Beginner's Questions

[WGL]

 I still have two Marx train sets my parents bought me in the early '50s.  I guess they are called "tinplate" & seem to be about O size.  I decided to try scale model trains & chose HO, because it is almost 50% smaller than my old trains & fits better into a room.  We have a finished basement with a low-pile carpet.  I set up my old trains in the largest room, but I will remove them as my HO layout grows.  I have space for about 6'x13' of track.  At a local department store, I found a Stock Car Express HO train set by Walthers.  It has a passenger style diesel locomotive, 5 boxcars, a caboose, & 12' of power-loc track.  I bought it for $46; Walthers' website prices it at $90.  The only thing I don't like is that they have NASCAR logos, instead of genuine railroad logos.  Eventually, I want to get a freight locomotive & get passenger cars for the locomotive that I have.
   
   The nearest hobby shop is a 50+ mile long round trip, so I can't drop in whenever I have questions & want to compare products.   So far, I haven't found much information for beginners that answers my basic questions.

   I just ordered 6' of Ezlock track & then wondered whether or not it is compatible with my power-loc.  I like the track that comes with its own roadbed, but it is expensive.  Is Flex track cheaper?  Does it require making a roadbed?

   Do you put freight in your freight cars?  I want to do that.  Because I am originally from Minnesota's Mesabi Iron Range, I want a Great Northern locomotive.  I ordered 3 D, M, & IR ore cars & hope to have them carry something to simulate iron ore.

   In Model Railroader (July, 2008)I read about a new locomotive that can pull 100 cars.  I would like a freight locomotive that can pull about 20 cars at a good speed & with several ounces of freight.  I am considering the Great Northern SkyATH-94159-2, but sellers' descriptions often don't tell me what I want to know, like how much pulling power it has.  My present locomotive does not have all-wheel drive, which I guess delivers more power.
  If I buy another locomotive, do I need a separate transformer for it?  How do I know what transformer to get?  I'm guessing that a more powerful locomotive needs a more powerful transformer than the one that runs my present locomotive & 6 cars.
   
   If one can't run two trains on the same track, can the two tracks intersect or must one go under or over the other?

[SteamGene]

A lot of questions!  
First, I think that 20 cars on a 6x20 is probably too long a train.  Depending on what era you go for, 10-15 cars might be a better length or you may have the entire track covered by one train.   Notice, btw, that the MR pulling capacity is for SRAIGHT AND LEVEL track.  Put a curve or a grade, and the capacity drops.  
There are lots of locomotives today that will pull a 10-20 car train.  Do look for all wheel pickup on diesels and locomotive and tender pickup on steam.  
AFIK, none of the roadbed and track systems have compatable roadbed locking features.  As you note, the systems are expensive.  Flex track is much less expensive, but there is a learning curve in laying it.  (There's a learning curve with "easy track," too - joining the raodbed and joining the track is not the same motion!)  Yes, it needs a roadbed, but the roadbed can come from: cork, foam insulation sheets, or homosote.  I even know one person who has used drywall.  
Since you are 50+ miles from a hobby shop, I'd recommend several things:
1.  Get a subscription to MODEL RAILROADER.  
2.  Get familiar with Standard Hobby Supply, Trainworld, and Micro-Mark.  Other mail order/net hobby suppliers are good too - these are just, to me, the ones to look at first.  
3.  Browse through many of the threads here and check out other forums such as the Atlas one or the BLI one.   Lots of good information.  
4.  You can run two locomotives at the same time.  It requires one of several actions on your part.  As you note, one is double track and two power packs.  Another is block wiring.  A third is DCC.  Yes, with two power packs, two trains can crossover from one track to another.  
I know I haven't covered all your questions, but this should get you started.  
Oh, BTW, when you start buying turnouts (switches), buy the largest ones your railroad can handle - #6 should be your minimum (I'm still mad at Atlas for bringing out their #8 AFTER most of my turnouts, and most that should be #8s have been laid.)  
High balls to you.
Gene

[Jhanecker2]

To add to what Gene just said , I would suggest getting a copy of the current Walthers Catalog . It would allow you to see what's available on the market and would also show you what literature there is to answer most of your Questions about the various aspects about model railroading . Welcome  and Good Luck on Your New Hobby.     John  II

[RAM]

My guess is that the locomotive that you have is an F unit which was use for both freight and passenger trains.  Train sets is a good way to get started, but now that you have started it is best not to get train sets.  TRain sets are at the low end of qualitiy.  All main line track should have some typw of road bed.  Yard tracks for the most part are flat.  In fact many side tracks all you see it the top of the rails and come up as they meet the mainline. Remember , keep your track desing simple.  Don't try to seee how much track you can get in a given space.  Above all have fun.  Remember we all have our own way of doing things so don't listen to us.  No No just remember that our way is the the only way.  There is a lot of good information out there.  Check with your local library.
   

[WGL]

  Thanks for replying to many of my questions, SteamGene!  I don't know how to find the MR rating of pulling capacity for a locomotive I am considering.  Some descriptions say all-wheel drive & others don't say anything about the drive.  I will check the websites you recommend.  As far as pulling 20 cars, I just want some reserve power.  I probably would stop at about 15 for freight & 10 for a passenger train.
  I read that Walthers has adapters to connect their PowerLoc with other track.  Now, I'm worried that different brands of locomotives & cars might not have compatible couplers.  I hope the Bachmann ore cars I ordered will couple to the Walthers set I have.  I have not seen any basic information about what to consider when buying locomotives, cars, track, & transformers for a compatible system that runs well.

  RAM, my local library has just two books on model trains.  One is 29 years old.  Neither answers the questions I posted here.

  Janecker2, I will get a copy of Walthers Catalog.  I searched Amazon.com for books on model trains, was able to see the table of contents for several & do not think they would address many of my questions.

[Jhanecker2]

There definitely is an adapter for the Power-Loc Track . I bought several  since  I have  three  different brands of Track  : Power-Loc , E-Z Track . and Atlas  Code 100.   I do have several Types of couplers and am eventually going to change them all over to either  Bachmann  or Kadee just to eliminate the compatibilty problem . 
     I must admit that I like the way Power-Loc goes together , But it has too few types of track and switches  to make more than a beginners track .
     

[Woody Elmore]

Model Railroader magazine publishes "How to" books. They are available via mail order or at a well stocked hobby shop.

As for couplers, find out the kind you have on your set - my guess would be one of the knuckle coupler varieties. Just make sure anything you buy has knuckle couplers. If you look at items on Ebay, ask the seller about the couplers. If they don't know, don't buy!

[SteamGene]

HO couplers for the last 40 years at least have been either horn hook or knuckle.  You will still find horn hook on some older cars, but now there are several brands of knuckle.  All horn hook mate with all horn hook and all knuckle mate with all knuckle.  Of the two, the knuckle is much better and easy to convert, for the most part.  The industry standard is still the Kadee. 
Gene

[WGL]

 Thanks, SteamGene & Woody Elmore, for relieving my concern about couplers.  I was confused when I read that some are magnetic knuckle couplers, because mine are plastic.  I tried to copy a picture of my couplers here but can't seem to do it.
  Thanks, Jhanecker2.  I found an adapter at Walthers' website (which is difficult to search) but haven't ordered any yet.  If they add to the length of the track & I'd need 2 to place EZ track between Power-Loc, then I'd need 2 on the other side of my layout to make it equal in length.
  The transformer that came with my train set says Maximum Output 7 VA.  It has 5 marks for forward & 5 for backward. I haven't yet found information about what transformer a more powerful locomotive would need.

[Woody Elmore]

The magnetic part of the knuckle coupler is the wire "gladhand" that hangs down. This is made of a ferrous metal that will be attracted to the magnet and open the coupler. The couplers can be metal or plastic.

All HO knuckle couplers should mate and unless you are into doing a lot of switching, you may never use the magnetic feature.

[Guilford Guy]

Is their any specific era you're planning to model?
Atlas makes a "Dakota Minnesota & Eastern Railroad" locomotive which is a modern era railroad.
http://www.atlasrr.com
Any Atlas locomotive should pull the number of cars you want to pull.

http://www.athearn.com
Athearn has been in the hobby for a LONG time. They are very good pullers, especially their newer locomotives, and have a proven drive, albeit some can be noisy.

Bachmann's Diesels haven't impressed me in pulling power, but their SD45's(Great Northern, and Northern Pacific were roadnames) will most likely be able to haul 20 cars.

[Yampa Bob]

There is a lot of discussion about "pulling power" of various brands of locomotives on this forum.  I have no basis for comparison as I have only Bachmann.

I have used the small can motors in various hobby applications, including electric aircraft,  for many years. Most, if not all, are made by Mabuchi, to the manufacturer's specs.

http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/en_US/technic/t_0300.html

I'm thinking all loco makers use the same motor, worm gear and reduction ratios. So how can one loco have more pulling power than another? The only thing I can think of is sloppy workmanship in the axles, bearings and other working parts, in other words the drive mechanism.

I have 4 Bachmann diesels, GP35 and GP40.  They all run about the same speed, and any of them can easily pull 40 cars with little reduction in speed. Of course my layout is flat, and all my car wheels are metal, with the journals reamed, and roll freely.

I also have 5 Bachmann GE 70 Ton, by adding  extra weight for traction , they will pull 30 cars with ease.

Since my layout is small, I rarely pull more than 10 to 15 cars, except for test purposes.

When someone says such and such loco has poor "pulling power", it's  probably just opinion /hearsay, or it could be poorly made or defective.  Whether I've just been lucky, or doing something right, I'm very satisfied with Bachmann, and have no reason to even try other brands. 

[SteamGene]

Weight on drivers is one factor.  But, yes, sloppy drive mechanisms is another.  As Sheldon and several others have pointed out, wheels,  journal boxes, trucks, center of gravity can all be a factor in how many cars can a locomotive or locomotives pull. Grades are a factor - many new to the hobby don't realize that both grades and curves - especially tight curves - can be a factor in performance.  Another factor is a comparison of what the locomotive should pull - 2-8-0s bowed to 2-8-2s because the Mike pulled more than the Connie.  Had steam lasted another 10-15 years, the Mike would have shaken the hand of the Kanawha.  So it's not prototypical for a 2-8-0 to pull 100 cars - unless one of the helpers.  
Gene

[Jim Banner]

4.  You can run two locomotives at the same time.  It requires one of several actions on your part.  As you note, one is double track and two power packs.  Another is block wiring.  A third is DCC.  Yes, with two power packs, two trains can crossover from one track to another. 
Gene

Strictly speaking, Gene is talking about running two trains at the same time.  To run two locomotives at the same time, as in double heading, (two locomotives pulling one train) all you need is two locomotives that run at similar speeds and a power pack heavy enough to supply the needed current.  Your present pack is rated 7 VA which is about 7 watts.  So if the maximum output voltage is 14 volts, then the maximum current is 7 / 14 = .5 amps, or about enough for one loaded locomotive.  Something like an MRC Tech II (around $20 used on eBay) is rated 16 VA and will handle at least 2 loaded locomotives.  Some old H0 locomotives draw more, but most made in the last 10 years are happy with .5 amps of current.  Some take even less.  MR (Model Railroader magazine) usually lists the maximum current draw at 12 volts with wheels slipping. 

My suggestion is to not spend a great deal of money on a larger dc power pack at this time.  There is a good chance that you will soon want to run two or more trains at the same time.  Then you will want to consider DCC (Digital Command Control) which is the most common and most popular form of multiple train control.

[WGL]

   Guilford Guy, I am interested in the '50s & '60s in Northern Minnesota, & am seeking a Great Northern locomotive, the kind I used to see pulling long lines of iron ore cars, besides boxcars (GN, SOOLine), & etc.  I just got 3 Bachmann DM&IR ore cars.  I am considering Athearn HO 94160 RTR GP35, GN/Sky #3038 http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product_p/ath-94160.htm although I recall the GN's as orange & green.  I don't want to pay much more than this model's $65.
  Thanks for the help on power packs.  I was looking at an MRC1370 18VA for $30.  I'll have to read about DCC.  It seems complicated.
  I was wondering about weight's effect on traction.  The F7 that came with my Walthers set has only 4-wheel drive but pulls 9 cars with freight adequately.  If I got a diesel freight locomotive, I'd use the F7 for passenger cars.