EZ track 9" power terminal with insulated gap

[johndmuller]

I just purchased an EZ track 9" power terminal with insulated gap (#44597).

It uses what look to be the same connectors that the standard terminal tracks use - the two spade-like connectors on about 3/8" centers (imagine suitable editorial comment here).

Does anyone know if there is a source of matching connectors for making my own connections? 

Can the connector lugs be directly soldered to, or are they an inappropriate material?  I know that I could buy BMan's extension wires and cut them in half, but I might prefer to use different (thicker maybe) wires.  Crimp-on connectors might also work, but I wonder about the quality of the connections.

Any thoughts?

[chucknlead]

There shouldn't be a problem soldering that material. You may need to scrape it down to the copper. My only concern would be melting the plastic. Unless you have some material to absorb the heat, you may want to try female spade terminals first. The connector that bachman uses is more than likely proprietary. I've been in electronics and have never seen that connector.

You mention larger gauge wire. I have to assume that you are pulling some serious amperage. If your current wiring or connection is getting warm, then you are without a doubt undersized.

[Ralph-On30]

johndmuller

Perhaps you can take your piece of track to a Radio Shack, or another store that sells electronic gear and see if they have the connectors you want.

[JWBDolphins]

johndmuller

I have a curiosity question about the EZ track with the insulated gap.  I've gone to my local hobby shops to try to see one but haven't been able to locate one in stock, and I can't tell from the picture on Bachmann's site.  The question is - are the insulated gaps Parallel to each other, or is one offset about 1/16" or so?  In other words, would a pair of wheels rolling over the gap contact Both gaps at the same time or not?

Thanks!

[johndmuller]

There is a single cut through each rail in virtually the same point on each rail - it looks like they might be ever so slightly offset from one another (in other words, it may not be perfect), but if they are is is so close as to make no matter.  I rolled a car across the gap by hand and it felt as if the wheels on both sides were contacting the gap at the same time.

The gap is nearly in the center (offset a little to go between ties as there are an odd number of ties).

On the reverse, there is are 2 copper (?) jumper strips that whose connections can be opened or closed to either connect or disconnect the two halves of track from each other.  Either or both ends of the track can be powered by two of the aforementioned oddball connectors.

They can be bought on-line at a number of places including MB Klein and NHS Hobbies.

[JWBDolphins]

Thanks for the info!, that's exactly what I was wanting to know!

As far as wire connectors for the track, I'd like to learn what would work too.  Looking into the plug on the wire harness, it looks to be some type of female spade-type connector - I think something like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104091&cp=2032058&f=Taxonomy%2FRSK%2F2032058&categoryId=2032058&kwCatId=2032058&kw=spade+connectors&parentPage=search would work, assuming the right size were found.  I was just at Radio Shack today too, actually - I should have brought a piece of track with me!

[Yarm35]

I bought a pack of them (4) the last time I ordered track just to see what they looked like.... for possible use for blocks.

I fitted the B'Man connector to one... it fit ok.... but expensive way to go.... spade connectors should work just fine... if you are making permanent connections a drop of solder should do the trick... I would use heat sink.

Your response to my radius question indicated you are considering joining two main lines.... I am thinking about doing similar effort.... using  blocks of course (don't want DCC) and want automatic ops.

You mentioned different guage wire... you concerned with amps or voltage drop?

yarm35