PROTO 2000 S1 DCC conversion

DrDialtone · February 19, 2007, 07:43:31 PM

According to the instructions supplied with the loco it is a simple plug and play swap. Seems I read some where this is not the case. Wish I could remember. According to the author there is a potential of destroying the decoder if installed as per instructions. If the trucks come in contact with the chassis it will cause a short. Any body have an experiance with this issue.

Jim Banner · February 19, 2007, 08:02:07 PM

Yes, on the pre-DCC ready S1. One of the motor brushes is connected to the motor frame via the brush retainer cap. The motor frame in turn is connected to the locomotive frame. With one of the decoder output wires indirectly connected to the locomotive frame, you violate the rule that says "the track inputs and motor outputs of a decoder MUST be isolated from one another at all times" if and when one of the wheels touches the locomotive frame.

The solution I used was to make a styrene washer to put under the brush retainer, just like the other brush retainer already has. Then I wired the decoder lead to the cap and reinstalled the motor. The next step, making sure the caps are isolated from the locomotive frame when the motor is back in, is very important. Use an ohmmeter or a GOW bulb and a 9 volt battery to make sure there is no conductivity from either brush retainer to the locomotive frame.

Nigel · February 19, 2007, 08:42:19 PM

See: http://www.tonystrains.com/tonystips/2001/120601.htm

Jim Banner · February 19, 2007, 11:33:47 PM

Nigel, do you know if LifeLike (Walthers) will still be offering a remedy to all users? The link to it on the page you referenced is dead. I see their recommended method is similar to my own, except I attach a wire to the brush holder rather than trying to attach it to the brush itself.

DrDialtone · February 20, 2007, 07:55:35 AM

Thank you all for your replies

Thanks for the link .

GS_Train · February 25, 2007, 03:15:55 PM

Does the Proto 2000 S3 have the same DCC conversion requirements as the S1? The instructions just say replace the lights, then remove the large pcb and replace with the decoder.
Does it need to have any wiring changes as well?

Regards
Gary

FFJOHNL312 · February 25, 2007, 08:02:17 PM

Mechanically, the S3 is the same as the S1 so the same precautions apply.
John Loesch

GS_Train · February 25, 2007, 09:58:40 PM

Thanks John - I know the prototypes are quite similar. I'm not sure if the one I have is the pre-DCC or not.

Regards
Gary

DrDialtone · February 27, 2007, 03:14:30 PM

Quote from: Jim Banner on February 19, 2007, 11:33:47 PM
Nigel, do you know if LifeLike (Walthers) will still be offering a remedy to all users? The link to it on the page you referenced is dead. I see their recommended method is similar to my own, except I attach a wire to the brush holder rather than trying to attach it to the brush itself.

When I recieved a response from Larry at Life Like there was no mention made of a remedy. Come to find out both my Proto 2000 GP 7's are wired in the same fashion. Larry also stated that there should not be a potential for a decoder fail in the case of a short. Looks like the problem was never rectified.

I for one disagree with Larry. The Proto 2000 S1's and GP7's are DCC ready loco's

News:

PROTO 2000 S1 DCC conversion