Wiring a turnout switch

[Truck5]

As a relatively new model railroader, I bought what I thought would be a nice fit for me. DCC,  I'm not sure I care for it but that's the controller I now have..I want to wire a few turnouts that are not DCC. My EZ command controller has no accessory port for non DCC turnouts.  Question, Can I power the turnout using the rerailer? I notice it has two power ports on each side of the rerailer...I understand that DCC sends full time power to the track, is this AC or DC current?
If that is not an option what is next step to wire these turnouts if I can"t use my controller or rerailer...
Im guessing a separate power supply? Transformer? how many volts would that have to be..Recommendations appreciated..
The ends of the red wire have flat terminals the other end has the standard plug type that goes to the switch....A wall wart does not have the proper set up for this red wire

[Len]

You have to cut the plug, if it has one, off the end of the 'Wall-wart' wires, and the spade connectors off the end of the red wires. Then splice the red wires to the 'wall-wart' wires. You can do this with wire-nus, or by soldering them together. If you solder them together, cover the splices with heat-shrink tubing. Or you can look for a 'wall-wart' that has screw terminals, and connect the red wire space terminals directly. Something like this:


The 'wall-wart' should be between 14-18V and rated at list 1amp (1,000ma). It doesn't matter if it's AC or DC. I get the best performance with 16V.

You asked this same question in the HO forum earlier. It's generally not considered polite to ask the same question in muliple forums.

Len

[Truck5]

Great info, Once I posted the question I realized I would have to cut the end of the wall wart... One thing, the gentleman at the hobby store said only power my turnouts with AC not DC as they will eventually burn the switch out...thoughts?

[Len]

The gentleman at the hobby shop has ready too many instruction sheets saying to connect the turnouts to the AC Accessory terminals on the power pack (if it has them). DC works just fine. I prefer it because you get less 'buzz' from the turnout solenoids. Just so long as the power supply is between 14-18 volts, and rated for at least 1 amp.

What burns out the solenoids is leaving them on for too long, whether powered by AC or DC. Which is why a lot of people like to use a "capacitor discharge" unit, to make sure the power spike only lasts a fraction of a second. You have to use AC power with a CD unit.

Len

[rich1998]

About twenty five years ago I made a CDU with a good size electrolytic cap, about eight thousand microfarad, and a couple resistors. Operated off of 16 vdc from old power pack. Fired my turnouts nice. You can Google capacitor discharge unit for may AC and DC versions.

The Circuitron Snapper is a popular version you can buy. It will fire a few at one time. It operates of of AC.
CDU's prevent burning out twin coils. Many have burnt out over the years until the CDU came along.
Switch held down too long.
Note that AC is coming in, DC is firing the coil.

Rich

[Bucksco]

https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&zenid=el14qb0lbovh9pml6pirmpgfn5&keyword=44219

[Truck5]

Ok well as I wait for that "new" product a new situation has occurred. I used a wall wart, DC powered output, 12 volts - 1 amp....   now my DCC locomotives won't stop when signaled to do so...They slow to a crawl but keep going..Did I screw up the locomotives digital coding?
They were working fine prior to wiring the new switches..  I should note I have four turnouts, two are DCC controlled and the two new ones are wired switches  (wall wart)
Thanks for bearing with me on this...