Graphite paints

[ajp3751]

Last year I purchased a spectrum 2-8-0 (best steam loco purchase ever), but the beautiful quality of the engine reminded me of the lower quality of my older IHC models. On the spectrum (AT&SF 2526) the firebox, smokebox, and rods are painted in a graphite paint. I would like to paint my other models with the same color (if available) or a similar graphite to cover the hideous fake chrome look.

Would testors offer a paint like this or any other modeling paint company?

[Dr EMD]

Check their Model Master series paint.

Testor brought Floquil and Pactra into their family a few years back.
Everything is now "Testor".

[Santa Fe buff]

I do believe that is because Testor makes excellent paints and what not.

[Yampa Bob]

Try light gray, with a bit of silver mixed in to give it a metallic look, or silver with a bit of gray mix, depending how light you want it.  Anything will look better than the chrome.

A friend of mine uses flat brass for the main drive rod and crosshead, looks great.   

I agree on the Spectrum 2-8-0, I have 4 of them now and couldn't be more pleased.   

[BaltoOhioRRfan]

i use UP Harbor Mist for smoke boxes, looks very close to my 2-8-0's front boxes(its a tad darker i think, i cant remember)

[WoundedBear]

Check out the Testors line of "Metalizer" laquers.

http://www.testors.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=41

http://www.testors.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=40

Sid

[ajp3751]

Thanks for the advice on color. The next question is to tape off the other part and use a air painter, or to just brush it on?

[grumpy]

With a little caution a spraypainter will do a much better job than brushing.
Don

[Rashputin]

     I pretty much stick to an airbrush and Floquil paints.  I vary my smokebox graphite based on how weathered I want it.  I have used a base graphite mix and weathered later but I found it was a time saver to vary the mix.  At any rate, I mix 1/3 Floquil Gunmetal and 2/3 Pacemaker Gray if I want something like an engine just out of the paint shop, and 1/2 Gunmetal and 1/2 Tarnished Black if I want something with about average weathering.  Either one gives sort of a medium grey cast with a metalic hue rather than a shine.  If you shake them well and airbrush them at a few pounds higher pressure than normal, the Gunmetal tends to spread under the Gray and give a very thin and even coating of the mix.  I like some of the light gray colors as far as the color but they haven't the metallic gloss you can get with Gunmetal (not a shine, a bit of gloss from angles other than 90 degree intervals).  Gunmetal WILL seperate from the paint it's mixed with if you don't use it right away, but you have plenty of time to get it into your cup and take your time airbrushing.  Just don't mix it, let it sit for a half-hour or so, and then brush it without shaking it again.

     You should, IMHO, at least try the Gunmetal with whatever shades of black or gray you think is best.  Even if you use a lighter gray with 1/4 or less gunmetal you end up with a much nicer finish than with the color alone.  Be forewarned, a lot of people think the Gunmetal is "too blue", but it is supposed to replicate a pale blued steel.  It does that very, very, well and with darker colors mixed in, it matches metals from my dark blued M1 Garand barrel to something like newly blued stainless steel headers.

     Sorry for the long winded response, but I had several folks wanting details of how I got my smoke boxes just so only last week.  I figured I'd tell you the whole story like I did them in case you were interested.

     Regards,

      R Hume

[Yampa Bob]

I have a friend in Iowa who does spectacular custom detailing and painting on locomotives.  I asked him what type airbrush he used, he said he didn't have time to mess with them, just used the 3 ounce spray cans. 

I have about 50 pure sable brushes, as fine as 5/0, some over 30 years old.  Floquil flows so evenly that even with a brush, I get good results.

A bit of caution, always wear a face mask and have lots of ventilation.  I spent many years painting with butyrate dopes and Testors enamels. The fumes accumulate and stay in the lungs. 

[Woody Elmore]

Floquil and Scale Coat contain xylene which is nasty stuff if inhaled. Use of  a mask may be a good idea if you spray those brands.

I've seen masterful paint jobs done with good brushes and a lot of care.

Incidentally, I don't think that there is any one silver or aluminum paint that will work in every case. Look at the smoke box doors on SP engines - always a nice shiny silver (probably aluminum paint.)  Then take a look at a PRR K-4. The smokebox front is a darker gray - lots of graphite in the paint.

The same goes for red on cab roofs or tender decks. It was usually a color called red lead oxide but the color varied from railroad to railroad.