coupler conversion

[Big O]

I have several Bachmann freight cars manufact. in 1970's, which have old-style hook-horn couplers which attach to the trucks. There does not appear to be any screws which attach the trucks to the body of the car.
Is there an adapter or any means of easily converting these cars to today's magnetic couplers? If so, how?

[Alexraptor]

Are you sure? the mounting screws for the trucks should be right under the cars, usually one big screw per truck.

[Yampa Bob]

Cars that old may have snap in trucks.  If they do, the only way to upgrade is cut out the coupler mount tab and adapt the plate to hold a knuckle coupler.

Or...take off the trucks, drill out the bolster and install styrene rod to fill the hole. Drill new hole for a modern bettendorf or other truck.  Install a #148 Kadee draft box on the bottom of car floor at the correct  coupler height  of  25/64", measured from top of track to center of knuckle.  Total cost to upgrade is about $5.00, so you have to consider if the cars are worth it.

Some say you can cut some of the horn away and make it work with  knuckle couplers, I never tried it.  Maybe others will come in and explain it.

Bob

[Big O]

TO ALEXRAPTOR: Yes, I am sure. Looks to be a snap-in type truck.

TO YAMPA BOB:  Many thanks. These look to be the snap-in type trucks and me not being very mechanically inclined, I was hesitant to apply much pressure to remove. However, I believe you have provided the necessary into. to allow me to make a decision.

[RAM]

On the box type cars I would cut the coupler off and body mount the couplers with KD#5  Tank and hopper cars I think it is a harder job.  I don't think there is anything there to mount the coupler.

[Yampa Bob]

Big O

Remove any weight from the top of floor to access the lock tabs.  Use a small screw driver and bend the tabs inward while pulling hard on the truck. It should pop right out. If the body is glued on, twist the truck sideways and cut it off with a fine saw.

I picked up a 1/4" capacity Jacobs chuck at the hardware store to hold a 3/16" bit, makes a great hand vise.

At first I used  solid 3/16" styrene rod to fill the bolster hole after drilling it out. It was tricky drilling the 1/16" pilot hole straight and centered.

An easier method is to glue in about a 3/4" length of 3/16" styrene tubing, let it stick below the bolster.  After that dries, glue a length of 1/8" tubing inside the 3/16".  Now you have a straight hole just right for a 2-56 machine screw.  Cut the tubes a tad lower then the  bolster and square them up. 

Barely tap the hole, just enough to let the bolt threads grab.  Let the bolt finish the tapping, the bolt should turn fairly hard for precise adjustment of swivel.

After mounting the #148 coupler, check height with a Kadee height gauge.  If the coupler is a bit high, gradually sand down the tube until the height is right.

If you sand down to the original bolster and the coupler is still too high, shim under the draft box.

I use Model Power #9400 trucks with metal wheels, about $2.90 a set.  Great value,and they roll great even without reaming.

I've rebuilt over 50 old cars my friends found at yard sales and gave me. It's very satisying to get an old klunker on the line and it improves your modeling skills.

Good luck

Bob

[Yampa Bob]

I like to throw this link in occasionally. 

I buy 2-56 machine screws, pan head phillips,  from Fastenal in bulk, from 57 cents  per 100 to $6.00 per 100.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=28513
Link is for 1/4",  change search list  in "machine screws" for other lengths.

Check for a Fastenal outlet in your city.  If you don't mind waiting for their regular shipment of other stuff, they won't charge you freight.

An assortment of 1/8", 3/16",1/4" 5/16" and 3/8" will attach anything on a car.

Bob

[ta152h0]

my father ( rip ) got po'd at me once when i took his Minolta and removed  one of the screws out of his lens. he was not happy but it worked attaching the motor frame back together

[Paul M.]

Some say you can cut some of the horn away and make it work with  knuckle couplers, I never tried it.  Maybe others will come in and explain it.

Bob

Anybody tried this? It sounds like it would be a great idea if it were relatively easy to carve away at it...

[Yampa Bob]

Paul
I read it here on the forum about a week ago.  I threw all my horn hooks away so I can't experiment.  If you have one to look at, it shouldn't be too hard for you.

Bob

[SteamGene]

I really don't think it's worth the effort.  If you run short, light trains the Kadee clones will work fine and are cheap. 
Gene

[topsir2]

Yampa Bob - Where can I find the styrene tubing. I have 6 old Bachmann box cars that need new trucks and couplers replaced.

[Yampa Bob]

Topsir

The 1/8" is Plastruct #90604
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDM35&P=7

The 3/16" is Plastruct #90605
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDM36&P=7

You will also want Testors #8872 liquid cement, it is the best for this. Not real runny, a medium cement that spreads evenly.  It's now the only cement I use.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHN86&P=7

As for couplers, the clones are about $1.50 a pair and don't come with boxes.  The Kadee #148  is $2.00 a pair and come with an easy to install box that snaps together.   I can assemble it by feel and only takes one screw to mount. 

I figure any car worth my time to rebuild deserves the best coupler.

Bob

[Paul M.]

Paul
I read it here on the forum about a week ago.  I threw all my horn hooks away so I can't experiment.  If you have one to look at, it shouldn't be too hard for you.

Bob

Bob,
I carved away at the horn-hook (X2F) couplers until I found a good pattern. So far, I've converted 3 hopper cars, and they're almost as good as real knuckle couplers.