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Lubricating a Spectrum Steamer WITH PICS!

Started by jonathan, April 28, 2010, 10:13:34 PM

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GG1onFordsDTandI

This should be copied to FAQs  8).
Ive often thought that area (or a new one) could be expanded (created) to include only some of the better "how to" posts. Maybe "posts and edits by approval only" to keep it leaner and more reference manual in nature. In theory the search should get you what you want, but that's not always so easy, especially for new folk. 

MarkInLA

#16
Jonathan, many many thanks for pics  and explanations of shell removal and lubing.
I successfully completed my very first lube of my HO Connie due to this !! I know not why this isn't part of the Spectrum CD : " Maintenance " (main page title) " Steamer shell removal, and Drive Train lubrication " ( not to be confused with steamer-clam shells !). Great post !! Now comes my mogul...I'm sure it's quite similar.
Not sure who brought it up (above) but, yeah those decoder wires are quite pesky on this loco! I and several others experienced the tender lifts up its front truck due to this !!
Note that if you do put drawbar pin in 2nd hole the tender is then overly far from engine, a tad toyish
Mark ;D

jonathan

Thanks to everyone for the nice comments.  Hard to believe I posted this almost four years ago. 

As an aside, somewhere in in the HO forum, I also posted about replacing the cog drive belt on Spectrum Steamers.  It is a universal part that fits the 2-8-0, 4-8-2, and 2-10-0.  Just sayin'...

Regards,

Jonathan

MarkInLA

#18
Jonathan, I was just gazing  again at your post here for the halibut. Noticed your air pump piston rods are not chrome colored. Mine had one but not both...If it's important to you, hit them with chrome enamel paint .  Nice little detail that's easy to overlook..

electrical whiz kid

Jonathan;
Nicely done!  Is there any way I could down-load this post to a CD?

Rich C.

guy57

Quote from: jonathan on April 30, 2010, 12:25:13 PM
Car Guy,

Breaking in does help smooth the engine out.  Here are a couple of other suggetions:

One of the more common issues with the Connie is the low hanging wiring.  I once thought I had a serious problem with jerkiness.  It so happended that the cluster of wires that come out the bottom have little rubber ring things wrapped around them.  They were catching my track nails (especially in reverse).  A quick adjustment solved that.  I moved the wires from the left side of the draw bar to the right.  You can also solve it by moving the tender post to the farther back hole in the draw bar.  

Speaking of wiring, make sure the plugs to the tender are seated properly.  When new, it took me a couple of minutes of checking to make sure they were clicked into place.  I never, ever unplug them.  I even "kitbashed" the black box, so the engine could be stored all put together.

The most delicate part of the machinery is the contact wipers resting on the drive wheels.  It doesn't take much to get these kinked so they don't make good contact with the wheels.  I adjusted one with a couple of straight pins (working slowly and carefully).  It is not too difficult to get them back into shape.  Though I found it a little hair raising, due to the small and delicate nature of these tiny parts.  I think, in the production phase, these are the easiest parts to get mangled in assembly.  It would be difficult to see during a quality check.  They are hard to see in any case.

I haven't figured out how to clean the wipers, yet.  I may try wiping some 600 grit sandpaper in between the wheel and the wiper (grit side to the wiper).  I'm not that brave, yet.

Lastly, clean track and wheels are a must, if you want cool runnings.

I'm not saying any of these things are causing your Consolidation to run poorly, just some suggestions from things I've played with.

Regards,

Jonathan

Jonathan, good post. If you're referring to the wipers on the tender, just remove 1 wheel and you can slide the wiper off and clean it with alcohol. Remember to put the wheel and axle back in the way it came out, as 1 wheel is insolated and 1 carries the current to the axle and wiper. Both wheels and axles on the truck have to be oriented the same way...check with a meter if your uncertain. good luck

Len

I cut 3x5 index cards into strips about 1/4" wide and 3" long to clean between wipers and wheels. Give it a spritz of contact cleaner, slide between the contact and wheel, and you should be good to go. Sandpaper, even 1000 grit crocus cloth, is way too abrasive.

Len
If at first you don't succeed, throw it in the spare parts box.