is a great idea but do you want them interconnected?  If they are two separate tracks, you can put them any vertical distance apart that the height of the room will allow.  But if you want to run from one level to the other as well as on both levels, then about 6 inches apart vertically is all you can get if you use a transition track that is once around the room at 2% grade.  To get more vertical displacement, you would need either a steeper grade (and multiple locomotives on each train) or more trips around the room or a helix.  Faced with a similar problem on my own layout, I chose to increase the grade, even though it means adding extra locomotives for a trip up the big hill.  If you like hands-on operation, this is a neat feature but if you just like to sit back and watch the trains run, it can be a pain.

A track that runs four times around the room (once at the low level, once at the high level, once going up from low to high level and once going down from high level to low level) would give you about 100 feet of main line.  As far as towns go, four would fit comfortably.  One larger one along the long wall of the room at the higher level and another larger one along the opposite long wall of the room at the lower level would allow some switching in these towns.  A whistle stop on the rising track and another on the descending track at the ends of the room would bring you up to four towns.  They could be spaced about 20, 20, 20 and 40 feet apart which gives some running room.

Now that sort of arrangement means a lot of tracks in a relatively narrow space (16" to 24" wide.)  To reduce the confusion, it would be best if not all of them showed all of the time.  Where the towns are, I would suggest that the three tracks not serving the town be out of sight, either in tunnels below or behind the towns or at least masked by trees.  Between towns, give preference to the upper and lower tracks when it comes to visibility but make sure that the ascending and descending tracks are visible often enough that you can always see at least one end of a train using them.

This is only a suggestion about one possible approach to designing your layout.  Once you have decided on a general plan, then it is time to fire up the computer and use track layout software of the sort pdlethbridge suggest.

[Par]

Here are a couple of examples of 4x8 layouts I'm debating between currently.

Time period wise I'm thinking 1920's to 1930's so smaller steam engines with 40' and possibly 50' cars are what I'd be running on the layout.  I mention the time period because it has an impact on layout design considerations...  If you're wanting to model more modern equipment or larger steam engines you'll find that a shelf layout is a better option for the larger radius curves

The first 4x8 is what I'm currently trying out. The starting point for inspiration was the Atlas plywood summit layout... It's basically an up and over figure eight.



The station and DPM modular building are intended to be fairly tall to help divide the layout into a couple of scenes. 

The drawback I've found is the 3% grades with 18" radius curves.  My 2-8-0 will pull 6 to 7 cars up the grade.  Any more cars and I see wheel slip.  My proto 0-6-0 is borderline pulling 2 to 3 cars up that grade.

Another layout  that's using buzzard's cove/maggie's cove as inspiration that I might try is ths one...



The left side would have cuts in the scenery to help hide the curve where as the right side would have a pier and structures to help hide or breakup the curve. In the middle a hill  could help divide the layout's coastal side from the passing siding on the opposite side.

Operations wise I don't get as large a "yard" as I do with the figure eight but I also don't have to worry about grades so it's a bit of a trade off.

Both layouts give me the opertunity to extend the layout if I have more space in the next house.

Take it easy
Par

[acemanjay]

where did you get those file from par ??

[Par]

The layouts were made using the right track software pdlethbridge suggested.

"http://www.atlasrr.com/righttrack.htm"

Because EZ track isn't in the right track software the layouts are designed with true track which is similar size wise for the purpose of planning.  In a few places I've cut some pieces of code 100 track as fitters while trying the layout out.

The software is addictive I was tinkering with the figure eight plan while watching tonights debate.

Take it easy
Par

[acemanjay]

ok thanks alot

[Joe Satnik]

Jay,

You still haven't answered Jim's question:  "is that table size or room size?"

Jim Banner's "around the room" suggestions are superb (as usual), but I'm going to guess that your dimensions are for a half a spare room or half a bedroom that you want to put a table in.

(Warning: old repeated advice)

If you can get away with it, start with 5 foot table width.  This will allow up to 28" radius curves and give some growing room to a 4'x8' track plan. 

Ping-Pong tables are 5'x9', and can usually be found used in the "thrifties" classified newspaper ads for a reasonable price.

Your 6.5' dimension would leave 1.5' for walking on one side.  Slide your table out, or put it on casters and roll it out, to gain access to the wall side.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik       

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

Ping-Pong tables are 5'x9', and can usually be found used in the "thrifties" classified newspaper ads for a reasonable price.

Gosh, do they still make ping-pong tables?