4-4-0 Confederate train problem

[wrg]

I just purchased a new, never used / old stock Bachmann 4-4-0 Confederate train set. When I first tested it before setting it up, it worked. After I set it up, it ran fine. About 8 hours later, when I turned it on again, the light came on but it would not run. After playing around with it, I found that if I push down on the back of the tender, everything works, forward and reverse. As soon as I take off pressure, the wheels stop turning but the light stays on. Has anyone encountered this problem or have any idea what is wrong? I would appreciate any help.

[jonathan]

Wig,

It is very highly likely, after eight hours of running, that things have gotten a little dirty.

When you push down on the tender, you are helping electrical contact by putting pressure on the wheels, track, and the pick up brushes that contact the tender's axles.

These old 4-4-0s were never the greatest runners right our of the box, even when new.

If take a bit of rubbing alcohol and wipe down the track, and clean the wheels, you may find things start running better.

Most poor running is caused by dirty track and wheels. That has been my experience.

Good luck.

Regards,

Jonathan

[wrg]

Thanks for the tip Jonathan. It was actually only about 15 minutes run time out of the box before the second try. I'll do as you suggest.

[Joe323]

Doesn't that point to a need for more weight also?

[jonathan]

Joe,

Normally I would agree with you whole-heartedly. 

I have one of these little beauties, and there isn't any significant space for weight, unfortunately.

I have had success with two exercises:

1)  keep all the contact points really clean; and

2)  bend the tender axle pick up brushes in such a way that just a hair's more pressure is applied to the axles...
     not much, otherwise too much drag is created.  This is a tricky operation.  Once much ensure the tender wheels are put back on EXACTLY the same way they were taken off. If one gets a wheel backwards, a short is created.

Because of the short wheel base, and light weight, the track must be clean and a good current flow is necessary throughout the entire loop of track.

I've rambled on long enough. 

Regards,

Jonathan

[Trainman203]

Old stock means it's been sitting around god knows how many years oxidizing everywhere electrical.

Jonathon is right about the weight.  One reason the old solid metal 0-27 trains ran so well so consistently was their weight. Besides being something good to brain your brother with😂.

[wrg]

Thank you all for your help. I've tried  everything you suggested and it helped. It does not require as much downward pressure on the back of the tender to get it running. I did order some adhesive lead weights to attach to see if it will help. In the meantime, I need to solder back the wires I pulled loose while fiddling with it 
Thanks again,
I appreciate it,
Rick

[bbmiroku]

So how does it go with the soldering and weighting wrg?

[Terry Toenges]

It's puzzling to me. I've never had one that I had to push on the tender for it to go. The motor stops too and is not spinning? It would seem to be just the wipers on the axles not making a good connection. Is the drive shaft binding somehow to keep it from turning until you push on the tender? I'm just trying to think of possibilities.

[rich1998]

Here are suggestions I have used. I used a oval can motor from a old CD player.
I did it to the Mantua General and IHC 4-4-0 tender drive 4-4-0 for pickups.

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/1879/bachmann_4-4-0/sound/

Mine have run under DCC about ten years ago using a N scale decoder quite well.
This guy shows up here once in a while.
He also has the upgraded American with motor in the boiler and sound in the tender.

Rich

[wrg]

First of all, thanks all for your input. I'm new to this so all help is appreciated. I re-soldered the wiring that I broke ... a pretty sloppy job but the connections are good. I cleaned the tracks, the contacts, bent the contacts in, and added a little weight with tire balancing weights. I was having fairly good results. I am just testing the train so it is on an ez track oval sitting on a flat carpeted surface. I may have intermittent continuity because of that or it may be the cheap black ez standard track. Whenever I get to the final set up. I'll be using the nickel track with gray roadbed.

I did also post a question about the worm gears of a HO Jupiter. I have some of those that I want to convert to Civil War USMRR pieces. I have 2 that the worm gears have come loose. Is this a repairable problem or a a final epitaph?

Thanks as always,

Rick

[rich1998]

If you look close a worm drives a worm gear on the driver. Check the mounting of the worm assembly. The gear mesh has to be kind of close but not binding in any way.
I have never had any issues with mine. Yes, the worm is a gear but does look like a worm.
The Parts pages shows this for thee tender drive locos. I have looked a few times and had mine apart some years ago.
The NWSL page describes Worms and worms gears. Both different. I built gear boxes years ago from their gear planning page.

Rich.

[Terry Toenges]

Rick - Did you check the responses in the General Discussion area about your worm gear? There were a couple different type of worm gear set ups that Bachmann used. I posted a video of one of them from a 4-4-0 that I had. The other two older 4-4-0's that I have had the same set up so I don't have one like in Bachmann's picture to check out. Does yours look like mine?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mcrx5ZUB5C8&feature=youtu.be

[Terry Toenges]

I found a pic of the other type set up. Is this the type you have?