Glue, glue, everywhere

[Beatthe9ers]

I took the plunge and bought a Branchline kit the other day along with various tools and other supplies, including some Testors plastic cement that Yampa Bob had suggested (I believe it is #8872, don't have it in front of me).

The cement works just fine, but I am having trouble with the amount that I am getting.  The Testors in question comes with a precision, needle-like applicator, but even when I get what seems to me like the smallest possible drop of liquid to come out, it ends up being too much on the model.  It's fine on the big pieces, but the small ones end up swimming in plastic cement.  Does anyone have any technique tips for me?  Maybe my approach is all wrong.  I've been trying to wipe off the excess glue, but even when that works there is still too much on there, and it's extremely dificult to do given the size of the pieces I am trying to attach.  Many of the pieces are as small and thin as ant legs.  Large ant legs, but ant legs nonetheless.

Any thoughts?

[Guilford Guy]

I have a scrap piece of styrene, where I put a  drop of glue on, then dip the point, or side of the piece in question, onto that.

[ebtnut]

You could try using a regular sewing needle mounted in pin vise.  Dip the needle point into the cement and touch it to the work.  Also, using a very small (like 0000) artist's paint brush can work well.  Get the pure red sable hairs, not the white synthetic type. 

[Beatthe9ers]

Hmmm, answers so sensible it makes the question seem foolish.

[SteamGene]

It's called being shot over.    In my experience, both suggestions work fine, depending on technique.  For instance, in attaching grabs, if you put glue to the grab BEFORE putting them in the carbody holes, use GG's method.  If you use the Nut's brush, do it AFTER the grabs are in the carbody.   In some instances, like having to glue a coupler pocket cover to the pocket, you just can't use GG's method. 
BTW, which level Branchline did you start with?  There are many easier kits where applying grabs, ladders, roofwalks, etc are necessary than Branchline. 
Gene

[Beatthe9ers]

The Blueprint Series.  I like their 1930's era billboard URTX cars.  I bought some of the RTR versions, but they have a much more extensive collection in the kits, so I decided to build my own.

[Yampa Bob]

9ers
It's mostly technique, and lots of practice.  I've worked with very tiny pieces so many years, I guess it just comes natural.

I think the best suggestion, from GG,  is to touch the tiny piece to the cement, rather than trying to apply cement to the piece.  Does that make sense? LOL.  Let me add something.  Dip the piece in the cement, a very tiny dab and let it set up a bit,  then dip it again.  Double cementing is an old practice that makes a better bond.

Perhaps you are starting out with too delicate a kit.  Maybe get some practice on simpler kits as Gene mentioned. 

I also use the thin Plastic CA for very tiny pieces. It "wicks" into small joints, but you have to hold things steady until it cures a bit.  A spritz of "kicker" helps.

Bob

[Running Bear]

I use a toothpick to apply the cement to the parts in question. They're cheap, plentiful and can be found in most any store for a very low price. One of the best modeling aids ever devised.

[THB-DAVE]

I mostly use Tamiyas Extra Thin Cement  in the square 40 ml bottle and apply it to the back of the model and allow the cement to wick through into the hole. If the hole dosent go all the way through just drill it out with a pin vice. 
Dave

[Beatthe9ers]

Bob, I'm getting the feeling that I jumped into the deep end of the pool, but now that I am here, I might as well start swimming.  I don't mind of the first few attempts turn out less than stellar, as long as they don't look ridiculous (and I have a pretty high tolerance for ridiculous) and they roll well, then that will be okay by me.  Besides, it might be fun to see the progression of my skills over time, assuming there will be some.



Dave, that sounds like an excellent suggestion.

[ebtnut]

I might also suggest that you don't depend on only one cement.  As noted, in some cases CA may be better, depending on the items to be attached (for instance, if the grabs were metal rather than plastic, use the CA).  It is generally better to assemble the parts and then apply the cement, either with the needle, toothpick, or brush.  Whenever possible, apply the cement where it won't be seen after final assembly.  Testor's is a bit "slow", so you sometimes use the "double-dip" method.  Others, like Tenax, are so volatile that they evaporate before you can apply the cement and then try to insert the part into the mounting hole.  For those types, you need to assemble, then apply.  But they set very quickly.  Also, if you run across some ABS plastic, you need a special formulation for that material.  Delrin, which is used a lot for truck frames and coupler boxes, needs CA or some other adhesive since it is almost impervious to most "plastic" cements. 

[SteamGene]

If you start building structures some other rules begin to take effect, too.
Gene

[Yampa Bob]

If I could only have one cement for styrene, it would be the 8872. But sometimes the old reliable 3501 thicker stuff in a tube works well.

The cement will shrink as it evaporates, so give it time, you may be doing better than you realize.   Don't expect perfection on this first one,  but it will definitely improve your modeling skills.

Now that you are in deep waters, you will either sink or swim.

Bob

[Yampa Bob]

9ers
I just did some experimenting with the 8872 cement.  I think the problem is the way you are handling the bottle.  Try this:

Lay a scrap piece of styrene on the bench.  Try to make the smallest dot of cement as possible.  I was able to make a dot about 1/3 mm.  There is a trick to this,  don't use the whole dot that comes out. 

As you squeeze the bottle, a larger drop tries to come out.  Just before touching the glue to the styrene, release pressure on the bottle. This actually sucks the cement back into the tube a bit.  With just the right timing, touch the tiny amount still at the tip to the styrene, and the cement will be drawn to the styrene. 

This is why I like this particular cement.  It has just enough viscosity to not run all over the place, yet still thin enough to be "teased" into the joint.

As for the "ant leg" pieces, they need a tiny bead around the part for support, a simple "butt joint" won't hold.   When you get that drop down to 1/2 mm or less, you will love that cement.

"Practice doesn't make perfect, perfect practice makes perfect" (Vince Lombardi)

Bob