Where to start with DCC?

[dragonbusa]

Hello, I want to get in to DCC. My lay out has two separate lines (EZ Track) all but two bridges. One on each line. I guess about 45 feet of track on each line. I have spent a good deal of work on the tracks and they run very well, smooth never any derails. Not all the joints are soldered but the ones that are hard to reach are and the bridges are. I added one power tap at the far side of the track, the trains don't lose speed any where around the layout. So where do I start with the DCC? I Don't what to buy the latest high dollar set I just want I good starter set that comes complete so I don't have to go look for some other little part that doesn't come with the starter set. Is there a way to run both of my lines with the same starter set? or am I asking to much? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks James.

[Terry Toenges]

I started with Bachmann's E-Z Command system. It's fine if you just want something simple and don't want to program all kinds of new "whistles and bells" into it. I use it to run three separate loops at Christmas time.
I just had to connect the three loops power feeds together and connect them to the E-Z Command wire.
You don't say if your lines are already wired together or if you are using two power packs/controllers. DCC just controls the individual locos on each line with the line power being the same on all lines.

[Nathan]

Two good places o start:

http://dccwiki.com/

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/

Nathan

[jward]

I'd look carefully at your options regarding starter systems. There are some entry level systems that are full featured, and are compatable with more elaborate systems from the same manufacturer should you decide to expand in the future. These are capable of programming decoders, including doing factory default resets when necessary. Other entry level systems have none of these features, other than to reprogram individual locomotive addresses. The prices of entry level systems are reasonably close, in that the difference between a stripped down system and a full featured one may only be $30-40.

Bear in mind that you will either have to install decoders in your existing locomotive fleet, or buy new ones with decoders already installed. Since you seem to be handy with a soldering iron, it may pay you to install your own. In most cases, the installation will not be hard, but it will require disassembly of the locomotive. There are tutorials online from most manufacturers of decoders that detail the installation of their product into specific locomotives. Decoder input wires are colour coded, and standardized, so you can look up the tutorial by locomotive, regardless of whose decoder you choose. For example, you want to install a non sound decoder into a Bachmann GP40. You could use a Digitrax decoder, and install it using directions found on a competitor, say TCS, website.

That said, if you are only running one train each on two seperate loops that don't connect to each other, i am not sure what you expect DCC to do that you aren't already doing.

[dragonbusa]

Well as I understand it , with DCC you can send trains to a side track or on to a yard track and you have all the sound features. just more stuff to play with. I'm a retired trucker, the more stuff I have to play with the better. Thanks for the advise. 

[dragonbusa]

I am running two power supply's and controllers one for each lope.

[rich1998]

Welcome dragonbusa
You could keep one layout for DC until all your locos are DCC.
No idea your experience with soldering but I have learned since about 1954 that soldering is an acquired art, not a necessary evil. I am 78 now.
Most soldering for DCC is a 40 watt soldering pencil. Practice on scrap material.
Some DCC can be plug and play. Some hard wire. Speakers usually soldering two wires.

I started with the MRC2K similar to the EZ Command. Both starter sets. Neither can change CV's.
I gave my set away and went to a NCE Power Cab. I could upgrade it easily to five amps but found no need and not very expensive either.
Many choices out the online. Plan carefully.
If you want to post photos here, look further down into General Questions forum for instructions. You need a photo hosting site. A picture is worth a thousand words.

Rich

[Len]

I'll second Rich on the NCE Power Cab. Reasonably priced and handles the CV setting chores nicely. And if you don't add a booster, you can configure the handheld to show how much current is being drawn by your locos. Another nice thing is if you add a second throttle for a friend to use, it's identical to the original. So no learning curve involved. Unlike a certain other manufacturers add on throttles.

Len

[jward]

My choice was Digitrax Zephyr. Priced about the same as NCE, but allows the use of your two DC power packs as additional throttles. Can be configured to use as a power booster in an expanded system.  Both NCE and Digitrax are well respected names in DCC control. My unit cost me about $200 and allows me to run up to 20 locomotives at a time, not that i'd ever need to. I've never regretted my decision.

As a side note, if you're going to hard wire your decoders you may want to look into the NCE BACH-DSL decoder, which is supposed to replace the light board in Bachmann diesels.

[JLK2707]

https://www.dccconcepts.com/

[rich1998]

dragonbusa

Just be aware, the EZ Command is a ok starter set and can run trains  You can program the loco number but cannot reset a faulty decoder or program CV's. It will control sounds from sound decoders from what I was told.
You could Google

DCC controller for trains reviews
You will probably not need more that five amps for your layout. My Power Cab is two amps and good for three sound locos.

Rich