Blackening side rods on steamers

[Dave G.]

Is there a product, besides paint, that you can brush on to paint running gear on steamers?

Appreciate answers.

Dave

[GN.2-6-8-0]

There is a product called I believe Blacken-it on the market that is suppose to be very effective...

[THB-DAVE]

Another good product is NEOLUBE. It blackens metal, is conductive and is a lubicant.

Dave

[Dave G.]

Thanks guys for the responses. 
Shiny running gear certainly doesn't look like right on steam engines.
They look like they have been working when they are black!

Dave

[richG]

Is there a product, besides paint, that you can brush on to paint running gear on steamers?

Appreciate answers.

Dave

I use Neolube.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83181

I use this brush on the surface first.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82466A

The Neolube can be rubbed off with handling but can easily be applied again.
I also use it on new NS wheelsets, again using the brush first.

You can also remove the rods and put them in Blacken It. You have to rinse the rods with water after.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=60864

Rich

[James Hail]

I used blacken it on the wheels and siderods of a IHC 2-8-0 and they look very used, but its a pain to strip them off the loco to do.And rinsing is a must ...its a acid.

[Virginian]

Actually, Blacken it is a salt.  Gun blue will often get things started a lot faster on alloy that doesn't really want to turn black.  Also, it adds some tooth to the metal so paint will stick a whole lot better.

[r.cprmier]

Virginian;
How do you get gun bluing to work on non-ferrous metals?  I tried it once, having the big idea to beat the program, buy about a quart of this stuff, and do some rail before I hand laid it.  The rail is still sitting on the far end of the bench, splotchy.  I have used gun bluing on it's intended victim-guns-and it works well.  What might I have done wrong?

RIch

[Dave G.]

Thanks for the replies - I have learned a few things already about Blacken It and Neo-lube for blacking side rods/running gear.

Question - A couple of you said you removed the rods/running gear to apply Blacken-It -  Is it necessary to remove them or can you brush it on and it will do the work??

Neo-lube might be better as it sounds like you can just brush it on and it drys flat.

Thanks for the links to the sites - I took a look.

Dave

[James Hail]

I tried brushing on "blacken it" and it just beaded up until it breaks through the "chrome" surface....thats when i pulled it apart and tanked the valve gear and rods.

If it beads up it will leave spots on the part .

[richG]

I do this with the side rods on. I "rough" up the rods with the brush I mentioned before. Not sure if it does much to the surface but it is just my way.

Rich

[James Hail]

Ok now you guys have me wanting to blacken the gear on one of the Hudsons i just got.....Full bottle of Blacken it in hand.......I bought 2 (both Mehano Canadian with Smoke ears?) I flat blacked/re lettered one of them and removed the ears so its for freight now.......Also added real coal...they run good,but the black one needs weathered.

Rich are you able to get good results leaving the parts on?........no missed spots ect?....

By the way the 2-8-0 i blackened seems to have developed alot of slop in the siderods......i wonder if this stuff is good long term......engine has been ran "alot" but it was kept lubed......and the parts were rinsed prior to re-installing.

Sorta hesitant to ruin a Hudson this way.

Jim

[Dave G.]

Heys guys, thanks for the discussion on this.

I bought some Blacken-it but have not tried applying yet, that's why I am so interested in your experiences with this and Neo-lube.

Its sounds like if you "roughed up" the surface with light sandpaper or the brush and broke thru the chrome finish and the grease that probably builds up on the running gear just from handling  - that Blacken it would have a better surface not only to adhere to but to get a better, smoother finish - just wondering if that makes sense.

I'll be watching for your comments and anyone else who has made running gear black somehow.

Dave

[James Hail]

WOW that neo-lube looks like the stuff to get........Does it rub off or remove easy?......Will cleaning wheels on a rag with alchohol remove it?......I hope not.......

Here is a detailed spec sheet on its makeup ect.
http://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/neolube1pds.htm

solution of colloidal carbon in isopropanol is Neolube from Huron Industries, Fort Huron, MI. It consists of 10.71% graphite solids in certified pure isopropanol and Thermoplastic Resin as a vehicle

Substrates should be clean and dry before application.  A solvent wipe and air dry is usually sufficient.  For critical applications requiring maximum adhesion, the following pretreatment is recommended:



Steel             Degrease, sand or vapor blast and/or phosphate coat.

Aluminum          Degrease, sand or vapor blast, degrease, Meta Etch or anodize.

Stainless Steel         Degrease, sand or vapor blast and/or Granodine 16 (Amchem)

Copper Alloys           Degrease, sand or vapor blast, degrease, dilute nitric acid dip and water rinse.

Rubber                  Clean with appropriate solvent.

Plastic                 Sand lightly, wipe with appropriate solvent.

Total Solids Content, weight percent    3.3% +/- 0.5%
Maximum particle dimension of 90% of particles    4 Microns
Maximum particle dimension of any particle    10 microns
Lubricant    Processed micro graphite
Binder    Thermoplastic resin
Dilutent    Isopropanol
Consistency    Thin liquid
Shelf life    No limit in closed container
Temperature range    -70 deg F - 400 deg F
Color    Black
Flash Point    52 deg F
Coeffecient of friction    0.030 - 0.090

Jim

[Virginian]

Neolube is the easiest thing around, but I have found you don't need a rag or solvent... just your fingers will take it off just fine.  It is not a paint, and will easily rub right off.  It doesn't dry, per se.  If you can be careful you'll be okay.
I have found, in order to get Gun Blue OR Blacken-It to work well, you need to take the rods or wheels off the engine, thoroughly degrease, and immerse or constantly keep wiping with a wetted Q-Tip to get an even tone.  As far as I know they only work on iron or copper containing alloys.  400 series stainless will darken, and that is usually what you are dealing with, as the 300 series is more expensive.
I do not know what chemical reactions are taking place, but on really stubborn stuff running the bluing or whatever on with a small piece of 00 steel wool has worked well for me.
They say do not get this stuff on your skin.  I have gotten this stuff all over me for 45 years and have never suffered any OBVIOUS ill effects.  Your results may vary, but I sleep okay at night.