EZ Track Turnouts

[CleTrainz]

Howdy,

I am trying to design a layout that has parallel tracks. I was planning on using Bachmann's EZ track for my layout as I am a college student and I am moving a ton. I would love to have some sidings that are parallel to my main line. I have some #5 and #6 Turnouts. What pieces of track will I need to make some parallel sidings. 33.25R 18° Track was a little too many degrees. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Will

[the Bach-man]

Dear Cle,
Since numbered turnouts do not have a curved leg (they have a diverging straight leg), you can use basically any radius.  Simply cur the curve section at the point it give you the parallel siding you desire.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[Len]

The numbered turnouts legs diverge at the following angles. If you don't want to cut an curves, use one of the standard sizes with the matching degree of curvature to make a parallel siding:

#4 - 15 degrees, matching curve: #44531 1/2 section (15 deg) of 18" radius curve.
#5 - 12 degrees, matching curve: #44509 2/3 section (12 deg) of 33.25" radius curve.
#6 - 10 degrees, matching curve: #44530 1/3 section (10 deg) of 18" radius curve.

P/N's for curves are for nickle silver track.

Len

[Wooglin]

Hi Len,  I am playing with the turnout/curve combos in Anyrail software and the only one that provides a truly parallel siding is the #5 combo.  The others start to diverge back to the inside.  Am I missing something?  Because it would make sense there would be a combo to return any turnout to parallel, like the #4 turnout.  Standard 18" radius turnout 44131 works as well with 44501 18" radius curve.

[Terry Toenges]

Wooglin - Just a "heads up" here. I can't speak to the combos you are trying in AnyRail but I have had issues a few times with Anyrail being off when I was trying different layouts with it using E-Z Track. Things just didn't fit together like Anyrail said they would. I don't know if that's the case with your situation.

[trainman203]

Try using flex-track, bending, and cutting to fit.  You will have to supply your own roadbed beneath it though.

[Len]

Wooglin - I think it's an issue with AnyRail. I use RR-Track, a commercial software package, and the combinations I listed all come out parallel.

Len

[jward]

The curve sections Len listed will work. Keep in mind Anyrail is far more exacting than the actual track you will be using. There is enough wiggle in the track joints to adjust things as long as they are close.

If this bothers you, try this in Anyrail: under the Settings tab, look for Tolerances. Here you can adjust both the angle and distance settings. The Angle setting determines how much difference in the angle of the track pieces that will connect under the program. I have mine set at 5. Likewise the Distance setting determines how close the sections must be to connect. Mine is set to 3/8"

You can lay out your parallel tracks using the parallel track tool, and be sure to glue the track so it doesn't shift when connections are made. Then you add the switch and associated curve. The tolerances will allow the connection, and the glued track will not allow the program to shift the track the way it would if it was unglued.

I would NOT recommend using the standard 30 degree switches to lay out parallel tracks as this introduces a wicked 18" radius S curve into your trackage that will cause problems with longer cars and locomotives. It should be noted that Anyrail will put together any track layout you tell in to if physically possible. Whether that track arrangement will handle your rolling stock is another matter entirely. This is one reason I stick to the numbered switches in any plan I design. Their curved routes are far more gentle than your minimum radius will be.

[Wooglin]

Thanks all for your replies.  @jward, yours was particularly helpful when it comes to working with Anyrail, which I just started using.  I appreciate the advice on tolerance settings and I will play around with that.

Could you please elaborate on the "parallel track tool"?

[jward]

Thanks all for your replies.  @jward, yours was particularly helpful when it comes to working with Anyrail, which I just started using.  I appreciate the advice on tolerance settings and I will play around with that.

Could you please elaborate on the "parallel track tool"?

The parallel track tool works with flex track. But in your case it could be used for sectional track as well.

You have a long straight that you'd like to have a siding next to. You'd place the switch where you want, then instead of using sectional track on the straight, you use a section of flex track instead. Right click on the flex track once you have placed and connected it. In the drop down menu you will find an option called "add parallel flex. click on that, and it'll give you options for how far away from the existing track, and what side of the track you want the parallel track to be placed.

Once you have the track placed, you can go back and replace the original fles track with sectional pieces, and you can bend the end of your parallel flex track to connect with your switch. It comes in handy if you want track on specific centers. I find in HO a 2" center to be the minimum practical distance between tracks.

[Wooglin]

Thanks jward!  I'll try this out with Anyrail.  Appreciate the feedback!