Questions for a first N guage layout.

[Dave_W6DPS]

I am just planning my first N guage layout, and have a few questions. 

I was into HO a few decades ago, and O as a child.

I have been reading books from the library, and lurking on this forum a bit, so I hope to only ask high-quality dumb questions!

I have seen advice against running the track too close to the edge of the benchwork--but how close is too close?  I am planning a folded dogbone (actually twice folded) with a double track mainline around a good part of the perimeter.

I am thinking of the major cuvres being 19 inch radius.  So, 19 inch radius means five inches on each side of 180° curve on a 48 inch wide table.  Should I plan for more clearance from the edges?

I have also thought about having a lip at the edge, to prevent flight of hardware with lousy glide-slopes.  I haven't seen this used much--is there an obvious reason that I am missing?

I am planning on plywood with layers of insulation foam to form three main levels on the layout.  Any suggestions on the preferred type of foam?  Is ahlf-inch under the lowest level enough, or should I plan for 1 inch?  I am planning on layering in half-inch increments to make smoothing the contours a little easier.

Thanks,

Dave

[GlennW]

Dave, welcome to Normal scale railroading.

Try to find an Ntrak club in your area.  They can help you with some ideas. There are no dumb questions. They may merely be some new questions from a new Nscaler.

Running the track too close to the edge makes it look too toylike. You can't do any scenery. Ntrak uses a minimum of 4" from a straight edge, & even larger on curves. You don't want any derailments to put equipment on the floor. You stand a good chance for some of the finer details of Nscale braking or falling off.

Mainline curves depends on what equipment you are operating. Modern diesels & big steamers look better on an 18"R curves. Small diesels & 40ft boxcars can negotiate a tight 10" curve. The tightest for industrial areas is about 8".

The lip at the edge could be done with a thin Masonite sheet that makes the benchwork look more like finished furniture. A coat of paint can have the same effect. You may also find a cheap bookcase or 2 to store tools & equipment not on the layout. It could be a way to have a floor switch that turns off all the power when not in use.

The type of foam depends on what insulation is available in your area. Just don't get white beadboard, as that makes a big mess. You can decide if you want the top to be about 40" from the floor. Having more layers of foam could allow for some different scenic effects. That could allow you to make a cool bridge over a deep canyon or valley where the river runs.

[James in FL]

Five inches is good, I’ve seen a lot less.

A “lip” could be made by tacking ¼ or ½ square Bass or Balsa wood around the perimeter of your bench. With five inches from edge of track to edge of bench ¼ square should do.
If you feel the need to go taller, then I suggest using plexi-glass strips to the desired height.

As for foam, I would suggest extruded polystyrene, either of these;

http://www.owenscorning.com/around/insulation/products/foamular.asp    (pink)

http://www.dow.com/styrofoam/na/res-us/products/styrofoam/square_edge.htm   (blue)

     

[Dave_W6DPS]

Thanks for the replies!

My local Home Depot stocks a blue foam in 4'x8' and 2'x8' sheets in 1/2 inch thickness, which is what I plan to use most of.  I know better than to use the white "bead" stuff.

I am thinking of an outer lip made with a 1x2 centered on the plywood to both stiffen the bench and prevent launching.  I'm currently looking at a 4'x8' layout, with access from all sides.

I am mostly interested in steam from 1920s to 1950s. My grandfather retired as a conductor for the Alton Southern, and I spent some wonder years in Kingman Arizona--playing on ATSF 3759 in "Locomotive Park".

I am planning to start with the "Empire Builder" set, for the Northern 4-8-4.  Of course, it will morph into the 3759 from the 3781 in due time.  I have been comparing photos and marking up the differences--just have to see how the model actually looks.

Thanks,
Dave