Draft gear boxes and lids

[sloan]

Ok I've been totally convinced to usr kadee #5 couplers .Now I'm wanting to retrofit an old Bachmann set (20yrs  or more ) I think I'm gonna need new Draft gear boxes and lids Can someone tell me which ones are the easiest to install  or just tell me "What the deal is " cause I ain't really got a clue   
                                                                                                     Sloan

[SteamGene]

Kadee couplers in the four pack come with draft gear boxes.  Get some of those and some 2-56 self taping screws. 
I assume that the cars in question have talgo trucks, so cut the coupler boxes off the trucks and glue the draft gear box to the floor of the car.  You may need to shim it a bit.  Drill a starter hole for the screw, mount the coupler in the box, and screw in the lid. 
OTOH, depending on the brand of 20 year old cars, you might want to just weather them very heavily and put them on a siding like they are being cut up. 
Gene

[sloan]

Thanks Dude

[pdlethbridge]

You might want to get a Kadee coupler gauge and their washers to set coupler height. I find the Kadee #205 tool, shown below, is easy to use and very accurate

[r.cprmier]

Sloan;
Go on Kadee's website, and download all of that information.  If you never used kadee couplers before, and are a stickler for scale size, you might want to take a look at the #58 coupler.  They come on packs of ten pair, like the #5s now, and to me they are a better buy, as they are scale.  They will also mate with #5s, and I assume, the other 'lesser" couplers.  The website will also give you a wealth of information concerning refitting and revamping, so it is time well spent.  

The Old Reprobate

[SteamGene]

Rich,
Remember the dude wants boxes and lids - which the bulk pack doesn't have.  I have not tried the #58, but I'm sure not going to convert all my locomotives and rolling stock from #5's!
Gene

[sloan]

Do you have the Kadee item # for the 4-pack with boxes and lids ?   I'm sorta a new dealer and hate ordering the wrong stuff   thanks Sloan

[Yampa Bob]

Sloan

Please refer to my thread on upgrading Talgo trucks.  Kadee #148 is the easiest coupler to use, comes with snap together draft boxes.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,4917.0.html

While you're ordering, get the Kadee HO coupler height gauge as Paul suggested, also a #246 tap and drill set. Learn to tap for 2-56 precision machine screws.  They provide a more precise adjustment and a better value.

The 1/4" length #28573 works for most upgrades, get them from a local Fastenal store, or visit their site.  Only $3.00 for 100.  The screws (bolts) come in 1/16" length increments from 1/8" to 1/2"+. 

Prices on the screws vary with vendor, for example the 5/16" is only 52 cents for 100.  (.0052 each),  other lengths from 2 - 6 cents each.  So why pay $2.00 for only 8 self tappers, when for about $15 you can have 700 assorted for all your modeling needs?

http://www.fastenal.com

Bob

[Santa Fe buff]

The screw in ones are better then the pop in ones. In the pop in ones, they come out after being used to much as to the screws keep it secure.

[r.cprmier]

First rule here:  Always screw draft gear assembly to the body!  Do you want to go fishing in that three-foot curved tunnel with NO access for the second half?  Of course, you could always back a second loco in to "catch them" (hopefully) and put green markers on the first; but if you have pulled off a complete draft gear assembly and it is still hanging on the last car, then this whole treatise would then become moot point, now wouldn't it? 

In terms of the 58s:  They are compatible with the #5s, et al-as I mentioned in my last post here. 

The Kadee web site has a complete listing of couplers, and draft gear, as well as their respective applications.  The website is extremely informative as well as downloadable.

I have been using 58s on all of my new kits and locomotives as I complete them.  As a lot of my rolling stock is pre-2000, I will not convert them; nor probably will I run them much if at all.  The Athearn, MDC, and so on, would be much too much bother, as most of my stock is of the craftsman end, such as F&C, Sunshine, Tichy kit, Proto 2000 (kit), Red Caboose, Intermountain (kit), and as such, are more desireable for me to see tacked onto one of my loco's hinies.  These are the cars I am particularly hard-nosed about standards.  Otherwise, there is always kit-bashing...

The Old Reprobate

[Santa Fe buff]

I agree with Bob,
I had a coupler screwed into the wheel, I poped off occasionally and the one that was pop on to the body just wasn't the answer either, to have it screwed to the body is the perfect way to not go fishing.

[Craig]

It pays to locate the steel weight in your rolling stock prior to drilling. It may need to be removed/drilled/trimmed/replaced with lead stick-ons.

In some cases you might want to reinforce the plastic car bottom with styrene so your screw has some bite. Many of those old cars have very thin understructures.

[Yampa Bob]

My thread has details about drilling the weight and reinforcing the floor for screws.