Removal of Circuit Board

[russ daley]

This one I did do a search on.....

Can the circuit boards in the Spectrum 4-6-0 and 2-8-0 be removed and hard wiired for DCC Operation? Perhaps this should not be within the process of troubleshooting a problem (which is want I'm thinking) but I just wanted clarification.

Thanks all,
Russ

[SteamGene]

Yes.  Rich can give you more information.
Gene

[richG]

I removed the pc board on a Spectrum Richmond 4-4-0 and just solder spliced the decoder wires. I insulated each wire with 1/16" shrink tube. I needed to add a 1k resistor because the engine has an LED. I have an advantage as I have been an electronic tech for many years. Your mileage might vary.

Rich

[r.cprmier]

Russ;
As a total proponent of the "KISS" philosophy and have done enough DCC installs to feel a bit competent,  I now remove all the boards that come with an engine, and do hard-wire.  There is no need for them in reality, if you are installing decoders, especially if you are going with sound-and a lot of guys are, given the advances in the technology and increasingly competitive pricing as of late.

When/if you do this, do double check your wiring-and I do mean check!   
The wiring is essentially two leads that are your feeders, two to the motor, and two (or more?) to lighting.  Use a reliable VOM (volt/ohm/ammeter) to assist you in this, have a good 35-watt soldering pencil; and if you do not know how to solder, you will learn-this is essential! Learn to do it well, and it will pay off on spades.  Heat-shrink tubing is available in quantity at reasonable cost at most electrical supply houses; Ideal Industries markets it.

I recommend Tony's trains anyway as both an info source and a parts supplier.  Tony has both himself, and his staff, that are very knowledgeable and up to date, plus generally willing to talk you through a problem/question.   Whichever way you choose to go, good luck.

RIch

[russ daley]

Thanks for the repies.....

I have a Spectrum 2-8-0 (DCC) that ain't running, I mean it does nothing. (I have changed decoders, checked wiring the best I could) Once confirmed that the board could be removed, I thought I would attempt the task and see what I could learn. I have the tools and have hardwired decoders before. Didn't know about the resistor though......

Thanks again,
Russ,       

[r.cprmier]

It sounds like it is time for the three ates:  isolate, locate, and eliminate.

THis is how it works:  Find the two motor leads and isolate them from any plugs, etc; attach a power source to them (like a 12 volt transformer by MRC); and run it up.  If noting happens, you have a problem with the motor or the connections; if the motor runs well, then your problem lies somewhere else-like connections.

This is why I rant and rave about direct wiring a decoder to the leads, rather than go through that block.   Every decoder I have ever seen comes with some sort of wiring diagram, and directions.  The less things in your path, the less things that can trip you up.

RIch

[russ daley]

Rich,

Amen to that brother......

Russ,

[russ daley]

I just woke up.....

Which wire (what color wire) do you install the 1k resistor?

Thanks

[rich1998]

It makes no difference. Many like to use the cathode lead. I do.

Rich

[russ daley]

Thanks Rich...

[russ daley]

After all these years...gonna do this...just need a refresher...

Engine is Bachmann Spectrum HO 2-8-0: Has two pins...one pin has a red and black wire...the other pin has two yellows, one red and one black.

The question is...do I tie the two pin connector (Red and Black) to the corresponding tender pickup (either front or back) together then tie into Pins 8 (Red Right) and 4 (Black Left) ?

thanks

     

[rich1998]

After all these years...gonna do this...just need a refresher...

Engine is Bachmann Spectrum HO 2-8-0: Has two pins...one pin has a red and black wire...the other pin has two yellows, one red and one black.

The question is...do I tie the two pin connector (Red and Black) to the corresponding tender pickup (either front or back) together then tie into Pins 8 (Red Right) and 4 (Black Left) ?

thanks

     

Now you are getting confusing. Do you mean the two pin and four pin plugs between the loco and tender? Please be more clear.

RFich

[russ daley]

Darn....

Yes...I met to say the two plugs between the engine and tender. One plug two pins, one plug four pins...

Sorry,
Russ

[rich1998]

It has been some years.
I remember the two pin were for DCC pickups from the loco.
The four pin, two for the motor and two for the headlight. All the wires were yellow.
I had to trace with ohm meter. Easy to do.
By the way, what looks like two green resistors are 4.5 micro Henry ferrite chokes. Zero resistance. No resistor has those kind traces. I have worked with components since 1955. I have an Inductance meter also.
I just cut the caps. Those components form a tuned circuit to satisfy the UK. Bachmann sells a lot of DCC locos, different type, on the other side of the Pond.

RIch

[russ daley]

Thanks for the replies Rich...I found a nice TCS pictorial and with my multimeter was successful on the wiring and programming. Other issues surfaced like I must of dropped this baby sometime ago as I found some body damage and rod linkage damage. If others are reading this post...yes...you tie the engine rail pickup wires to the tender rail pickup wires and then tie into the correct decoder wire.