Talgo Upgrade

[Yampa Bob]

Stephen
Picture on the way. Take care
Bob

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

I may edit this post later for brevity, clarity, or errors.

Have fun.

Yampa Bob

Thank you, Bob! Your posts are better than a clinic at a Greenberg's show! 

Jeff

[Yampa Bob]

Thanks Jeff
Since retirement writing is becoming a passion, but have lots to learn as English was not my favorite subject.  I probably overflow on details, but I try to paint a picture in the reader's mind. 

I also try to not give the impression that my way is the only way, but rather to stimulate some imagination and creativity in the reader.   

Bob

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

Thanks Jeff
Since retirement writing is becoming a passion, but have lots to learn as English was not my favorite subject.  I probably overflow on details, but I try to paint a picture in the reader's mind. 

I also try to not give the impression that my way is the only way, but rather to stimulate some imagination and creativity in the reader.   

Bob

I don't think so. I think if you're trying to write a "how-to," more detail is better. Don't be like the folks in Tech Services who always seem to leave out one crucial point because they know it and they assume everyone else does, too. 

[Yampa Bob]

I recently read an article in Railroad Model Craftsman about modifying bolsters on box cars.  The author also used 1/8" styrene tubing, but in a manner which provided a raised boss that the truck mount hole slipped over.  If anyone saw this article the described tapping of the tubing center all the way through may create some confusion.  It contrasts to my method, but it is a different application.  Here are the two common methods of attaching trucks to the bolster.

Some companies, notably Bachmann and Athearn, have a small tubular extension sticking up from the bolster.  It is more properly termed a "boss" or "stub".  In this application the thickness of the truck plate is slightly thinner than the height of the boss.  The truck plate hole fits OVER the boss, and a flat head bolt is screwed down tight against the boss.  The truck sway or tilt is a bit more than I prefer, but it does work well in that the bolt is always tight and won't fall out or change adjustment. Bachmann uses a very large boss, which is why it's tricky changing to other brands of trucks.  I'll cover that in a later post.  The Athearn boss is small, so any truck will fit, usually by filing the boss off down to the bolster flat as recommended by Kadee.

Other companies use a flat bolster, and the bolt is screwed down almost tight against the truck plate.  This requires that the bolt turns fairly hard to maintain adjustment. If the hole in the bolster does not grip the bolt tightly, the bolt will fall out somewhere around the track, I've had it happen.

I use the latter method, because I want adjustability of both swivel and sway, but I also want the bolt threads to grip the tube walls very tightly.  Here's the mechanics of tapping the hole.

The proper tap drill for 2-56 is #50 which is .0700 inch. That's fine for metal but a bit too large for soft styrene. If I use 3/16" solid rod for the bolster center, then I drill the hole with a 1/16" bit which is .0625.  I have to progressively run the tap in and out in short increments as it cuts a full 100% thread.  The bolt will also be a very tight fit.

The 1/8" tubing has an inside diameter of .076, larger than a #50 drill.  In order to keep the bolt reasonably tight, I only tap enough to let the bolt grab, and let the bolt do the tapping. If you can start the bolt straight it's best to not pre-tap at all. 

Technically, the 2-56 is not a bolt, it is a machine screw in the national coarse classification, but I use the terms interchangeably.  We screw bolts and screw screws but we don't bolt screws, we have a strange language.   

I'll explain later how to tighten up holes that get sloppy and won't maintain adjustment or the machine screws keep falling out.

Some companies use plastic friction pins, which will eventually fall out.  Throw them or stow them and replace with machine screws.

More later.  Questions always welcome.   

Bob

[grumpy]

My method is generally the same but I don't tap the hole beforehand I use a sheet metal screw, The sheet metal screw provides a thicker land which is stronger and eliminates the step of having to tap the hole and possibly twice the opportunities to screw up.
Don

[grumpy]

Bob
In about 10 days you will have something to practice on.
Don

[Yampa Bob]

Thanks Don, I got your letter.

I have an opinion about sheet metal screws but I better not go there. LOL  In fact I had a paragraph about it but deleted it as I try very hard to keep opinions out of my threads.     

Bob

[grumpy]

Bob                                                                                                                        I am open to your opinion. Don

[r.cprmier]

Roger;
You are truely a man after my own heart!  I sent Bob some pics of my coaling tower presently under construction, so he knows about MY workbench...  If cleanliness is next to Godliness, I shall forever burn in the deepest hottest pit of hell...

Rich  (AKA Oscar Madison)

[Yampa Bob]

Well you can call me "Felix".  Naw, I'm not that fanatical, just can't stand clutter. 

My wife is the same way. We don't mind a little dust on things, that's expected living on a ranch.  We're not antiseptic freaks either, those people are weird.

Now tools are something else. She has her workshop, I have mine. That means two complete sets of tools.  When we built the layout table, I just cut the pieces, she put it all together.  I don't ever hear "honey fix this, or honey fix that".

Yup, I'm very lucky.

Bob

[Yampa Bob]

I usually associate wood screws with wood, and sheet metal screws to metal.  The self tappers are ok, I just like the more precise adjustment with the machine screws.

Also, the machine screws come in a broader range of lengths starting from 1/8", and are a lot cheaper, as low as  52 cents for 100. 

Bob

[Yampa Bob]

When I have a bunch of upgrades to do, I set up an "assembly line".  Take the trucks off all the cars, then work on all the bolsters and getting the 3/16" difference between the bolster flat and the body floor.  That's the most time consuming part, mounting all the trucks/wheels and couplers is then quick and easy.

If there are a bunch of weight plates to drill, mark and drill them all as one operation. My biggest "run" so far was 20 upgrades in 5 relaxed evenings.

I have a stack of plastic job trays so I can keep all the cars/parts separated.  If you look at the picture of my workbench, you can see 6 of the red trays being used for small tools.

I made a template from thin plywood, with a 3/16" wide notch cut on one side, makes a great gauge to check the bolster/floor difference. 

Bob

[Daylight4449]

Yampa Bob wrote: -

"They say a clean work bench is a sign of a sick mind, so be it."


And a messy workbench is a sign of active modelling? 

I have a box full of parts from broken engines and cars as my workbench

[Yampa Bob]

Uh, I think you posted the wrong picture. Obviously the modeler who originally posted that picture is of a sound and rational mind who has his priorities in order. The decor expresses a state of organization, order and tranquility. 

There is only one "Mad Scientist" on this board. That honor was bestowed on me by other members after seeing the weird creations that emerge from the "laboratory".

Now, as I was saying, note the 6 red job trays.  I acquired over 100 of these during an earlier professional period.

Ah, peaceful insanity. 

Note there are no labels on the organizer above the bench.  Why?  Glad you asked. By opening all 52 drawers looking for the part I need, I maintain a mental inventory of all the stuff I don't need. With this method, it only takes about 20 years to memorize where stuff is at.