Trolley Motor question

[Mark Oles]

Hi all,

I've got an old trolley (Hershey paint job) and the motor seems to have a dead spot on it.  If I manually advance the rotor, with voltage applied, it runs smoothly.  Applying more voltage does not cause the motor to jump. Looking in, I can see some blue arcing.   I got this unit at auction and from the wheel condition, it appears to have been run a little.

Is there anything I can do to remedy or is my best bet to order a new motor block assembly from Bachmann?

Thanks,

Mark

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Hi Mark,

There is no real way to work on the motor.  I believe you can still get just the motor, but the easy way out is to get the complete motor block.   

Bill

[Mark Oles]

Thanks Bill!

Well, even though I have a spare LGB motorblock that almost fits (it is a little short of wheellbase and a little tall on case), I'm going to give the replacement Bachmann motorblock in the webstore a try.  Why not, they're having a sale right now anyway!

Just for my own information, have these been upgraded over the years or will it be essentially the same motor block that I've got? Any recommendations on extending the life of these units?

[Fred2179]

Hi Mark,

There is no real way to work on the motor.  I believe you can still get just the motor, but the easy way out is to get the complete motor block.   

Bill

There is a thread on LSC about replacing and working on the motor, but it probably won't help - as Bill says, even if you get a motor there's plenty of work to do to fit it.
http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/28736/re-motoring-a-bachmann-4-wheel-trolley?page=1

An LGB motor block might be a good solution.

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Mark,

Yes in later years the streetcar motor block was upgraded.  I have had quite a few opened up, but could never figure out what was different in any of them.  Your Hershey's car came out in 1993, was in the catalog only til 1994.  Not sure how many were made, but they don't show up a lot in the used market.    In 2011 an open trolley came out supposedly with a new and better block and a new Christmass Trolley came out in 2014 with minor lettering changes ans presumably the newer block as well.  I feel it is most likely the latest block for sale now, and the sale on is the best bet.  In my old age I am recommending block or chassis replacement as the way to go.  Replacing this or that little part or gear or motor still leaves you with other gears possibly worn, or risks problems with reassembly issues and such. At least with a replacement you get a completely new motor and drive train all factory new.

Bill

[Mark Oles]

Update:

So I ordered a replacement motor from the parts store. It arrived promptly and I tested it out.  Right out of the box, it worked perfectly.

Notable differences:
- The new block wheels are a darker metal. Not sure if that is good or bad, just different.
- The new block has accommodation for sliding shoes, but does not have them.
- The gearing is still plastic but it appears the interior gears that ride on a pin through the block are a little smaller in width.  This allows them to float a little bit.  I think this is a good thing since the old gears were butting up against the side of the housing.  And with no way to access these except pulling the whole block apart, should reduce internal friction in the drive train.

Similarities:
- the power pick up is via sprung bronze/brass brushes on each of the four wheels.
- both axles are driven
- the motor appears to be the same shape. Not sure about the internals.

I tested the motor block on a set of rollers and it worked fine, forward and backward, even at very low voltages.  Hopefully, that stays the same!  Converting this trolley to run on REVO would be pretty easy.  I intend to operate it on a back and forth line this Christmas season!

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Mark, Glad it worked out and a big thanks for the report!  It will definitely help others looking to overhaul their Trolleys.

Bill

[Hunt]

. . .
I tested the motor block on a set of rollers and it worked fine, forward and backward, even at very low voltages.  Hopefully, that stays the same!  Converting this trolley to run on REVO would be pretty easy.  I intend to operate it on a back and forth line this Christmas season!

Abrupt stops are detrimental to the Bachmann Trolley motor block. Suggest using automatic shuttle reversing circuit product with gradual braking feature.

[Flare]

Abrupt stops are detrimental to the Bachmann Trolley motor block. Suggest using automatic shuttle reversing circuit product with gradual braking feature.

Is that also true for the On30 model?

I've bought some used ones before that were poor runners, and just ordered my first auto-reversing set.

[Loco Bill Canelos]

HI All,

When I was using my reverser from Aristocraft, it came with instructions on how to use resistors to gradually slow it down.  Unfortunately I no longer use it and cant find the instructions.

Hopefully some one will be able to help!

bill

[Greg Elmassian]

I have the manual for the 11090 and 11091 autoreversers. The soft start and slow down are built into the system according to the manual. If someone needs the manual, email me.

Greg

[Mark Oles]

I have a LGB automatic shuttle system which does a gradual speed up and slow down. 

[Fred2179]

Hi Mark,

There is no real way to work on the motor.  I believe you can still get just the motor, but the easy way out is to get the complete motor block.   

Bill

As the Parts dept only sells the whole chassis, I've been working on alternatives.  The same physical motor is used on most of the HO scale diesels. I've been buying the GP50 motor for $19.80. (There's a $15 version in "kit bashing" but it is sold out.)
A word of warning .In theory, the Streetcar is a 12-18V motor, and the GP50 is a 12V. I have no idea whether the internals are identical. Don't run it at full power.

You do need a soldering iron to get the old motor out. The brush gear has a piece that is soldered to the tab in the chassis. Make sure you remove it from the shassis both sides with the motor, so you don't melt anything. And leave the wires (solder them back when you have the motor loose.

You also need a proper gear/wheel puller. I have a large one designed (I think) for Lionel trains. With that you can pull off the 1/2 universals from the GP50 motor, and the worms off the old trolley motor. The shaft in the worm doesn't don't go all the way thru - measure where they are on the old motor before you pull them off. Then you can carefully tap the worms onto the new motor (use a piece of rod in the first worm when you do the second one so that you are tapping the worm onto the shaft, and not pushing the other worm further onto it's shaft.)

The GP50 motor already has 2 wires, so solder them to the tabs that fit back in the chassis where the old motor was attached.