Recommendations for HO scale DCC engines with sound and lights installed

[Martha]

Need some advice or recommendations for a HO scale DCC engine with sound and lights pre installed. I see many that say they are DCC ready or DCC ready sound. I want one that I take out of the box put on the track set the engines number in the digitrack controller and the lights and sound and Horn and engine start up all work. I'm looking for either CSX or Amtrak engines but open to other suggestions. I don't feel comfortable installing a decoder unless someone here has a very good how to video. I do have the bachman controller for DCC and I also have digitrack which I plan to use primarily.

Also question. Is it safe to run DC engines on the track using either the bachmann DCC controller or the digit track controller. When I try to do this the engine's hum before they start moving is that harmful to these older ho DC analog engines I have?   

One last thing I want to give a shout out to doc who passed a few years back. He was always giving excellent advice on here for many many years I miss his comments and suggestions and advice.

[jward]

Any DCC controller should be able to run DCC sound engines. That said, some of the older or low end DCC systems may not be able to control all sound functions.

You didn't mention whether you were looking for steam or diesel with sound.

Running older DC locomotives on DCC is not a good idea. If you do run them, try not to let them sit on DCC powered track. It can damage the motor if you do this. Adding a decoder to these locomotives shouldn't be difficult or expensive if you're handy with a soldering iron. Look on the websites for TCS, NCE or Digitrax for tutorials on your specific locomotives. Note that these are for non-sound decoders. Adding sound is a bit more difficult and expensive.

[Martha]

Thanks for the valuable information.

[ricktrains4824]

They (Bachmann) did just release the newest Amtrak diesels, DCC & Sound.
Many other DCC with and without Sound Amtrak and CSX units are also available, through various manufacturers. (Atlas, Athearn, Intermountain, ScaleTrains, Walthers, Bachmann, Rapido, and others I may have missed.)

And if "DCC Ready" has a plug, it is simply plug in the decoder. No soldering of any wires needed.
(Unless you are installing sound - Then you need to solder the speaker wires. Or extra lighting functions beyond the standard ones...)
Newer (last several years in fact) DCC Ready are equipped with a quick plug, either 8 or 21 pin. Simply remove the body shell, remove the dummy plug for DC operation, and plug in the decoder.

With a couple of the Digitrax systems, you can run 1 DC loco with address 00, but it is rough on the motors. I really recommend not running DC only on DCC.

[Martha]

How would I know if a decoder was already installed in an engine? I recently bought a new still in the box Genesis Conrail sd70 2576 and was told it was sound ready. Apparently it's DC  so there's no sound just a headlight. We run it on our DC
track. I don't want to repeat that same mistake. I also don't want to have to take apart a brand new locomotive to install a decoder even if it's just a plug-in. My luck I would be breaking it.

And why we're talking decoders how on Earth am I to know which decoder I should be buying to install in an engine. Sorry if I sound so clueless but I guess I really am.

[ricktrains4824]

Ok. I will be specific to your Genesis CR 2576 with this reply.

Non-sound will be easier first time installing than sound, but just barely. (No soldering required.)

This particular unit is indeed quick plug equipped, with a 21 pin plug. Any brand 21 pin decoder will simply be plug (and program) and play. (ESU, TCS, Digitrax, and Soundtraxx/Tsunami all make 21 pin decoders. With or without sound.) Genesis would come from the factory either DCC & Sound equipped, or DCC ready, no decoder installed. They use Soundtraxx Tsunami 2 decoders now, but any 21 pin decoder will work. (I prefer ESU, but others have other preferences. I think each brand has their fans.)

Your particular unit, if non-sound, is also DC Only at this point.

If you wish to install a 21 pin decoder in this model: You will need only a few small simple tools, being a pair of small tweezers, a smaller (jewelers/electronics repair style) size 0 Phillips screwdriver, along with the clamshell package the locomotive came in, the 21 pin decoder, and time and patience.

To remove the shell on this unit, unscrew and remove the two couplers and coupler boxes, and two additional screws located underneath near the fuel tank. (One in front, one in back, one left side, one right side. You will have to lightly rotate the trucks to gain access to these last two screws.) I recommend taking cell phone pics as you pull out the coupler boxes, to assist with reinstalling correctly oriented. (If desired, you can replace the plastic couplers with metal Kadee's at this time.)

Here is where the clamshell packaging is required:

If you still have the clamshell packaging, easiest way to avoid damaging the model is open the clamshell packaging "upside down", with the locomotive resting roof down in the top half of the clamshell packaging. Once these 4 screws are removed, the body shell is able to slide off of the chassis. (CAUTION: Light wires will still be connected to the shell. Do not yank hard on these thin wires.) Again, I recommend letting the shell rest roof down in the clamshell packaging to prevent any damage.
(There are foam cradles available, but if you have the original Genesis clamshell package, it is designed to hold the model without damaging it. Foam cradles, if used incorrectly, can damage details.) All 4 screws will be size 0 phillips heads.

Once the shell is removed from the chassis, you will see a circuit board mounted atop the motor, with multiple wires into it, with a separate smaller square circuit board plugged into it on the top. This is the DC "dummy" plug that gets pulled straight (and I do mean straight) up to remove. (Pulling at an angle will bend the little pins... Don't ask how I know this... So only pull straight up, no twisting or angling of the board.) The 21 pin decoder board will be the exact same size, just more "electronics" to it. It gets installed by pressing straight down over the pins, again taking care to not bend said pins. (This is literally the toughest part.)

If you are installing sound - Speaker wires will need soldered, following decoder manual instructions for placement. Non-sound will need zero wires soldered on this particular locomotive. The speaker location in this model will be specified in the parts diagram that came in the box. (I do not have a Genesis SD70... But if its the same Chassis as their SD70ACe is, I can get a picture for you if you chose to install sound.)

Once installed, simply slip the chassis and body shell back together (while taking care to not pinch wires) and reinstall the couplers, coupler boxes, and the 4 screws. (Tweezers will really come in handy holding these little screws into position.)

Then placing the locomotive on your programming track and programming the required settings (discussed more below) will have it ready to run.

I do recommend picking one decoder brand, and sticking to it with decoders that you install, (If you decide to) making consisting and programming easier to do consistently. Any decoder brand will work with your Digitrax DCC system. (Again, I default to ESU.)

Digitrax does make a PR4 programmer that can connect to any recent computer, via USB port, running freeware software known as DecoderPro (Uses JAVA platform) to assist with decoder programming. It will program all recent decoders, plus older version of almost every brand in existence. DecoderPro programming of decoders is very easy, as you simply select what you want the locomotive decoder to do, type in the address (Road number most times) you want, click through the options, and write to decoder using the computer programmer output on a totally separate track. (I highly recommend this for anyone adjusting any decoder settings, and use it myself on all non-ESU decoders I have in my Locomotive roster. It can also program ESU decoders as well. I just use the ESU specific programmer for their decoders, as it has more capabilities for their brand decoders.)
NOTE: Follow Digitrax Installation Instructions Carefully! Microsoft Windows is kinda dumb with this for whatever stupid reason...

(ESU also makes a computer programmer, but it is specific to only ESU decoders and uses only their program to do so. It does allow decoder firmware to be updated, and allows reprogramming and replacing of their sound files.)

If you are programming through the Digitax system itself, via a separate programming track, each decoder CV setting you need to change will need set individually. (Unless you are not changing it from factory default. Most settings do not get adjusted in most cases.) Most commonly changed are DCC Address (2 or 4 digits, except 00 and 03, most use the locomotive road number, in your case 2576), Start voltage (recommend 1 on this unit, then adjusting up if needed until slow smooth start on throttle step 1.) and momentum. Lighting settings also could be adjusted. (I believe this locomotive has lighted ditch lights? If so, and they have separate wires {F5 and F6 on the circuit board}, they can be programmed to alternately flash, like the prototype does, when DCC Function 2 is pressed. {Horn on Sound decoders.} They then will continue to flash for a set period (generally 5-6 seconds) before going back to solid.)

Programming on the main does work on most settings, but is more difficult. (Can be done. Just a pain in the behind.) If programming on the main via OPS programming, the only locomotive on the rails should be this one. (Separate programming tracks make this easier, as then you know exactly what locomotive is being programmed.)

[Martha]

Wow just wow! You described everything so specifically and so simply and I understood everything that you were saying. Prior to my last reply I had made my own cradle out of the same kind of material that I see they sell. It's working wonderful.  I followed your instructions and removed the shell carefully I saw the circuit boards that you're talking about. It does not have a speaker installed so I will need to do that and I think I could solder well enough to do that.

I went online to see about an ESU decoder and boy howdy there's a lot to choose from out there. Can you give me a few recommendations. I have one other locomotive that is a bachman and it is DCC with lights and bells and everything. I don't know the model right off the top of my head but it came with a track and controller and I think it was called thunder run. I don't know what kind of decoder is in it and I don't know if that matters with getting another decoder for this Conrail.

I truly appreciate all your assistance in this matter. My grandson is 12 and I have been working on layouts for many years. We've now are upgrading to DCC and it is somewhat confusing.

[ricktrains4824]

ESU 58419 is the latest 21 pin Loksound, and includes a "sugar cube" style speaker and enclosure.
ESU 58429 is the same decoder, but no sugar cube speaker, allowing other sized 8 ohm speakers to be used in the place of the sugar cube.
(I am not 100% sure what size the SD70 would normally use. Bigger speakers will produce better sound.)

You will need to have the correct sound file loaded onto it. It would be the "EMD 16-710G3B LATE EXH T" sound file "S0720".

Many retailers will load the sound file for you.

[Martha]

Well good morning. I just typed out a big long reply and try to add photos but it said it was too large and then it said I had already sent the reply but apparently I don't see that I did. So if this is a double sorry about that.

So I opened up the Conrail and found a round cap with two screws that I took off and in there would be the area for the speaker and or sugar cube.

I went online to look and purchase for the decoder with speaker as you recommended however I cannot find any available in the United States at this time. I'm not against ordering from another country I'm just an impatient person when it comes to getting my stuff that I just ordered online and I think it'll take a long time to get it from Germany or Singapore.

I do see other brands and I know that you like ESU is there a secondary choice? Also I see they sell blank decoders that you can download or upload onto it. Is this a simple thing to do?

Would I want to say clear of any that are used that are being sold on by eBay?

[ricktrains4824]

If it is an ESU "Blank" sound decoder, the only way to install sound files is using their LokProgrammer.

There is also the Soundtraxx Tsunami-2 (What Athearn Genesis Factory sound units come with) 21 pin decoders, part number 885823. This would be the "EMD-2" sound set, where the 710-16 cyl. sound fits your locomotive. (CV 123=7 this decoder)
YankeeDabbler and Tony's Train Exchange both show as having a few of this one on hand, unsure on other retailers. (Not affiliated with them, just have used them before for decoder purchases.)

(Tony's can also assist in correct sized speaker if you call them. Round enclosure is generally 28mm in Genesis locomotive units IIRC.)

TCS (WowSound) also makes 21 pin sound decoders, but I did not see the correct one in stock to get a part number.

[Terry Toenges]

You have to use a separate site to upload your photos. Copy the photo's address and put it between the image tags using the photo icon above.

[Martha]

Thanks for the tip on adding photos.

I bought a soundtrack decoder and speaker and should be here in a few days I'll keep you posted on how that turned out.

Thanks to all of you who support me on these things.

[Martha]

I got so excited today the decoder and speaker for the Conrail Genesis came in. I was nervous about soldering the speaker however that seem to have gone just fine. However!!!! Now there's no power or anything to the locomotive. Further investigation I found a small red and a small black wire that came loose. They appear to go to by a round gold cylinder however I don't know which tab I need to solder to which wire? Or if that was even the issue to begin with. I'm very frustrated now because I've tried to solder them on and I'm still not getting any thing nothing. I really could use some help on this.

I know there could be lots of issues why however I don't feel it's not getting the power as my other DCC Powers up.

[ricktrains4824]

Martha,
Generally, in SOP the Red/Black wires are track power, opposite rails.
These would be on opposite ends of the decoder, left and right respectively, outermost tabs. Either front or rear, depending on which truck.

HOWEVER:
Any way you could post a pic? I'm not sure what the small gold cylinder would be referring too, and sometimes the factory wiring can vary from SOP.

If they do not belong where I mentioned, you will fry decoder, or other electronics.