A few questions about DCC and a Spectrum loco

[styntwin409]

Ok. I have a few questions about things dealing with a Digitrax DCC Zephyr System that I'm going to be getting in the near future, then one with a Spectrum GP-30 that I bought.

DCC:

1) Does the Zephyr controller have sound? I think I saw a bell button on one.
2) When you turn the throttle on one engine, then switch to another engine, if you leave the throttle at the same spot, will the new loco go that speed instantly?
3) Will Kadee uncoupling magnets work with the Zephyr?

GP-30

1) What kind of Kadee couplers should I put on it to make it look like the coupler isn't a billion feet long? I put a #156 and it looked like it was sticking out too far.

Thanks in advance! 

~Justin

[SteamGene]

The bell icon, like the whistle icon, is to tell you which button to push WHEN you have sound installed.  You need a sound decoder for the system to work. 
Why would you want a locomotive to go from 0 to 30 in less than a second?  IWhich throttle are you using.  If you have one with two controls, the one you surrender continues at its speed and you then aquire the other at zero. 
I don't use DCC uncouplers, though you can find comments about them here.  However, I believe the answer is "yes."
My advice on the DC-30 is to trade it in on a C&O K4.  Much nicer loco and it already has the proper size couplers installed.
Gene

[Jim Banner]

(1) The Zephyr controller does not have sound built into it but it can control DCC sound decoders that are installed in locomotives.

(2) Not instantly.  You normally have to either touch the throttle or wait for the next speed command to be sent from the Zephyr.  Best bet is to to release the first locomotive (<loco> <exit>) then turn the throttle to zero then acquire the second locomotive (<loco> number <loco>.)  That way, the second locomotive will not take off like a scalded cat.  You also have the option of connecting one or two conventional dc power packs to the Zephyr to give you two or three throttles total if you want to run multiple trains.  If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can even make your own hand held throttle(s) using just a battery, a pot, a switch and a box to mount them in. 

(3) The permanent magnets used to uncouple Kadees will work with any dc or DCC system.  The Kadee electromagnetic uncouplers will NOT work directly with the Zephyr as it has no accessory power outputs to power them.  You would need a second power source, either ac or dc, around 12 to 16 volts to operate Kadee electromagnetics.  This could be a conventional power pack or a wall wart type supply.  I do not know of any DCC command station that has auxiliary power outputs for accessories.

Note that Kadee does not make DCC uncouplers but it should be possible to operate their electromagnetic uncouplers via a stationary decoder.  The Zephyr can certainly operate stationary decoders.

I am not familiar with your GP-30 locomotive - it is too modern for my layout.  But I can make a few general comments.  First, I assume you have been to the Kadee website and checked out what lengths they make.  If there are none short enough, then you might want to consider moving the mounting point farther back or forward, depending on whether it is a front or rear coupler.

With your concern about couplers, I suspect you do a lot of switching.  The Zephyr is great for this as you can either use the throttle or you can leave the throttle set and just use the brake/direction control.  the Zephyr is also able to program and operate all the fancy controls built into many new decoders - speed tables, back EMF control, and switch speed options.  Digitrax's newest, the DZ125, has all the above and a lot more for a street price around $20.  It is also compatible with Digitrax's new add-on sound system, the SoundBug.   

[styntwin409]

(1) The Zephyr controller does not have sound built into it but it can control DCC sound decoders that are installed in locomotives.

(2) Not instantly.  You normally have to either touch the throttle or wait for the next speed command to be sent from the Zephyr.  Best bet is to to release the first locomotive (<loco> <exit>) then turn the throttle to zero then acquire the second locomotive (<loco> number <loco>.)  That way, the second locomotive will not take off like a scalded cat.  You also have the option of connecting one or two conventional dc power packs to the Zephyr to give you two or three throttles total if you want to run multiple trains.  If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can even make your own hand held throttle(s) using just a battery, a pot, a switch and a box to mount them in. 

(3) The permanent magnets used to uncouple Kadees will work with any dc or DCC system.  The Kadee electromagnetic uncouplers will NOT work directly with the Zephyr as it has no accessory power outputs to power them.  You would need a second power source, either ac or dc, around 12 to 16 volts to operate Kadee electromagnetics.  This could be a conventional power pack or a wall wart type supply.  I do not know of any DCC command station that has auxiliary power outputs for accessories.

Note that Kadee does not make DCC uncouplers but it should be possible to operate their electromagnetic uncouplers via a stationary decoder.  The Zephyr can certainly operate stationary decoders.

I am not familiar with your GP-30 locomotive - it is too modern for my layout.  But I can make a few general comments.  First, I assume you have been to the Kadee website and checked out what lengths they make.  If there are none short enough, then you might want to consider moving the mounting point farther back or forward, depending on whether it is a front or rear coupler.

With your concern about couplers, I suspect you do a lot of switching.  The Zephyr is great for this as you can either use the throttle or you can leave the throttle set and just use the brake/direction control.  the Zephyr is also able to program and operate all the fancy controls built into many new decoders - speed tables, back EMF control, and switch speed options.  Digitrax's newest, the DZ125, has all the above and a lot more for a street price around $20.  It is also compatible with Digitrax's new add-on sound system, the SoundBug.  

First, thank you for all the information. Second, I am only 13, so I'm most likely not handy with a soldering gun... My dad doesn't even let me use a drill! Third, I haven't built the layout I'm going to use the GP-30 and the Zephry control on yet, but I will begin soon. I am a fan of switching, though, so I'm definately going to want uncoupling magnets.

The bell icon, like the whistle icon, is to tell you which button to push WHEN you have sound installed.  You need a sound decoder for the system to work. 
Why would you want a locomotive to go from 0 to 30 in less than a second?  IWhich throttle are you using.  If you have one with two controls, the one you surrender continues at its speed and you then aquire the other at zero. 
I don't use DCC uncouplers, though you can find comments about them here.  However, I believe the answer is "yes."
My advice on the DC-30 is to trade it in on a C&O K4.  Much nicer loco and it already has the proper size couplers installed.
Gene

Thank you also for your information. Also, it's GP-30, and, ironically enough, I am modeling the Chessie System, and that includes the B&O and the C&O, but I don't want to trade my GP-30 in. I've already started to paint it, and even though I love steam engines, I want to try a diesel-only layout.

~Justin

[Jim Banner]

Justin, your good spelling, proper use of the English language and logical questions led me to believe you were older.  But that does not mean you deserve any less of an answer because you are 13.

Drills can be dangerous.  Last year I accidentally drilled the ear ring out of my left ear with one.  And I've been using electric drills for over 50 years.  Soldering irons, on the other hand, can burn you but rarely do any permanent damage.  Perhaps you can convince your father to teach you how to use one, one of these days.   

[Yampa Bob]

One thing I have learned on this forum is things aren't alway what they seem. I find myself more often checking the profile to see if an age is shown. 

Justin, if you are truly 13, then I compliment you on your state of maturity and forward thinking. 

Yampa Bob

[Guilford Guy]

But don't forget us wild 'bad splelng' kids who have big inappropriate parties with illegal beverages after the Springfield show!

[SteamGene]

Justin,
My typing error on the GP-30 - and a slip of my proofreading eye to boot.    As a retired English teacher, let me compliment you on your command - well done. 
I chose the C&O K4 because I saw the Chessie System colors and the mention of Chessie, so I assumed that to be your main interest.  The other unit of the Chessie System was the Western Maryland. 
I agree that both soldering irons and drills can be dangerous, but so is getting out of bed.  Ask your dad to help you if he can. 
With soldering, buy or build a stand for the iron first.  Never work with one without a stand to put it on.  Watch the tip. 
Jim - how did you drill out an earring? 
GG - Ya be doin' betta, boy.  Now am I going to have to come up to the Springfield show in 09 and chaperone you?   Do you know if there are still flights into Westover? 
Gene

[Stephen D. Richards]

Justin, well done!  I would the the cool soldering iron.  Uses AA batteries and does a very nice job.  Also no burning and much, much safer to use.  You can find them at Radio Shack.  Be prepared to use a lot of batteries though.  Uses an arc much like a welder but none of the dangers.  I use one.

Jim,  I too am curious about your left ear and it's loss of an ear ring by a runaway drill!  'Twill make an interesting story!  lol   Stephen

[Yampa Bob]

Jim
Ear piercing is normally done with a needle. Or were you trying to clean out the ear wax?  You will never live this down. 

[styntwin409]

To everyone: thanks for commenting on how well I spell!  Also, thank you for the replies to my question, and to SteamGene--the spelling error is forgiven. Anyway, you are a steam specialist, and I was talking about a diesel...
Anyway, thanks again for the comments, and I really am 13. =)

Edit: Heh, I remember at the Springfield show this year all the 'illegal drink' stands, my friend David pointed them out to me. How convenient! Hehehe...
Ok, back on topic: Will installing a decoder cause a locomotive not to work on DC? Will it make it stall or run bad? I might install some decoders before I get the system so I can just go right in and run it, but I don't want to do it if it won't run on DC also.

~Justin

[SteamGene]

Justin, the ability of a decoder to sense DC and allow the locomotive to operate that way depends on the decoder.  Some do.  Some don't.
Gene

[Jim Banner]

Drilling out your ear ring is easy when you have long hair.  I usually wear it in a braid under my shirt or jacket when I am working, but sometimes it falls out.  This can be bad when when you are bending over, drilling holes in the ends of railroad ties (12" to the foot ones) and the drill bit picks up the end of your braid.  Fortunately, the bit was out of the hole I had just drilled.  Unfortunately, it was a good quality, all ball bearing drill that coasts a long time.  Long enough to winch itself up my braid by winding the latter around the bit.  And long enough to rip out my ear ring and almost tear off my ear lobe.

Even worse than having to go to the local Medi-Clinic to get my ear sewn up was having to return to the same clinic exactly one week later and have a brad removed from my wrist when my pneumatic nailer misfired.  The surgeon went so far as to suggest I take up a different hobby.

Yes, tools can be dangerous.  When I retired from the instrument development shop where I worked, I was the only one of the four of us who still had ten fingers that all worked.

Now I suppose I will have to live down the ear ring incident here too.

[Yampa Bob]

Jim
Well, no comment lol

This is sorta on topic.  The EZ Command doesn't have a "release loco" function, you just switch with one button push.

Say you have 2 running on different tracks at full throttle.  Bring one to complete stop, then with the throttle closed, push the button for the other one.  Jim, you can explain what I call "existing state throttle matching" better than me.   After a while it just comes natural.

Bob

[Chessie Sys. 3022]

Ok guys, it's me Justin again with a few more questions. (This is my new account. Don't believe me? Check Styntwin409's signature.)

• How should I attach cork roadbed to a sheet of foam?
• How should I attach the track (code 83, if it helps) the the roadbed?
• When splitting the roadbed, how should i do it? I don't want to rip it because it might destroy it.
• How should I clean up the messy roadbed edges?
  

Thanks in advance for any replies!

~Justin