new to DCC

[Geeraider]

I'm new to this DCC thing I'm looking at the digitrax system from what I understand all I need is a db210 booster with auto reverse and the new lnwi for Android and I'm good to go if I need any more let me know please

[jward]

i've used Digitrax for about 15 years and i've never needed a booster of any sort. If you have reversing loops or wyes on your railroad you may need autoreversers like the AR1, but i've always been able to handle mine by other methods.

I started with a Zephyr DCS50, and have since replaced it with an newer Zephyr DCS51. But the original unit still works and if i ever need a booster, i can configure it to do the job. I have had very few problems with either unit, and i recommend them to anybody starting out.

[Geeraider]

 I'm looking to control things with my tablet do I need some kind of Command Center or handheld throttle to go along with that lnwi

[bapguy]

The DB210 is a booster only. You need a booster/command station. How many locos will you run? The Zephyr might be the way to go. Or the EVO Evolution Advanced.The AR1 is fine for auto reverse  loops, but I use DCC Specialties OG/AR. The LNWI should allow  your tablet to act as a throttle. On the EVO system, you need the DT500 throttle to turn the system on and off.
Visit  www.digitrax.com/throttleapps/ on your compatible Mobile Wi-Fi
device for a list of supported apps.

[Geeraider]

Yeah i was watching some youtube videos on digitrax the zepher express looks like the way to go,,it has the loconet jacks to plug in the lnwi,,,and i can probably get all that for around two bills at which i was looking to spend,,,thanks bapguy and jward!!!

[Geeraider]

I also have a Athearn Union Pacific SD 50 its DCC ready with the DCC adapter board in it thinking about going with the soundtraxx econami decoder,, I just bought a Bachmann Norfolk Southern SD40 - 2  with decoder and sound ready to go,, I also have an Athearn Union Pacific SD40 T - 2  I need to get a decoder for it,, and I have a much older 1984 Bachmann DD40AX Union Pacific that I want to put a decoder in,,,any suggestions?

[bapguy]

I use Soundtraxx, others Loksound or TCS. On the DD40AX, is it the one with the pancake motor? Better check current draw on it. Most HO decoders are for 1 or 2 AMP stall current. Soundtraxx has a  4 amp decoder, but it might be too large for an HO engine.    Joe

[jward]

Is that Athearn one of the old Blue Box ones? If so. you'll probably want to replace the wheels with something better than the sintered metal ones that caame with it. Also, you'll want to take the time to hardwire around the exiating Athearn pickup system. It was adequate for DC but not reliable enough for DCCs

[Len]

One method of improving the pickup wiring for DC operation of a 'Blue Box' diesel is shown here:
https://newyorkcentrallayout.blogspot.com/2012/07/hardwiring-old-athearn-locomotive-for.html

I prefer to use 'Flag' style 1/4" quick connects on the truck end of the wires. It makes disassembly easier than having to unsolder those connections.

For DCC you pretty much do the same thing with the lower motor clip, except isolate it from the chassis with Kapton tape. Then the upper and lower motor connections to to the decoder instead. And the decoder rail connects go to the truck and chassis.

Len

[prr22]

I have used a zephyr for years and it works extremely well on layouts much bigger than mine as well.  If it is the loconet that you want to use, it is fully compatible.  I use throttles with IR receivers and have friends that use a LNWI with it as well (you could use both at the same time LOL).  Best of luck with DCC!

-Jay

[jward]

One method of improving the pickup wiring for DC operation of a 'Blue Box' diesel is shown here:
https://newyorkcentrallayout.blogspot.com/2012/07/hardwiring-old-athearn-locomotive-for.html



Len

That rewiring is good as far as it goes. I did the exact same thing for my DC Athearns. But for DCC it is only half the job. The other side of the circuit on an Athearn involves current being passes through the truck bolsters to the frame. That is not a good enough connection to be reliable on DCC. You'll want to wire the truck directly to the frame, and the frame itself to the decoder. The problem is, Athearn frames are pot metal or something similar that can't be soldered to. So you have to drill and tap the frame for a couple of brass screws, and solder the truck leads to those. Care must be taken in the location of these screws so that they don't interfere with the body shell. Rewiring the trucks in this way, and replacing the wheels with nickle silver ones will go a long way towards making this a reliable DCC locomotive.