Bachmann Product Quality

[SteamGene]

Weight - I use auto wheel weights which I buy in bulk at an auto parts store - or bought - I'm still working on the one I bought.  For just a few cars, they are available in hobby shops.
Many people think it's actually cheaper to use pennies - it may be if one does not consider the price of the glue   One company uses large nuts - which work fine. 
Without a picture or a diagram I'm forced to think that you are doing something to misalign some track - it can't be forced.  Period. 
You might consider taking all the track apart and starting over - perhaps with just a simple oval to get started.
Now - what does the track rest on?
Gene

[Conrail Quality]

In regards to the private messaging feature, that is not Bachmann's fault. The forum was designed by Simple Machines LLC (whoever they are), and the blame lies with them. In any event, if you do just want to just get your trains up and running in 15 minutes with no problems, O scale is definately more suitable than HO. There is more emphasis on making the trains run well than protoypical accuracy, and the larger size  is also more forgiving of imperfections.

Timothy

[DaveS]

Hello Art,
I've been reading this thread with some interest as I have been back into this hobby for about 2 years now after a 40 year break. In general I agree with all those who have commented about Bachmann engines as I have 3  Spectrum models and they are unbeatable for great detail and operating performance at a great price at least the steam ones are as I don't have any Bachmann diesels.
As far as track goes I wanted sectional track with roadbed as my present little layout hopefully will be just an learning one. I went with Atlas Trutrack and found many problems with the turnouts, not to mention rail gaps that you just couldn't fix. I switched to Kato Unitrack and it is vastly superior to Trutrack however if you don't have it fastened to a very level surface you will get roughness at rail joints because one rail is higher than the other. I suspect that would happen with EZ track too after looking at the few sections of it  that I use to store engines.
Perhaps you could give us some idea as to where and how the derailments occur?  What radius are your curves? Are the derailments only at turn-outs or do they occur at other spots?

I've been having great fun building kits of structures, rolling stock and I think that if you get more information your enjoyment will increase.

[aky13]

Dear DaveS, et al,

The derailments occur SOLELY at turnouts.  Several of them.  I have looked closely at them both by themselves and with a train passing slowly.  I cannot figure out the WHY and HOW of the derailments.  I have noted, however, that it is virtually ALWAYS the first car attached to the engine that derails.

I am on the verge of selling EVERYTHING HO and reverting to the 027 of my childhood.

Before I go any further, I have one additional "quality" question since you all seem to be such fans of Bachmann.  Do ANY of you think it fair for the customer to pay return shipping for an item than arrives DOA?  I had to pay to return the Spectrum Erie SD45.  I did not appreciate this expense, or the 6 weeks to forever to get it back either fixed or replaced.

My layout consists of an old ping-pong table (5 X 10) appended as an "L" to an air hockey table (water damaged from a pipe leak) covered with a 4 X 8 sheet of plywood.  Since I wanted an area in which one train crossed OVER another, I have a trestle set with a Bachmann blinking bridge (that stopped blinking after being on perhaps 2 dozen times).  This is the only part of the layout with questionable to bad geometry, since it is a fairly sharp S curve.  However, I have NO derailment problems with this section of the layout.

When I was a kid and could not afford switch tracks (turnouts), I always wanted them.  My layout has numerous sidings and track changes with turnouts.  The Bachmann EZ track turnouts are where the derailments occur.

I want to thank each and every one of you who took the time to read my whining and provide wisdom and guidance.  If anyone wants to buy a whole bunch of EZ track, send me an email at [email protected]!

Arthur

[Pacific Northern]

When first I started my present layout I laid out the EZ track as per the layout that I had designed. This included a number of risers over portions of the layout. 

As I was still in the process of modifying the overall track plan at the time I had only tacked down the tracks and turnouts in a few spots.

I was surprised at how much movement occurred with the EZ track.  I would run a train with no problems and then next time I ran it I was experiencing derails. The tracks had moved slightly.

That is when I found out that even EZ track needed to be securely fastened, not just tacked down - especially around the turnouts. The tracks would re-align themselves and in spots the track was even raised in relation to the adjoining track.

Once the tracks and turnouts were securely fastened there was no more movement and no more derailing problems.

[john tricarico]

hi ary 13

first  where did you purchase the trains from
if it was a hobby store you should ask them
questions about trains

i worked for a large train store here in
brooklyn for many years and when a customer brought a lot of stuff
i offered my assistance to help them out

when you invest or just buy in any hobby
allways get an understanding about what your
getting into

in this case the H.O. train market is really big
ive been at this for over 40 years
and there is allways something to learn

dont be affraid to ask questions to the
guys in the forum  there a great bunch
and a fellow modelers we help each other out


good luck   john t   brooklyn ny

[RAM]

13, Check the coupler on the locomotive.  ;It should move freely.  Check the coupler pin to make sure it is not too low and hiting the rail on the turnout. 

[aky13]

Again, thanks to all.

Thank you for your words of encouragement.  I bought 98% of my HO stuff online, mostly from two vendors, who - I have since learned - are cousins.  One is called The Favorite Spot and the other is Internet Railroad.

John T, - BTW, I am from East Flatbush!

The problem occurs solely at three different turnouts.  TWO are on  straightaways, one at a curve.  I have Weighted cars.  I have swapped for new steel wheels.  Matters not if the cars are new or old, cheap or expensive.

The really troubling thing, to me, is that I have looked very closely at all three switches.  I have looked at the heights of the rails.  I have tightened joiners.  NOTHING seems to help.

Someone, suggested that the engine's coupler does not move freely.  That bears some attention.  How do I change that?  But I have tried three different engines and it has not made a difference.  Can all three need attention?

Arthur

[morrisf]

It is wise ol' Yogi Berra that says, "You can observe a lot by just looking."

Run your train SLOWLY to the exact spot that the wheels leave the rails.

Then, get close and look at the thing. Use a magnifier if you need it.

Get a pencil and start poking around until you find a "tight spot" that's dragging the car off the rails. It could be at the coupler, a wheel out of gauge, rails out of gauge, wheels hitting something on the car underframe, etc.

You've got to be a good detective and use a process of elimination to find the trouble.

Take your time and probe until you find the answer. It'll probably take less time than writing all these messages.

[rogertra]

Buy an NMRA gauge.

http://www.trainbuddy.com/Reference/nmra_gage.htm

[rocknblues]

Proper coupling is a major factor in stopping derailments at turnouts. Also you could remove the shell of the first car thats derailing, this way you can see much better whats going on under the car. Gently roll it back and forth through the turnout and observe whats happening.
I am learning model railroading as well, not quite as bad experience for me as what you are going through, but it takes patience, and perserverence.

[grumpy]

My layout is completely EZ track . In it is 10 switches or turnouts . The secret to keeping them from causing derailments is to fasten them down securely to your base. Some of them seem to have a slight twist in them which misaligns the frog and lifts a wheel.
Don

[Shay Fan]

Aky13,
The engine's coupler should move freely when nudged from side to side.  If it doesn't, try loosening the screw which holds the coupler. 
I'm sorry to hear HO scale isn't working for you.