Swapping Body shells on steam and diesel models

[Barry Karlberg]

Hi Bach Mann and modelers:

I have a couple of questions.

1. Can the tender shell from a 2-10-2, with backup light be swapped for a tender shell from a 2-8-0? Are they the same length or is the 2-10-2 shell longer?
2. Are the chassis's for a GP38 the same as a GP40 so body shells can be swapped?

Thanks, in advance for any inforamtion.

Barry

[Bucksco]

Sorry but the answer to both questions is no.....

[Barry Karlberg]

Thanks, for the responses.

So, just to clarify the 2-10-2 tender is longer than the 2-8-0 one?

I need to make sure if I order a differnt road name, body shell for my pair of Sound GP40s that I specify Sound units?

Barry

[ACY]

Keep in mind the tender that shipped with the 2-8-0 and 2-10-2 varied by roadname sometimes. I have a Bachmann 2-8-0 with a Vandy tender and one with a USRA tender for instance.
Also GP 40 shells are interchangeable (last I knew) with other GP 40 shells but they will not fit on a GP 38 correctly and vice versa.

[Barry Karlberg]

Thanks, ACY. Much appreciated along with the previous responses from the Yard Master and Jon.

I realize that the 2-8-0s came with a variety of tender style through the years. But I model the IC (the first railroad I worked for in the 60s) which the 2-8-0 is a close model of. I was hoping to swap one of my 2-8-0 tender shells for the 2-10-2 tender shell to obtain a tender backup light and then wire it accordingly. But didn't know if it was too long to fit the 2-8-0 tender chassis.

Thanks, too for the GP40 info. ... I'll figure on purchasing a pair of UP shells to alternate with my NS ones.

Barry

[rogertra]

I frequently swap tender bodies but it's important to keep the same tender chassis that came with the locomotive.   I sometimes swap locomotive bodies plus the tender body, especially when I buy a new loco that is sound equipped.  I remove a weathered and extra detailed loco and tender body from a non sound loco and place the bodies on the new sound equipped loco and tender chassis.  You will notice that not all tender chassis have common connections.

Sadly, since the demise of the Spectrum range, my steam loco purchases have stopped.

Cheers.

Roger T.

[Barry Karlberg]

Hi Roger:

Yes I do the same because as point out the plugs don't always match the receptacles.

Care to share any our your engine/tender swaps and have you installed backup tender lights?

Thanks,

Barry

[rogertra]

Hi Roger:

Yes I do the same because as point out the plugs don't always match the receptacles.

Care to share any our your engine/tender swaps and have you installed backup tender lights?

Thanks,

Barry

Barry.

At present I do not have a photo sharing site since Photobucket got all snotty and began to charge for their "service."

I'm still trying, after all this time, to get my photos back.

Any suggestions on a free photo sharing site?

Cheers

Roger T.

[Barry Karlberg]

Hi Roger:

Nope no suggestions on a photo sharing site. I post most my stuff on MRH or Proto Groups sites.

If you care to email, me off lne we can exchange email addresses.

Mine is [email protected]

Thanks,

Barry

[Terry Toenges]

For photos I use Facebook. It's free. You don't have to interact with anyone or "friend" anyone. Just use it for your photos. Once you load it up on there, it's just a matter of copying the address here between the photo tags.

[ElectricFan]

My experience is that you can swap out GP40 and GP38-2 shells on the same chassis and I have. 

You can also swap out GP30 with GP35 shells on the same chassis (shorter chassis than the GP40 and GP38-2 chassis), and I've done that as well.

I'm not sure if this applies to the sound equipped locomotives.

Also, depending on the age of the chassis you might have to modify the mounting holes in the shell, but if you have to do that, you may find that you get a tight friction fit -- or at least that's been my experience. 

[rogertra]

For photos I use Facebook. It's free. You don't have to interact with anyone or "friend" anyone. Just use it for your photos. Once you load it up on there, it's just a matter of copying the address here between the photo tags.

See if this works.  :-

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154955244776536&set=rpd.599556535&type=3&theater

Seems you just get the URL not the actual photo.

Thanks anyway.

[Barry Karlberg]

Thanks, Electric Fan for the clarification on the diesel body shells. Mine are both sound engines so I'll need to remember this.

Barry

[Barry Karlberg]

Thanks, Terry for the Facebook suggestion...I'll look into it.

Barry

[Terry Toenges]

 I can see the photo just by clicking the link.
To get the picture to show up on here:
Click on your photo so it opens in it's own window.
Right click on the photo and then "view image".
When the image comes up by itself, then right click and "copy image location".
Then "paste" that between the image tags on here.