Questions re: DCC Conversions of Athearn F-7s

[BradKT]

First of all, I would like to thank all who have responded to my various inquires on the Bachmann Message Board.  I have always received either the correct answer or one that worked for me.  This is an invaluable resource for model raildroaders who need answers to the questions that many of you have already answered, so a big "Thank You" to all.

I have several Bachmann DCC engines and I want to convert my 10 or so Athearn engines (these are the olders ones) to DCC (no sound) as well.  Several of the Athearns are F-7s.  Because it is fairly expensive to convert that many engines to DCC, I would like to learn how to do it myslf.  Is there a realy good set of instructions re: how to do this and what would be the best type(s)of decoder to use?  Where can I find this information?

I hope that it OK to ask this question on Bachmann's site.

Finally, I have heard much talk about the need to "isolate" the engine.  What exactly does that mean?

[Yampa Bob]

Brad
The best source of information is at the following site:

http://www.tonystrains.com

On DC locos that are not DCC Ready, the pickup wires are connected directly to the motor.  For DCC, the pickups have to be isolated from the motor and fed to the circuit board or decoder,then back to the motor and lights.  Many decoders come with pigtail wires requiring soldering of connections.  It's fairly easy if you are used to working with small circuits, and of course a small soldering iron.

Tonys has a staff of very friendly technicians who are glad to help you choose the correct decoder for your locos, and there are technical PDFs available for download.

Bachmann has single function decoders (no sound) without a plug that would possibly work.  I think the main issue is lack of extra room in a diesel locomotive, but it can be done.

Your question is very appropriate here. Others will be in with suggestions on the proper decoders for your models.

Bob

[Guilford Guy]

Athearns can be a pain to add DCC to, due to how the motor is set up. It can be done, just isn't very easy. First, remove the motor from the well in the chassis. First off, Solder the orange wire to the copper plate on the bottom, preferably not on the bottom since it will not sit well, but on the side. Cut a strip of paper that will be able to cover the copper entirely, if it doesn't everything else is useless... put a dab of white glue on on ened of the copper plate, and place the paper on plate, the glue will hold it in place when you reattach the motor to the frame. Next, discard the metal bar which runs from the wheel pick-ups to the motor. Solder the gray wire to the copper plate on the top of the motor. Next, solder the black wire to the frame, and the red wire to one of the truck pick ups, and another wire from that pick up to the one on the other end of the loco. You will have to discard the headlight since its pretty much unusable. Find an LED, and solder 1 end to the blue wire, and the other end to the white wire. Use a bit of electrical tape to hold the LED in place. Finally use some electrical tape to tape the decoder to the roof, and make sure all wire are out of the way of the moving parts. Program, and enjoy...

[BradKT]

Those are about the clearest directions that I have heard.  Any ideas on what the right decoder would be?  Please be specific.  I have about 7 or 8
F-3s, F-7s, F-9s and FTAs that I want to convert.  I use the Bachmann EZ DCC Power Pack with the bachmann 5 amp booster.

And where could I get an LED light to replace the discarded headlight?  I am not trying to nitpick...I am just trying to get my ducks in a row before I do this. 

It sounds like it would be a good idea to practice the first time on an an older F-7.

Oh...I almost forgot.  Would these same directions (and same type of decoder) apply to the F-3, F-7, F-9 and FTA "B" units.  I have several of those that are powered as well.

[Yampa Bob]

Brad
Again I would urge you to visit Tonys Trains.  They are experts and will tell you exactly what you need and how to do it.  They have many pictures of an actual installation.

Bob

[Stephen D. Richards]

Brad, those directions will work on all your Athearn locos.  Any brand name, non sound decoder will work.  I would get the pigtail type (no plug installed).  Walther's has the lights or even Radio Shack!  Watch your LED input though.  Actually, Radio Shack has everything you will need to convert except the decoder.  Bachmann, Digitrax, etc, just about any will work if you are just looking for basic functions.  Stephen

[pdlethbridge]

A great resource for decoder installs is here:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Installation_list_by_Manufacter.htm
Any of the older drives like nw-2 sw-1500 and sd45 would provide you with the info you need
this is a good site as well:
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/write_ups.htm
one other site you can try, would be digitrax. they now sell a solderless decoder specifically designed for the older Athearn diesels, DH163AT the middle one shown

[hindmarch]

Hi Brad, i have also converted several of these loco,s plus a number of steam loco,s ,i know the problems with not enough space,i fit digitrax DZ125 N decoder without the 8 pin plug,the spec is the same as a HO decoder and there is plenty room without doing any machining on the weight.Regards Bryan

[BradKT]

That was a great suggestion re: the DH163AT and I think that that is the way I am going to go.  The instructions sound simple enough and I will use an older Athearn F-7A engine the first time. 

It also appears that if I go this route, I won't have to replace the engine light(s).

Question:  In the on-line installation instructions for the DH163AT, I didn't see anything about the need to isolate the motor from the frame (removing the motor and putting some paper over the copper plate under the motor).  Will I still need to do that as well?

[pdlethbridge]

You have to remove the motor to replace the bottom clip that has metal pieces that touch the frame. The motor should NOT touch the frame anywhere so put some electrical tape under the motor to be on the safe side. There are two plastic pieces that hold the motor, flexible plastic. The motors are very easy to remove and if one of the motor mounts comes out with the motor, just put it back in the holes in the frame. You'll notice that you have a long clip on the top of the motor that touches the wheel assemblies and a short clip that holds the motor together top and bottom. Those all get replaced

[BradKT]

Thank you everybody.  I think I have the information that I need to do this now.

[BradKT]

A follow-up question: you spoke about replacing certain clips (the long clip and one under the motor).  With what?  Do parts to do so come with the decoder?

[pdlethbridge]

If you noticed in the photo I provided there are to clips about 1 1/2" long with curved ends. these replace the ones on the motor, top and bottom. These clips hold the motor together and also hold the brushes and springs in place. be careful pulling them off or be prepared to do some searching.
In this picture you can see the short clip holding the top of the motor. There is one at the bottom as well. The other clips on the decoder attach to the metal prongs attached to the trucks and the light holder at the front.

[BradKT]

Excellent information!  I've got it now.  The information and pictures that you have provided in response to my questions should be a road map to anyone who is performing their own DCC conversions on Athearn diesel locomotives.

Again, thank you!

[RAM]

pdlethbridge I have been in some clinics where they said to take the top clip and move it to the
bottom and the bottom one go to the top.  They also said that it is better if you have spare clips so
you can take one of and replace it before going to the other.  This was the brushes do not go
flying into space.  I have never tried to do this, but if the long one on the bottom makes contact
and you replace it with the short one which would not make contact..