AWG wiresize

[blf]

What are the sizes of wire used in DCC applications for HO size decoders and motor connections. Can't find this info on the form search. Bill

[richg]

What are the sizes of wire used in DCC applications for HO size decoders and motor connections. Can't find this info on the form search. Bill

That surprises me.
Not a problem and you have all kinds of links to save in Favorites.
Your PC is a powerful device if you take time to learn how to use it.
Google should be your best friend. There are other search engines you can use also.

http://tinyurl.com/7wr88e6

Rich

[blf]

Can't find anything but buss wiring and feeder wiring. Was asking about inside the locomotive. Thanks for the link. I'm a model railroader and don't know that much about the internet. . Bill

[Jerrys HO]

Bill

The first one I opened had the answer.

http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17586

Jerry

[Len]

According to decoder maker Train Control Systems (TCS) web site it's 32 gauge. They sell packs of it in different colors. Not sure if Digitrax does or not, as I haven't checked their web page in a while.

Len

[blf]

Thanks everyone. Found some info somewhere with a chart I down loaded that has all wire sizes listed with there wire sizes in thousandths and current specs. Seems 30awg is a small size to handle short circuit spikes. Will keep looking. DCC Doctor likes 29 gauge for main truck pickup. Litchfield sells 30 gauge in all colors, but have to buy all of them. Not a bad price though. Bill

[Doneldon]

What are the sizes of wire used in DCC applications for HO size decoders and motor connections. Can't find this info on the form search. Bill

blf-

You have two kinds of wire in your layout: buss or supply wires and feeder wires.

Buss wires carry current from your control system to points where electricity is needed. Buss wires are generally #14 or #16 AWG. Sixteen gauge wire, like the wire on a lamp, is adequate for most small- and medium-size layouts. It's always stranded wire, which makes it a little easier to handle, and is about the cheepest wire you'll find. Fourteen gauge wire is like most of the wires in your walls and you'll find that it's a bargain if you buy it as nonmetallic cable (romex) though you will have to strip the sheath off. Many layouts will have two wires used to supply DC power for tracks and two more (use two different colors) for power to lights, turnouts and other accessories. If you have AC trains, like three-rail Lionel, you could run just one pair of wires for everything but that's not such a good idea. Better would be to have one set of AC wires for track power and a second pair for accessories.

Feeder wires are the short (12" maximum length) ones which run from your buss/supply wires up to tracks and accessories. These are typically very small gauge wires like #22 - #28, and sometimes even a little smaller. Their tiny cross-sections are why they must be kept so short; such small wires can carry only small amounts of current safely and without too much transmission loss (the cost of doing business when you are sending electricity along a wire). Common bell wire is the hardware store name for these smaller wires, or you can buy wire labeled as hobby wire from a hobby shop and pay a lot more for it. I strongly urge the use of stranded wire for feeders because it is easier to work with due to its greater flexibility. It also makes for stronger soldered joints.
                                                                                                    -- D

[electrical whiz kid]

You can find stranded THHN, THWN,  THNN, etc in rolls at any electrical supply house or most home improvement houses.  Stranded wire is the way to go, as it is less subject to breakage due to its flexibility.  It can be soldered, pressure connected (screw terminals) or simply using standard connectors like wirenuts. 
On my layout, #12 is the standard used on buss while #18 stranded is used as pigtails to track.  You can use standard wirenuts, suitcase connectors, etc. to make connections
Your wiring standards should also have a colour code for different functions, espeially if you are using the ame size for more than one function.
Keep your wiring systematic-and NEAT!  Also, draw up a good wiring diagram of what you have-and keep track of changes you make, no matter how insignificant they are.
There is a lot of debate as to how heavy the busses should be.  I prefer #12; I am comfortable with that size.  In the industry (of which I am a part), #12 THHN is generally good for 20 amps, rated  at 600 volts.

[Doneldon]

EWK-

Twelve gauge wire is overkill and overspend except on the very largest layouts or where heavy current is used. Similarly, the heat resistent wires you cite cost significantly more than wires with standard insulation. Hardly anyone runs a model train through an oven or water heater so the heat resistent insulation adds only cost, not quality, ampacity or convenience. I do agree with you 100% on the value of stranded wire although I usually save the added cost on busses as I don't need the flexibility there and it's easier to strip a bit of insulation off of the middle of a solid wire without damaging the conductor than it is with stranded wire.

-- D

[Len]

Ummmm...guys, Bill was asking about decoder connection wiring, not layout wiring. And decoder wiring is usually 29, 30, or 32 gauge, depending on the manufacturer.

Len