A few questions about DCC and a Spectrum loco

[SteamGene]

I use construction glue in a caulking gun to glue roadbed to subroadbed. 
For code 83, turn the track over and drill out the pre-drilled holes, then use track nails to hold the track to the cork.
Pull the two pieces gently apart, and then reverse them so the flat edges mate and the slopes are to the outside.
Once you've put ballast over the roadbed any irregularities should be covered. 
Gene

[Jim Banner]

White glue (I prefer Weldbond brand) will stick cork roadbed to styrofoam but you will either have to pin it in place (straight dress makers pins) or weight it down with bricks, books etc. until the glue dries.  This usually takes overnight.    Best bet is to draw the center line of your track on the foam, then split the cork and glue it down so that one straight (not tapered) edge is right on the center line.  Next day, you can glue down the other half of the roadbed, butted up against the first piece.  This way you never loose your center line.  Use a piece of cardboard to spread glue evenly over the bottoms of the pieces of cork, one at a time, and put them in place before the glue starts to dry.

Attach your track to the top of the cork with the same glue.  Again use a bit of cardboard to spread glue on a section of cork, then pin down the track until the glue dries.  As with the cork, drying usually takes overnight.  If you are using sectional track, you may get away with holding it in place with track nails.  But if you use flex track, neither the cork nor the foam under it will hold the nails well enough to keep the track in place indefinitely.

Cork roadbed usually splits quite cleanly if you fold it over in the middle where it is already cut most of the way through. 

Don't worry about the messy edges.  Once your track is down and working perfectly, you will probably want to ballast it, either with commercial ballast or with fine sand.  This will cover any roughness, and even fill any gaps in the center.  Glue down your ballast by first wetting it with a fine mist of water with a few drops of detergent added.  Then drench it with a 50:50 mix of white glue and water.  You might want to leave your turnouts unballasted.  If you prefer not to ballast, you can trim any irregularities off with a sharp knife.

White, non-water proof glue has the advantage that you can resoak the ballast with water and gently lift the track with a putty knife.  With water proof glue, there is no way of recovering your track and reusing it.

[Chessie Sys. 3022]

I am going to be ballasting, so hopefully that will help the edge. Also, would using Elmer's white glue work? I have enough of that to use due to many school projects. 

~Justin

[Walt]

Well I couldn't find a place to post my question and ended up here so hope this is OK.  I have installed an MRC #001629 sound decoder in my Bachmann Spectrium class J.  It works but there are some problems.  I'm using Bachmann's EZ Command system and The volume on this engine is higher than I would like.  the chuff could be bgetter syncronized with the engine speed and some of the sounds aren't available.  Occasionally It whistles or gives one ot the other sounds on it's own.  Any ideas?
Walt

[SteamGene]

You cannot program with the EZ-Command system.  However, if you have a friend with a programming track, you should be able to program on it. 
How do you like the sound?
Gene

[sparkyjay31]

Ok guys, it's me Justin again with a few more questions. (This is my new account. Don't believe me? Check Styntwin409's signature.)

• How should I attach cork roadbed to a sheet of foam?
• How should I attach the track (code 83, if it helps) the the roadbed?
• When splitting the roadbed, how should i do it? I don't want to rip it because it might destroy it.
• How should I clean up the messy roadbed edges?
  

Thanks in advance for any replies!

~Justin

Justin, I've had luck using the following methods:
1.  I just completed all my cork and track.  I fastened the cork to my 1" foam with white glue.  Works like a charm.  Tack in place for a few days and presto.
2.  I used track nails to keep the track in alignment.  A little white caulk that dries clear did the job.
3.  My HO cork was pre split.  Mostly.  Just a quick pull and it seperated no problem.
4.  I'm not sure what you mean by the messy roadbed edges.  Are you looking at the edge of cork?  If so when you ballast the track that will all be covered up.

Hope this helps.

[Chessie Sys. 3022]

Ok, things are getting clearer now. 

To put the track nails in, all I'd need to do is push them in with pliers, right? It would seem like the cork and foam would make it easy to do this. Also, how far should I push them in so they don't warp the track? I had this problem on my layout on plywood.

~Justin

[SteamGene]

Push them so the head rests on the tie - don't let the tie bow in the middle.
Gene

[Walt]

to SteamGene,
I love the sound of the MRC decoder.  I was planning to buy an engine with sound that I could use with my DC setup but after being out bid on three on e-bay I bid on the decoder and an EZ comand unit.  The money I saved was more than enough to buy a set of Bachmann B&O Sharks (A&B units) with DCC.  So I'm very happy.  do you know if there is room for sonud in the sharks?
Walt

[Chessie Sys. 3022]

I seem to be getting lots of good replies, so I might as well keep posting questions here! Thanks so far, guys! Generally, how much would a good decoder for a Spectrum GP-30 be, and where would I put it?

~Justin

[SteamGene]

Walt,
The only sound I know of that comes from sharks is: "Help! He--"
Gene

[Chessie Sys. 3022]

I just got some 70% isopropyl alcohol to make a 50:50 mixture with water for spraying the ballast with. I got a few questions about that:

1) Should I wait until I get the ballast and the roadbed and track is down before making the 50:50 mixture? Will the mixture separate?

2) Will the spray kill the foam base?

3) Should I mask the tracks when spraying, or should I wipe the rails down when I'm done?

Thanks in advance!

~Justin

[Guilford Guy]

dribble the alcohol on with an eye dropper or plastic spoon.
Then make a 50:50 mix of white glue and water, and spray that on, or use a plastic spoon to dribble it on. Don't spray straight down, but spray horizontal to the layout if you decide to spray at all. I find I have better control with a plastic spoon.

[Chessie Sys. 3022]

Well, GG, I was going to use the ballasting method from the January 2007 Model Railroader issue, which says to spray on the 50:50 mixture of alcohol and water onto the ballast spread between the rails, then let it sit. Then, it says to come back with an eye dropper and put Woodland Scenics cement on it until you can see it between the ballast. The question that I really want answered is if I can leave the 50:50 mixture in the bottle for a long time and if it won't seperate.

~Justin

[Jim Banner]

The water and alcohol solution will not separate, even after a long time, in a sealed bottle.