Coupler conversion advice?

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

Can anybody tell me if there is any resource available that can tell me exactly which Kadee coupler to use to convert a particular manufacturer's model to knuckle couplers?

I'm the proud new owner of a Spectrum American, so I finally need to convert some of my rolling stock from horn-hooks to knuckle couplers in order for her to have something to pull. 

Some of the cars I'm interested in converting include Mantua "1860" freight cars and "1890" passenger cars (couplers are truck-mounted); MDC/Roundhouse 36-ft. old-time boxcars and "Overton" passenger cars (couplers are body-mounted); Athearn 40-ft. boxcars (couplers are body-mounted); possibly some Mantua equipment of varying ages (some with body-mounted and some with truck-mounted couplers). I've also got a couple of Con-Cor coaches that are essentially the old AHM/Rivarossi Virginia & Truckee cars (couplers are truck-mounted).

Any advice in how to find out what Kadees I would need will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[RAM]

Try kadee.com

[grumpy]

Try the 148  or 158 . I have converted about 20 cars using these couplers.

Don

[SteamGene]

The standard is the #5.  It depends on whether you want to use a whisker spring or a metal insert spring.  Get rid of the truck mounted (Talgo) couplers.  Either cut off the box or replace the trucks and body mount a Kadee coupler pocket to the car itself.  You may need to shim it.
Gene

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

Thanks, folks! Much obliged!

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

Thanks again to RAM, Don, and Gene for their advice on coupler conversion. Tonight I performed my first coupler conversion, and it was successful.

I installed a pair of Kadee #5 couplers on an MDC/Roundhouse "Overton" combine. OK, it was a simple drop-in replacement, which may not sound like much, but it's a big deal to me!   

[Yampa Bob]

Jeff
I have rebuilt/converted about 100 various cars, using the Kadee #148 Whisker and box assembly. For me it's a bit easier to assemble.

I bought a bunch of the Mantua vintage coaches as you described with truck mounted couplers, they are easy to upgrade.

Take the shell off and remove the weight. From the inside  remove the snap in truck with a small screwdriver or narrow pliers.   Cut off the coupler extension and  the snap post and file down to a flat plate.  Round the plate where you cut off the old coupler. Then fill the 2 holes with styrene rod.  The holes vary in size with different models, but usually 1/8" works.  Let glue dry thoroughly. Trim and sand  rods down to the plate. Drill exact center of plate with 1/16", then enlarge with 3/32" and you now have a usable truck.

For the bolster, drill out the snap in hole by hand  to 3/16" working from the inside.  I have a small Jacobs chuck from an old drill that makes a good hand drill vise.  Glue in a short piece of 3/16" styrene tubing and let dry. Glue a piece of 1/8" tubing inside that.  File or sand tubes  down to original bolster flat.  I use 1/2" to 3/4" long pieces and let the tubes stick up inside above the floor. This gives more length for secure bolting.  Drill holes in the weight to clear the tubes.

Barely run a 2-56 tap in the center tube, just enough to start a bolt. Don't tap all the way as the hole is a bit larger than required for a full thread tapping, just let the bolt make the threads.  Ideally the bolt should be a bit hard to turn so you can precisely adjust truck swivel.

Line up the 148 box with the end, drill a 1/16" hole in the floor, tap for 2-56 and fasten with a bolt. Set on track and check coupler height with Kadee height gauge.  It will be close, you may have to shim under the box with washers or styrene. 

If it is off, I prefer the coupler to be too high, which just requires adding small pieces of  .010 styrene to the floor bottom.  If the coupler is too low, then you have to shim between the truck and bolster with Kadee shims.  They have 2 sizes,  .010 and .015 .

Ream the axle journals and install Kadee 33" metal wheelsets

To convert other cars, I have found that for most trucks ,  if the level of the bolster is 3/16" lower than the bottom of the floor, you will be very close to coupler gauge height. 

If you have any problems, or my instructions aren't clear, send me a mail and I'll send some photos of the ones I've done.

Bob

[GN.2-6-8-0]

Johnson bar

One other thing you'll need in case you don't already have one is a Kadee coupler height gauge. alot of us will mount 2 of them facing each other about 12 to 15 inchs apart.that way you need not have to pick up and turn the car /engine around while checking the coupler heights on either end.

Jus' my 2 bits

[Yampa Bob]

GN
Please read paragraph 6 in my post LOL

Good idea about having 2 gauges.  However I just move the gauge instead of rotating the car.   

Another essential tool is the Kadee trip pin plier. Since I don't use magnets, I bend the glad hand up a bit before assembling the coupler.   

I do have 2 of the reamers, those little suckers have a habit of getting misplaced.

I'm surprised that Mantua still uses the Talgo trucks, however I'm not complaining.  For the cost of  metal wheelsets, couplers  and a bit of work, they are a bargain at $8.00. 

It is a quick drop in fix on cars with molded in boxes, however the box is not as smooth as the Kadee replacement.  If I experience the slightest binding, I cut or grind off the box and use the complete 148 assembly. 

Bob

[SteamGene]

There are three things I always do now when installing Kadee couplers.  The first is to file the paint off both sides of the shank, filing perpendicular to the length of the coupler.  The second is to turn the tip of the gladhand up.  I use a small pair of needlenose pliars, which work fine.  The third is to squirt some graphite in the coupler box.
Gene

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

Bob, GN, Gene,

Thanks much for all the suggestions! They are very much appreciated.

Jeff

[Yampa Bob]

Don't pay $3.00 for eight 2-56 X 5/16" machine screws.  Look for a "Fastenal" store near you or click the link.  100 bulk price is....get this...only 52 cents.  That's not each, that's total.  Other lengths vary from 2 cents to 5 cents each depending on jobber.    They just opened a new store here,  they ordered 500 various lengths for me, and no shipping if I didn't mind waiting a week for their regular freight.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=28519

To see other lengths, click (remove) on the search criteria and you can enter a new length.  They have the hard to find 1/8" length currently at $3.00 per hundred.

For those who prefer (shudder) self tappers, they have them in bulk also. 

Bob