Metal Coach Railings

[Stokerman]

Here's a question about the metal coach railings that came on the later production J&S coaches, combines, baggage and observation cars. Are those railings a simple drop in replacement for the plastic railings on the earlier production cars?

Anyone here ever changed them out?

I have a small fleet of the early passenger sets that I'd like to upgrade if it is a no hassle switch-over.

[the Bach-man]

Dear Stoker,
They drop right in, but I glue them in place with Dr, Mike's CA.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[Stokerman]

Dear Stoker,
They drop right in, but I glue them in place with Dr, Mike's CA.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

Hey Bach-man

Many THANKS for the quick reply!

I'll be counting up my coaches and placing an order as soon as I get the total.

While I've got your ear ... have you any thoughts on the Shay graphite lube thread I have going nearby?

[the Bach-man]

Dear Stoker,
I've never tried it, but it sounds like it might work...
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[Stokerman]

A bit of an update:

I have received several sets of the metal railings now and have installed a couple of cars worth, an observation car and a combine. They look great and are properly spaced to drop right in just as the Bach-man said.

However, there are a few aspects that should be considered before going forward with the installations I found. 

First, the brake wheels do not fit on the brake shaft for the baggage and coach type railing as received, and the metal castings are a bit brittle and unforgiving, so go carefully here. It is probably best to install the brake wheel before mounting the railing, and a little filing on the sides of the shaft, or a slight opening of the brake wheel hole will both work to achieve a fit. Only very little metal needs to be removed from either surface, and if you do it just right, the brake wheel will "pop" on and be able to turn, but will not easily come back off, which I think is perfect!

Second, I did not replace the 90 degree hand grabs that mount on the ends of the body itself, on either side of the door, as the replacements only have two attachment points, one on each end, while the original plastic hand grabs have two attachments along the top of the grab, and one at the bottom. Thus using the metal replacements would leave an attachment hole open behind the middle of the top run of the grab rail. I note that my one factory made coach that came with metal railings has some kind of a stand off at that intermediate attachment point, but nothing like that comes with the replacement railings. In point of fact, the plastic body mounted grab rail looks fine, and doesn't sag like the ones on the end sills do, so really doesn't need replacing from that stand point, and though slightly off of the bright color of the metal replacements, they are that way on the factory version that I have as well, so it ends up looking just the same, and better than if replaced leaving the hole showing.

I chose to use Zap-a-gap to mount my railings, and it seems to have worked fine, but I wonder if something like Shoe-Goo or a silicone caulking might not work better. Whatever you use, make sure that you square up the end sill railings and make them look to be even, before your bonding agent sets up completely, or you'll end up with something that doesn't look all that much better than the plastic you replaced.

Do remember that these metal railing pieces are a bit brittle, so don't expect to be able to bend them one way, and then bend them back, because they'll just snap if you do.

I must say, to my eye, they are well worth the price and the effort to replace the original plastic railings, on the end sills at least, and I'm quite glad I've done it!