I need some 'specific' advice, please!

[lanny]

Hi all,

I am getting ready to purchase a 'hot knife' (to cut foam/insul/styrofoam board). It will be used to create rough foundation shapes for scenery, but also, I would like to be able to create styrofoam bases for my 'coal drag' train hoppers (hopefully much less expensive than buying commericially available coal loads for hoppers!).

Having never owned owned or used a 'hot knife' with styro. I would appreciate suggestions: things to watch out for when using them as well as specific brand names that are good and reliable for this kind of work. There seems to be several different kinds/brands, and I really don't know which would work best, or, if I would need two different sizes of these knives for the things I want to do with them.

Thanks for any and all help and suggestions.

lanny nicolet

[Virginian]

Watch out you do not burn yourself, or get any long plastic melted stringers near any of your track or equipment.  Seriously.

[HOplasserem80c]

i am just saying those things are dangerous...so i didn't use one i got my best steak knife and cut it.it gave it a distinked look.

[Nigel]

Hi Lanny;

I have two hot "knives" that are very different.

One is a battery (2X D-cells) powered hot wire that I purchased at Hobby Lobby.  It cuts very well and fairly quickly, but it can only get about 4" into a piece of foam, and is limited to about 1" thick foam.  I am very pleased with it, and it was rather inexpensive.

The other one I have I made from a soldering gun.  The "blade" is a piece of 12 guage copper wire bent into shape, flattened and trimmed at the end.  It makes rather sloppy cuts, but can do deep plunges.  Given that you can get a soldering gun for well under $10 (Harbor Frieght), it is also rather inexpensive.

I have not seen any strings with these two tools cutting extruded foam.

[the Bach-man]

Dear Lanny,
I have two from Woodland Scenics. They are both hot wire cutters. I also have two from Micro Mark, which are hot knives. They are all useful in different situations.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[SteamGene]

I just bought one.  Like Nigel described, it's powered by two D cell batteries.  I assembled it, turned it on, the wire glowed red and snapped.  Thoughts?
Gene

[lanny]

Thanks Mr. Bach Man, Nigel, Virginian and others who gave helful advice. I have some solid info to follow up on now.

Gene ... I don't know what took place with your knife, but it sounds to me like you have a case for 'returning' the knife and getting a new one or your money back.

Again, everyone, thanks for the advice on hot knives ... Virginian, I can understand completely the importance of being careful not to get burned or drop melted material in unwanted places on the layout. Thanks for the reminder, guys!

lanny nicolet

[SteamGene]

Lanny,
The wire put on again, the thing works great!
Gene

[Nigel]

I just bought one.  Like Nigel described, it's powered by two D cell batteries.  I assembled it, turned it on, the wire glowed red and snapped.  Thoughts?
Gene

Gene;

It was probably a defect in the wire.

[SteamGene]

OTOH, I used the rest of the wire for the second installation and it's working fine.  I think I may have put the wire under too much tension the first time.
Gene

[lanny]

Gene, Nigel,

Tell me more about 'tension' on the particular tool you both are talking about. What is 'too much' tension? Shouldn't the wire be 'taut'?

thanks!

lanny nicolet

[SteamGene]

It should be taunt, yes.  They say to depress the bar about 1/2 inch.  I think the first time I did about 1", so as soon as the wire got hot, it snapped, being under too much tension.   So if you get one, just depress the bar a little, so that when you release it, the wire is straight, but not stressed out.
Gene

[lanny]

Thanks very much, Gene!

lanny nicolet